Break in for new short block? ECU?
 

My short block and ECU are being replaced under warranty. Should I be going easy on it per the manual? Does that only apply to new cars presumably broken in from the factory and not my brand new short block? Or should I abuse it to"teach" the ECU to run more aggressive trims during that critical <100 mile period when it will permanently save driving habit information with it's "handshake" with the engine? I'll be tuning on e85/flex fuel after I'm confident the dealership didn't fuck anything up

New short block? Break it in like a new car.

So the toyobaru manuals' recommendation?

What happened to the first engine?

Spun a bearing> contaminated oil> clogged cam control valves> somehow damaged the cam gear???> ecu stuck thinking the cams don't have enough oil pressure even though they do. There weren't any noticeable symptoms indicating the engine was damaged except I noticed a ticking/tapping noise. But these cars make all kinds of noises so I don't know when it happened. I've never over revved or boosted so I blame mechanical failure. Apparently quite a few 2013s spun bearings according to Tcoat

Depends on what engine break in philosophy you subscribe to.

Personally, I subscribe to break in oil and gentle driving up to temp, then lots of 100% load varied driving for 100 miles or so, changing the oil, THEN following OEM break in procedures.

Gotta seat those rings! :)

This is why I'm asking. That the opposite of what the manual recommends. My tuner says to follow the manual.

My opinion is that if you trust your car to your tuner, follow their advise. If he's the guy tuning it, and it's his arse on the line if something goes wrong, then you can count on him being confident in that.

I've got 80k on the built motor on my forester by giving it as close to 100% load as I could give it, as long as I could give it with BP break in oil.

Well I guess it's not a question of if the manual's break in will work, it's if a different approach is "better"

My 13frs has 3k on entire new motor. Original spun bearing and was replaced with a short block which failed due to bad assembly. Toyota stood by it though. New motor has much less valvetrain noise than the original.