Another V8 Swap (Now 2jz/DCT)
With the impending release of the Vorshlag Swap kit, I have strayed from my Twin Charged FA20 Plans and started putting together my list to put in a crate LS3 over winter. Simple plans of CNC Heads and a decent Cam at first, with a turbo down the road. Eventually looking at 600-700whp (eventual plans had I kept the FA20 as well)
Current List: TSP Turnkey Forged LS3 - Still deciding on which to go with. Improved Racing Baffled Front Sump oil pan swap kit Vorshlag Stg.0 Swap kit (Brackets/mounts, Driveshaft, Long Tube Headers) Vorshlag Custom T56 Magnum XL Vorshlag Tilton Master cylinder/Slave cylinder setup MRS Can Device ACT Clutch kit w/ Lightweight Flywheel Oil Cooler set-up Assorted Fuel Fittings Greddy Evo GT 3" Exhaust Vibrant 18" Resonators Planning on starting to order things Monday. I have flip flopped on what parts I am wanting to go with quite a bit. Changed between the LS3 and a LS7 four or five times now. So I am giving myself a bit more time to really think it over. Though I am almost positive I won't deviate from the current plan/parts list at this point. |
I love a good mod thread just as much as the next guy but if this is the route you wanna go why not just start with a corvette and go from there?
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I guess LS swaps are cheaper then I thought as I would expect it to cost more to swap and get working properly then it does to just start out with a ls vet.
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I was sort of looking forward to where you went with the FA20.
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Better choice in the end for LS swap for reliability I think. Watching all these build threads for when my motor goes. |
I must admit I am torn as well, but the more I thought about it, the more difficult it was going to be to get it done completely right. There were a lot of variables that made the LS swap a much more solid choice.
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Why go fresh crate motor? You could be cheaper off with a bottom end since you're changing a lot of the surrounding parts anyways.
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https://www.texas-speed.com/c-3188-a...d-engines.aspx
I considered a stroker from them and they were super helpful. Otherwise, tick performance, TEA, BTR.... the list of lsx performance providers is a mile long. |
I would like if you track every part price so i can figure out how much cost at the end. Considering this route as well when fa20 blow up. Also my concern are related to drive train, and the cost of custom job to fit it. Best wishes and good luck
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If he is keeping it strictly NA I don't think a cast iron block would be beneficial. The aluminum blocks are proven to add little weight to this chassis, and are durable enough for FI in the future. 600-700 NA is achievable, but will take more than you think to make that at the wheels and still be completely livable on the street. |
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Another just go buy a Corvette post....geez!......you either get it or you dont.....people who can do this swap are more than capable of buying a Vette....my answer to you guys is Baaaaaaaa!.......go Dustin go!.....glad you picked reliability over....Tick! Tick! Boom!
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https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iwuZ6nfZJcs/hqdefault.jpg |
Subscribed af
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The swap, as cool as it could be, is sort of cheating. |
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I think we need to let Dustin have his thread back now.
Sorry Dustin that was an accidental derailment. Look forward to following your new journey. |
It was a good derailment. Adding axles to the parts list as I had my driver side one start clicking super loud all of a sudden. Looks like Driveshaft Shop or Dealer is the only option for non-used axles. Or I roll the dice with a used one from eBay.
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I am going to look into the axles Spencer Fabrications is working on. Rated for 700hp and no question asked rebuilding upon failure. Currently requires sending in the stock axles to be rebuilt. |
Havent heard of failed driveshaft shop half shafts.....interesting....mine have worked great.
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example a 200 hp rally car can break a 500 hp driveshaft from the shear abuse rally puts on the car (if the driveshaft being the weakest link) |
Today is the day. Calling up Texas Speed and Performance after their lunch break to order the engine. Talked to them this morning and they can help me out getting the front sump pan, and baffle kit pre-installed before they send it.
Chosen the TSP 418 630hp Engine. In the end it seemed worth it for some more N/A power. Should take 4 weeks to get to me. Also ordering: ACT Street Clutch w/ LW Flywheel. Fuel Fittings to adapt the two stock metal lines into one single -6 AN hose. Steam Port Adapter. (Shout out to @wutsaiu for his parts list that has part number for fuel set-up and steam port adapter) |
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Decided against the factory crate motor then :w00t: I hope TSP treats you like every dealing I had with them! |
Nice!!! I'll be a few months behind you on a pretty much the same set up. I ordered a 2017 BRZ last week and I'm talking to Texas Speed about that same engine.
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They said it would be about a four week wait. Which doesn't bother me as I don't expect the Vorshlag kit to be released for a couple more months and I know there is about a 2 week wait for the transmission. Currently waiting on my winter car to get out of the shop so I can start tearing down the FRS and get the FA20 parts sold. |
Trying to figure out if I want to spend the money on an aftermarket fuel rail. Looking at the Radium Engineering Kit with a fuel pressure gauge.
http://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/Pro...s/LS_Rails.jpg http://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/Pro...ges/gauge1.jpg http://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/Pro...ges/gauge3.jpg |
I like the look of them. The red fuel rails on this car looks pretty cool http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111575. I think tucking all the wires and cleaning up the hoses would look even better.
As far as adding the gauge in the rail, is it really going to be useful? It's adding another location for a possible fuel leak. You can't see it when you're driving. For testing you'll probably be using a real gauge anyway? Speaking of fuel, what's the plan for a fuel system? |
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Fuel Pressure Gauge in the Rail was more for piece of mind and monitoring while it is on the dyno. I imagine I will upgrade the fuel system down the line. I am waiting to see what radium is about to release for the Twins as well as Visconti. So I will use it set the regulator. I have a DW300C Pump already installed. I'll be running the same sort of set-up as @wutsaiu and merge the two factory fuel lines down to one line to feed the engine. Plan is the move the merge down further out of sight and run a -6 AN Hose up to the Fuel rail. I am also pricing out what running a -6 AN line straight from the tank to the engine would cost. Though I would only really want stainless braided line under the car just in case. Brain Storming: Russells Push on EFI -6 AN Adapter on Fuel Pump Assembly -> -6 AN Stainless Line -> Russells -6 AN Fuel Filter -> -6 AN Stainless Line -> Hose Adapter at the back of engine bay switch from Braided Stainless to Braided Nylon -> Russell Push On EFI -6 AN adapter on fuel rail. |
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I agree with you on the blue or black on a blue car...I'd lean toward everything black. I'm not crazy about the red stitching either(almost went with a new 86 instead because of it)...but that's a lot of stuff to change, I'm hoping the stitching grows on me.
Yeah I can see it useful for dyno sessions...as long as it's a high quality gauge...some of those things are cheaply made. I use this for making fuel and brake lines. http://www.surrauto.com/documents/Ul...ine-Tubing.pdf They offer metal line up to 3/8" (-6 AN) It bends easy and their flaring tool works perfectly. http://www.surrauto.com You can't buy directly from them though. I buy their stuff through Carquest auto parts. |
I went ahead and settled on just sticking with factory rails at this point. Clutch kit and fuel system fittings are ordered. Did the factory lines into a single Vibrant -6 AN line. Greddy Evo GT 3" Exhaust also ordered.
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Probably a good idea...you can always change them later.
Why did you pick this exhaust? Looks good. Kind of uncharted territory though with a V8. Looks similar to the exhaust layout RS-R used on their car. One thing that drives me nuts is exhaust drone. Hopefully it sounds awesome and doesn't drone. Only company I've seen that's figured out how to eliminate exhaust drone is Corsa. I may try to modify one of their systems to fit the BRZ depending on your experience with this Greddy system. |
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I need something to get rid of the terrible drone from my current custom 2.5" which is pretty much a resonated straight pipe. Sounds amazing outside, but too loud inside. |
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