FRS struggling to start (video)
 

Hi all, I've searched for this topic but could not find anything very specific. It is a 2013 with 110k Km's, I've recently had the battery and spark plugs done. During cold start the car will start normally or if i turn it off and turn it on again shortly it will turn on fine as well. Although, there seems to be a point in time after the car is shut off when this problem occurs. The car will do this with a full tank of gas and the car has been using Shell 91 V power gas since its been owned. The car has never not started from this. I have not yet gone to the dealership about it.

video: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuJw2xKDlg8"]FRS starting problem - YouTube[/ame]

Thank you :)

Welcome to our forum ....... :clap:


What power mods do you have if any .. ??

Do you have an aftermarket tune .. ??

You say you have a new battery ... ??

Are the battery terminals clean and tight .. ??

(I ask this because it sounds like a weak battery)

Is the connection from the battery to the starter making good contact .. ??

It almost sounds like a weak starter solenoid ..... :iono:


Come back .......:)


humfrz

OP, after you answer @humfrz questions I have some. First an observation. That is not the starter or battery. Plenty strong.

It is firing and then stalling/hiccupping briefly.

1. Did you have the issue before you changed the plugs?

2. If no did you start having it immediately after?

3. Will ask to be absolutely certain - CEL?

Check the mounting bolts and plug connection on the Direct Injection computer under bonett, its probably removed to get to plugs it gets its earth via mounting bolts if they are not all their or loose rearly weird stuff happens

@humfrz no power mods, stock tune, new battery, battery connections are fine, havent checked starter connection
@Ultramaroon

yes, it did happen before i changed the plugs and it never threw the code but when scanned i had the "starting malfunction" code P1602

Mine was battery. After a few times of that it turned out to be red terminal loose+battery charge low.

This is a tough one to get at without techstream or some other logging. It seems too predictable to be a loose connection.

Do you wait a couple seconds for the fuel pump, or do you crank the engine right away? Not saying either is correct. I'm just fishing for clues.

@Ultramaroon
Yes I always let it sit for a couple seconds on on before I fire it up

I'll be sure to check my battery connections but I'm pretty positive it's not the battery.

I don't think so either. This is a head scratcher.

For problems cold starting, but it starts fine after, you're going to have to find out how your fuel rail is holding pressure. It could be that over time the injectors (or an injector) is not holding pressure very well and is letting fuel into the combustion chamber.

There's a lot of things that can cause this, but it's a starting point.

I've experienced similar and so have others, imo it was entirely due to how I started it, giving the car a few seconds in the 'ON' position totally solved the 'issue' it's been a long time since I've had a scare, mine would seem to crank and crank and crank before firing. Again, not accessory position, not just key in the ignition, you should be able to hear the fuel system prime before you go to start the car.

I can't tell from the video if you're waiting long enough, if the key is in the 'ON' position before the video starts then it probably isn't the issue, but if the key isn't in 'ON' before the video starts that would be my first guess.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25822
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102059
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18874

It's habit for me now to put the key in the ignition, turn it to 'on', fasten my seatbelt, take in my surroundings and THEN start the car.

Edit: Definitely more of a problem when the car is 'warm' as opposed to dead cold or hot for some reason.
Lots of people say "No I'm doing it right, Geez" when they're not, no shame in it.

OP, @guybo has an excellent point. If one of your injectors is leaky it could bleed out slowly. This would explain why immediate start and cold start (after the cylinder flood has drained into the crankcase :( ) are both good.

The dealer has tools to monitor fuel rail pressure. I really think guybo's onto something here.

have you figured out the problem yet? My car starting having starting issues today after owning this car for 2 years.