Rear Driver's Side Tick
 

I posted another thread relating to this issue, and went to the dealer a couple days after, fearing that it could be my ball bearings or worst, my CV joints. First issue I had with my dealer was that they would charge me 150 just to take a look at my car and the guy that helped me out flat out told me that it probably wasn't gonna be covered by the warranty. So I left and took a look at my axle nuts, since it was reported that some nuts don't come fully torqued from factory. Went to autozone to rent a torque wrench and buy a 32mm socket to torque the nut properly, 140 lb/ft. After I did, my passenger rear wheel stopped making the clicking/clunk noise, but it was still present in my driver side rear. Here's a two videos showing the noise. First ones when I rock the wheel itself and the second is when I rock the front wheels, passenger and driver's side. Also here's a pic of the axle nut. Should mention that I have a set of wheel locks on all my wheels, after someone stole my stock ones. Thoughts on the problem?

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3s25W5-QAY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3s25W5-QAY[/ame]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDrg10C0ekg"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDrg10C0ekg[/ame]

Your vids are posted as "private".........:(

If your car is still under warranty, I'd suggest you go to another dealer.


humfrz

I've had a similar "tick", on both sides. If you do a search, I had a pretty involved thread documenting this "rear clicking".

First off, if you re-torqued the axle nuts with out undoing the crimp, you didn't do anything since those things are meant to keep them from rotating. Its usually suggested that you replace these instead, which I did, but did not fix my problem.

Another common source was the e-brake, so have that looked at also. There were some folks who resolved this issue by having the tech re-lube or readjust their e-brakes.

As humfrz mentioned, try working with another dealer. I spent a good deal of time getting bounced from one dealer to another due to my aftermarket suspension. Ultimately, I found a dealer who was able to warranty both axles, which turned out to be both broken(one inner joint failure, the other an outer).

Best of luck

@BigFatFlip - is there a dealer in the Bay Area that doesn't suck? Where did you go?

The dealer I went to mentioned that it would cost $150 to even check the vehicle, which if the problem was covered under the powertrain warranty, I wouldn't be charged. So at this point it seems like a gamble, do I pay $150 to have the a car inspection, which may cost even more if the problem isn't covered by the powertrain warranty, or do I go with changing the axle nuts myself (which may not even be the issue) and hope that that would solve my problems?



I want to think that its just my axle nuts, but after reading your thread I'm worried that it might be my axles. Unfortunately, my drivetrain is done, so I'm gonna be left with a huge bill :/

Axle nuts were $5 a piece, I'd say $10 vs $150 is worth the gamble. I did and it didn't fix the problem, but it was worth it. Different dealers deal with warranty claims differently, some charge to look at it and some don't, find one that doesn't and give them your business (dealers make money off of warranty claims too)

True, that's what I'm planning on doing today or tomorrow. Is there a DIY guide showing the replacement of the axle nut, I'm new to car mechanics so I absolutely don't know what I'd be doing if I were to do it myself. Tried researching it a bit and found no accurate DIY for beginners. Is it literally just undoing the crimp using a flathead and replacing it with a new nut and crimping it again, or is there more to it?

Here is @BigFatFlip 's referenced thread.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95702

Although the last time I messed with an axle nut ..... the axle had a hole for a cotter pin ..... :) ...... I would venture to say, yes, undo the crimp, remove the nut, replace the nut, tighten and re-crimp.

(if the wheel falls off ...... I was wrong ...... :()


humfrz

I believe there isn't a specific DIY for it here, but I think there were a couple of posts that pretty much detailed the steps for it, but kinda hard to find. I've watched a buddy replace his axles before, so kinda had an idea.

Here's what I did:

-put e-brake on
-jack up rear of the car and put on jack stands (you will be cranking on this hard). Remove wheel
-using a flat head screw driver (small enough to fit in the slot on the axle) and a rubber mallet, un-bend the staked axle nut by hammering it into the slot. The slot should be ramped so the more you push the screw driver in, the more it "wedges" up to it to un bend it.
-Remove the axle nut. Make sure to use a breaker bar and not your torque wrench, you might also need to use an extension on the handle (piece of pipe or something) to get a longer lever arm. I had to use my jack's lever to bust mine loose.
-Install new axle nut, make sure to add some anti-sieze just in case you have to do it again down the line.
-Torque down to spec, then using a punch or a screw driver, re-stake the axle nut
-sit back, revel in your accomplishment and have a beer

Hope that helps!

Let's jump back to some basics here before arm chair diagnosing to deeply.
Mods to suspension?
Mods to engine?
Mods to wheels?


If all stock then yes some of the previous info is probably it. If modded then a whole new set of possibilities appear.

Not quite sure when you say there's a hole for the cotter pin in the axle. The couple of YouTube videos that I saw just remove the nut and the discs stay on, of course with the wheel removed. Just ordered my axle nut for $20, $10 each. Bit overpriced if you ask me

He was talking old school not ours. That was what they had before the crimp.
Are you all stock?

Yes, for now. Planning on adding Nameless Axleback and maybe a mid pipe when I save up enough

when replacing the axle nuts, how are you guys undoing the indentation? I placed a screwdriver there and hammered at it and it's not budging out :/