Will -1 camber get rid of this tire poke?
 

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I want the top of the tire to be flush, will -1 camber accomplish this? Thanks.

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No, thats a lot of poke. It will tuck the top in a little but the middle of the tire will not change and the bottom will poke out more.

edit: read updated post, I would say 3-4 maybe to get where you need, but I am no expert on "hella-flush" hahaha

whats your wheel specs and tires? that "looks" like something similar to a 9" width with 245 tires, and on stock suspension...

245 with 18x8.5 +30, anything I can do do the suspension to reduce poke? Doesn't need to be flush I just don't want to be kicking up rocks and ruining my paint/hitting people behind me.

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I don't care if it pokes out at the bottom, it's mostly the top I care about for aesthetics.

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Just by eyeballing it I would guess -3 is were you should start

You will likely need more negative camber. Add camber, possibly lower it (if the height bothers you, aesthetically), add mud flaps.

Isn't -3 a lot? I don't want to wear on my tires excessively. I also don't need hella flush, almost flush will do.

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lowering+camber is gonna be the best you can do

-3 is on the higher side, but its doable.

Toe has more of an effect on tire wear. Just hit up the track/canyon to keep things even.

Why does lowering a car tuck the wheels in?

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I would say that approx -2 camber will help pull in the top as much as possible and still won't promote excessive shoulder wear. Once you pass 2 ish and don't flog the car at a track, you will start to notice the uneven wear on a McPherson type front suspension setup. I got 17x9 +35 and got neg 1.7 up front with a single set of camber bolts (with lowering springs) and it made it much better. I'm not as familiar with your wheel width and offset however...

You would need to have different wheels / tires to run less camber and not poke.

You're changing the suspension geometry and the control arm angle relative to vehicle as it sits lower. The lower you go, the more uncorrected neg camber you'll get