Grimmspeed EBCS
 

Searched around but couldnt find specifics.

I know the EBCS plugs into the blue solonoid plug at the bottom, driver side of the intake manifold and how to do the tubing. My question is that my tuner recommended I remove some of the old solonoid to extend the wires so i could mount the EBCS closer to the turbo (greater accuracy).

Just wondering where other people have the EBCSes mounted? How close to the turbo? Will it really make that much of a difference?

It seems like to extend the cable Id have to remove the intake manifold completely...which is a huge PITA. Is there a cable I can buy that can extend the connection?

This E85 upgrade project has me :mad0259:

Its 6 bolts to remove the intake I can have it off in 15 minutes. The drivers side has a plastic wire loom that has to be opened and the wires will slip off the intake flange. Its tight but doable. The passenger side, use a long extension and snake it thru the wires to get the back bolt. The rest is straight forward, also while your there put spring clamps on all the hoses you will be glad you did because under boost they will blow off.... I removed the solenoid valve under the intake it's just one nut and its out of the way. Good luck it not that bad of a job just take your time and enjoy.....


EDIT


Option 2
Cut and extend the wires on the EBCS and plug it in. Spencer Fabrication in NH makes a bad ass vacuum block that has several ports get one and you job just became 20 minutes. Plus you can run braided stainless lines..

Thanks for the reply! Definitely like Option 2 as backup plan but it sounds like a better idea to remove the solonoid and deal with those clamps now.

One removing the manifold... how the hell do I remove this plug!? It's the injector harness plug I think (not the plugs that go to the injectors themselves, but the one that is clipped to the top of the fuel rail)

http://i.imgur.com/Zf13k25.png

Squeeze the sides and wiggle it off. Sometimes it helps to push in then squeeze

So I managed to get the evap solenoid off and repurposed the vacuum line to be the "port 1" in this picture.

http://i59.tinypic.com/2vvjty1.jpg

However, I'm wondering if I have created a vacuum leak in the process. I flashed a tune, which, admittedly is a calibration map so not really meant to run great...but I'm having a bit of a surging idle (bounces back and forth between 1000 and 1500). I also noticed on my AEM boost gauge/failsafe that my vacuum pressure is about half of what I *THINK* it used to be. It used to hang out around -30 and now it's at about -15. Could be nothing since I could just completely be remembering that wrong.

What I'm wondering is the evap fuel line itself, that to solenoid connected up to...could that be causing a vacuum leak if uncapped?

I'm talking about this guy circled in red

http://i.imgur.com/O2mJLom.jpg

(ignore the yellow arrow as this is just someone else's picture I repurposed)

My failsafe gauge reports -19 at idle. Warm-ups it's like -14. Full boost its a steady 8 psi WOT. I'm using a 7psi wastegate spring at sea level.

I found every unclamped hose coming from the intake including the intake to crank case will boost or vacuum leak. Clamp everything!

Well, for anyone who finds this in the future I hope this helps!

I searched and searched for what seemed like a vacuum leak (surging idle, car would die with any amount of throttle). I happened to get a code thrown, P1235 (high pressure fuel pump circuit) which ended up leading me to the solution.

Since I was mainly just seeing if I could get the car to run I hadn't put everything all the way back together yet (strut braces, fuel rail covers, etc.) just in case I had to fix something else. Turns out, if you don't have the DI Driver (the black box on the passenger side that has four cables running into it), mounted on the engine block, it won't be grounded (via the bolts) and your car will run like shit.

Once I bolted even just the bottom bolt of that DI driver back on, it started up and idled fine.

If you don't have clearance to install the injectors cover on the DI ECU side, I'd cut it so the ECU has 2 bolt locations and not just the engine blocks 1.

I can post a picture of cut bracket if requested.

Finish putting your car back together before driving it!

It seemed to mount just fine. I am just using the stock fuel rail and ID1000s though.

Where does port one go exactly?