Need alignment spec recommendations
 

So I just installed Megan coilovers and will be doing the first alignment on it. The suspension does not have front adj. camber plates but I did buy front camber bolts (rear is all stock).

I mainly do spirited city driving with occasional autox (only 3 times last year and none this year yet).

I have heard some negative camber would be beneficial but how much in the front and rear exactly should I tell the shop? I plan on 0 toe, is castor adjustable on our cars?

Thanks.

what is your goal? just street? track? it really depends on what you want.
go from -1.5 all around and see how you like it

Like I stated, mostly daily driving on the street with occasional autox.

-1.5-2 all around sounds like a good start.

You can get nearly 2.0 degrees rear camber with Subaru crash bolts. Subaru sells these to correct rear alignment problems.

It has been suggested rear camber should be initially setup with 0.5 less negative camber than front given the different wheel geometries (Mac strut vs upper/lower control arm). E.g. Front camber -3.2, rear camber -2.7.

"You can get nearly 2.0 degrees rear camber with Subaru crash bolts. Subaru sells these to correct rear alignment problems"
Rear camber with crash bolts? Not eccentric bushings? And it's Subaru, not Whiteline? rear alignment problems?
My conviction that he is trolling just grows stronger by each post.

I have a staggered setup, would this still hold true for me?

I do not know but I am thinking that given the differing roll rates front and rear (I am suggesting the more grip at the rear will cause more roll at the rear) you may want a different delta f/r camber.
Let me emphasise this is just conjecture on my part.

The proper way to set camber is with a pyrometer.

Just get something "in the green". It's clear performance isn't your intent.

I never claimed it was, majority city/hwy driving.

Seconding this.

Note that rear camber isn't adjustable on the stock hardware, you need either adjustable rear lower control arms or eccentric bushings so you are going to get what you get in the rear without one of those.

The suggestions for a bit less camber in the rear than the front is because the front is macpherson strut and the rear is multilink. As a result, the rear gets more camber under compression than the front does. To adjust for this, most people aim for around 0.5 degrees more in the front than the rear to even it out.

Sounds good, thanks fellas.

Yeah, that was me keeping it short not criticizing. I'm a proponent of more front camber than is green, but it's not required.

That sounds to me like much more grip needs to be added in front relative to rear. Be it in way of extra camber, lesser swaybar or whatever. Of course my real choice would be to not get staggered wheel/tire setup in first place, to not have to workaround it. Even selling staggered set of used wheels is much harder as there are way less potential buyers who would want such.