Wheel stud replacement
This covers the replacement of the wheel studs and assumes you have access to a press. You can hammer out the old studs on the car and install using a lugnut and washers, but I have access to a press and wanted to document the "preferred" way of doing so.
Currently this covers the front studs, I'm waiting on the studs for the rear to be delivered. Required parts: -New Studs, either ARP or OEM: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/stud1.jpg -Comparison of OEM vs ARP: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/stud2.jpg 1. Remove brakes: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub1.jpg 2. Remove these 4 bolts (not the lower bolt joint bolt, but the four that hold the hub/bearing to the knuckle): http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub2.jpg 3. Remove ABS speed sensor: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub3.jpg 4. Use base surface mounting area to support it on press blocks: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub4.jpg 5. Use the special tool.. or sockets to support hub from moving/tilting: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub5.jpg 6. Press out each stud, repeat for the next 4. 7. Clean surface a bit: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub6.jpg 8. Put back in press as follows: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub7.jpg 9. Press new studs in: http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/hub8.jpg 10. Reinstall hub, torque 4 hub/bearing carrier bolts to 48ft-lbs. 11. Reinstall speed sensor, torque speed sensor bolt to 5.5ft-lbs. 12. Reinstall brakes. Caliper bracket to knuckle bolts get torqued to 59ft-lbs. Also tested the socket installation method instead of the press, but I messed it up. Easy to use a press. If you hammer them out and use washers it works, but I suggest the proper way :) Example of messed up stud due to socket (too lazy to find large washers, washers should NOT do this): http://www.itrexpo.com/users/dave/brz/stud3.jpg |
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Reserved for any additional expansion.
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Nice write-up.
One alternative to both the press or the hammer is: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html I couldn't bring myself to beat on my nearly new hubs, so I used this tool to change out 2 studs with severely damaged threads. Did the install by the traditional nut and stack-of-washers method with no problems. |
On a much older crappier car that had a broke stud I used the wheel and lugnut to get it back on, that way you don't need any washers. Simply hammer out half the studs at a time, then put the new studs in, and attach the wheel with the ones you aren't replacing, then put on the remaining lugnuts and pull the studs in place. Then take the wheel back off and replace the other half.
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That can scratch the hell out of the mating surface between the wheel and lugnut though, depends on how much you care I suppose :) |
Nice write up thanks.
Are these to install spacers? (the good way?) |
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Awesome. I was thinking of doing this but I had no idea. I'm probably going to go with stock length studs, that's if they make them
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Thanks for the DIY Dave. Looking forward to your write up for the rears.
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I don't have access to a press, but I did have a ballpeen. If done on the car, the hub has to rotated a bit to remove and replace the stud, but it is not a real pia.
My washer definitely didn't do what your socket did. And now I know what kind of studs to use. The stock one are kinda sucky. I've broken three, two in the back and one in the front. I keep two spare just in case now. |
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Probably easy enough to take the hub out of the car, use a vise (or anything else) and do the hammer method, space would be a lot more abundant that way. :thumbup: |
Regular lug nuts fit these things or do you need open-ended lug nuts?
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