Brake Fade/Cooling?
 

I plan to do a few HPDE events every year, and will be upgrading to stainless lines, high temp fluid, and dedicated track pads.

How well do the OEM calipers/rotors hold up to fade? I haven't dug into things yet as I just picked up the car and it is winter here, but it doesn't look like there are OEM cooking ducts.

I'm hard on brakes (I've melted DTC 60s on a heavier car without ventilated brakes). I would prefer not to have to run ducting for only doing a handful of events a year, but if others have had issues I'll bite the bullet since it will be cheaper than replacing glazed/warped rotors and cracked pads.

I'll be running 17x8 Kosei wheels with 235 R Comps on the track.

Just upgrade your pads and fluid for your first event and see what you think she needs from there.

Stock calipers work well enough. Stock rotors are vented and work fine as well, until you chew them up with aggressive pads. Track pads and fluid on stock everything and 235 r compounds here and no issues after a year of tracking. New brake lines on this new of a vehicle is also unnecessary unless you're very picky with feel.

Based on your experience, start with a similar pad to the DTC, along with fluid, and see how you do. If you're fading that, then the only solution is to examine your driving to see if there are any corrections that can be made there (unlikely with your experience), or get a BBK.

Ducting will help a little, but a BBK is the real solution.

I run dtc60, haven't had any issues other than slight abs activation. No fade or anything like that.

Thanks. Any other modifications to the car? Or did you just slide in the pads and hit the track?

The Togue Factory brake duct kit will make a significant difference. I run DTC-60s with good fluid and the ducts. Is it as good as a BBK? No. But for me, it is the difference between having confidence my car will stop (mostly) consistently during a 20 minute session and going back in after a few laps.
Without the ducts I would have to bleed my brakes after every other session. With them I can go several days at least.
Also, keeping operating temps down with a BBK keeps operating costs down. If you have a chunk of change to spend and know you'll be doing many days every year for at least a few years, go with a BBK.
The TF duct kit is a nice middle ground that is a great value.

I have stainless lines and RBF600 fluid. I pulled the stock rotors to put in some centric blanks after about 15k miles, a bunch of auto-x and 3-4 track days. I have them sitting around as spares in case i ever crack a rotor at the track.

No cooling, brake bias, or other mods.


Car has suspension, exhaust, and is currently tuned on e85.

Brake pads, that have an elevated heat capacity, are the most important part of fade prevention. Application is key to setting up the car properly. If you are looking to improve your braking capacity, please don't hesitate to contact us! :thumbup:

Completely agree. The track I race the most has 2 very high speed straights in your sharper corners with minimal run off, sadly I've seen too many cars boil the fluid and play tag with walls. :(

Brake pads and brake fluid are always important items to add. For the track, we use pads developed for track use and brake fluid that is developed for racing/endurance racing. Quality of fluid for use on your car can be used for just a limited capacity -or- just use the best and not worry about that capacity issue...let us know if you are looking for a setup that'll keep your confidence high on track. :)