Harbor Freight - 3 Ton Low Profile Jack
 

Not sponsored nor work for Harbor Freight.

Just saw this in my inbox and wanted to share. I might pick this up after work.

Just wanted to share during work, and see if there's any opinion

http://www.harborfreight.com/oct-tab1.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-L...fQ%3D%3D%0D%0A

Nothing wrong with this so long as you understand you are getting Harbor Freight quality. Some of these last a long time. Some break in a year. But for 80 bucks, not a bad deal. Even if it breaks, HF will replace or credit I think. If you have your receipt.

I use the 1.5 ton Aluminum. It's enough for the BRZ and is a lot easier to move and store.

F*ck*ngmotherf*ck*ngb*tcha*sf*ck*ngsh*t.

I just bought a 1.5 ton from them for 70-80 bucks not too long ago... I would rather have taken this deal for the 3 ton. Damn. :mad0260:

Sorry for the profanity:D

Pittsburg = HB brand? I had most of my tools stolen 2 years ago, some slowly re-buying stuff. Craftman Floor jack failed on me so I'm trying to expand my brands.

:thanks: for the input!

pretty good deal for $80. i got a 1.5ton from them a year ago for around $60-70 and was considering this one instead, but 75 lbs seemed too inconvenient to lug/push around for just simple garage use at home. still a good deal tho.

I have this jack and even lowered with TRD lowering springs it still rolls under. Get it asap! It is heavy.

Yes, Pittsburgh (along with most of the other brands sold at HF) is an HF brand.

Things I use only occasionally or can afford to replace frequently I buy at HF (nearly free volt meters, track tools, air tanks, jacks, tarps, etc). Or things that have no quality issues (jack stands, nitrile gloves, simple storage etc.). I won't buy electrics at HF.

Things I want to keep and need to be good quality, I buy elsewhere. Usually Craftsman. (Torque wrenches, sockets, ratchets, screwdrivers etc).

The lightweight one is much nicer. I have this one, the orange heavy ass low profile one and the 129.99 lightweight aluminum one. I have the warranty on the aluminum one and Every 6 months or so I go back and get a new one and get a new warranty($20) so it's like a i lease the jack.. But its always in mint condition, meanwhile the other two jacks i purchased with no warranty sit there and leak fluid all over.

I have issues with 3" clearance. If you want to lift the front of the car, the reach to the jack point is far under. I have to get my car on ramps first. Custom ramps I made. I should post them.


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I have the HF 2-Ton Low Profile Long Reach as seen:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-60678.html

I have TRD Springs lowered 7/8" to 1" with the 5:AD Front Bumper Lip, Borla Catback, and one of those common E-Bay Rear Diffusers.

Using the front and rear jacking points there are issues even with the extended reach. *Edited to say I can post pics to illustrate what I'm talking about.

Jacking up the front: Even with the long reach I have perhaps 1/2" to 3/4" clearance from the center area of the bumper to the side guards of the jack arm.

Jacking up the rear: The long metal arm used to jack the car needs to be started parallel to the ground, slid underneath and positioned at a 25-degree angle to avoid touching the lowest part of the Borla cat-back pipe. The first few pumps I only move the arm 3-4" at a time to avoid banging into the diffuser.

You could get away with the 3-ton if you don't have an body kit mods that extend your front lip or lowers your diffuser.

And/or have custom ramps per DrDuquette's suggestion.

2 Ton variant is slightly lower.... Ive had it for 2 years now and its been a champ!

I have two of the jacks this thread is about, and one of the typical aluminum low profile jacks. None of them have ever let me down, I got one warranty for the 3 ton jacks, I figure the aluminum one is so cheap I may as well just get a new one when it fails. I've had the aluminum one for about 4 years with fairly hard use, and the steel ones for about 1.5 years with fairly hard use.

I'm a fan of them all.

Edit: The steel one can reach under the front of my BRZ with swift springs, and an STi lip no problem.

I have the Aluminum one that I keep in my race trailer and take to the track with me. It works pretty well. I have had it for 5 years and haven't had any issues. Its a bit too short to get to jacking points on the BRZ though. My car is roughly 1" lowered and lips/skirts all the way around, and I've never had an issue with the height. I have a 3.5 ton steel jack in my shop, but the height is too tall to get under an 86.

I'm going to buy one of the 2 ton low profile jacks that HF sells with the long reach to replace my steel one. The long reach should make it easy to reach the front jacking point and under the diff, even with lips and diffusers.

2 ton variant is slightly lower. I have this jack in the 2 ton. It is superb. It may be heavy, but it is lower profile than the aluminum equivalents.

Great jack -- Would recommend it.

I have this jack and love it. My old man had two jacks; one didn't lift high enough to get stands under, and the other was too high to get underneath it. I would use one jack to get underneath it and then the other to lift it up high enough lol (not recommended of course). For the money you can't beat this deal. Low profile, lifts high, and it's 3 ton! I got a warranty just in case because the quality with these is sparatic; some will last forever, others will go in a few uses.

Y'all wanna share additional links? :D I was looking at the 2TON extended but whoo, $140, I'm making due with a 2Ton jack that looks like this one:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...oJTxoC_Jfw_wcB

I use this jack on my 5700lb Landcruiser so thats why i got the 3ton, but if you just have the car get the 2ton.

Really shouldn't matter. You shouldn't be lifting your entire car on the jack (one half of the weight usually stays on the ground when you lift).

2 ton is good for most applications -- although best not to get near the max of the jack (leave 20% of total weight capacity free)

I have 2 ton. Too tall to fit under car now... I suggest getting a low profile aluminum one instead. Mine is HEAVY

well the rear of my truck weighs about 2800 so I play it safe. I don't think it's possible to lift an entire vehicle with one hydraulic jack anyway lol

I actually bought their 2-ton version that has a longer arm than this one. Even with it's lower weight rating, it was more expensive and the longest travel from fully down to fully up they offer. Ive already used it a few times since bought it 2 months ago and totally love it.

I got tired of re-buying jacks every time I got a new car. This made my other two floor jacks kind of pointless to own, but eh - now I don't have to think about it again. Now, if the damn thing didn't weigh 100lbs...

I got one last month..perfect for lowered cars but man them wheels are so rough on concrete...

I use this Craftsman 2 1/2 Ton Low Profile Jack from Sears. Kind of a sucky short arm and relief knob for lowering, but hey, it's $62.99.

So I've been using the 3 ton hf without issues on stock height 86. Clearance is very close already. If I install TRD lowering springs, which I understand provide just under a 1" drop, will this floor jack still work? I feel like I'm reading some contradictory testimony and this thread is proving relevant.

Thx

Get a low profile or race ramps

It is a low profile jack. Just wondering if it's low pro enough.

Not concerned with rear, but when sliding the jack under the front jack point, the reach is so far that you start to slide the non low pro mid section under the front clip

Put your jack under and measure. If you have an inch you're fine. If not... race ramps

Edit: if you're only an inch or so short, just make some "ramps" out of 2x4s or something. Anything to get an extra inch or whatever. Keep it cheap and light

Trying to get one around the same price that is lower and longer, but they're usually 40-60 more.
Main appeal is lowest point, price and length.

It works on my TRD lowered car.

Or do this:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JKndoat9qU"]Make your own Lowered Car Ramps for $5 - YouTube[/ame]

I bought this exact floor jack when I got my car 2 years ago. Still works like a dream.

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I got this jack about 6 months ago and the other day, all the oil exploded when I tried to use it. Not sure if it's because it was 15 degrees out but it failed on me when I really needed it more than ever (flat tire)

My life has been so much easier since this jack has entered it. :thumbup:

The square plug that is welded to the bottom of the jack handle on mine failed. Was trying to jack up a big 2door freezer and the valve would not tighten. Pulled the handle out of the jack and discovered that the round washer with the square hole cut in it, the weld had broken off the bottom of the handle. Jacks only have a 90 day warranty...............unless you buy an extended warranty.................

I use: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-a...ump-62247.html

I love it because if you center it directly in front of the BRZ and slide it in until right before it hits the bumper; it's directly below the front jack point. I use hockey pucks with my jacks/stands and it also holds a hocky puck perfectly. Costs a bit more, but worth every penny. There is also the fact that it is pretty good on "travel" in the pressure release. I can let the car down slowly instead of "not moving", "not moving", "not moving", "crash".

*resurrection*

Just got the long-reach steel 2-ton for my lowered FRS and it's perfect.

I can reach the front jack point from the front with no ramps and it lifts the car really high.

I did have to return the first one because the valve was way too touchy. (Difficult to bring car down slowly) Howver, HF exchanged it with no hassle qnd the second one works great. This thing is HEAVY though..not a candidate for track days IMO, but great for the garage.

Oh, and the pic under the car is with the jack raised to the jack point. It goes down level with the jack frame with just the "cup" sitting above the frame.

I've had one of these for around 3 years. It works really well for the money.

Do a couple little things to give it a decent head start and it should serve you really well:
Use blue locktite on the caster nuts, top off the jack oil, (it ships low in my experience,) all moving pivots should get a little bit of lithium grease or axle grease on them, (keeps them quiet,) and the bolt that holds the handle in strips out really easily, (the bolt threads fail, not the handle/nut threads,) so replace this with a beefier fastener.

It lifts my BRZ from the front or diff no issue. The car is lowered -1.5 inches on ST's all the way around, has an STi lip, and the MXP SP exhaust is 'busy' around the rear diff, so I have no clearance issues anywhere with any setup I've tried to lift.

Just curious, will it reach the rear diff without pushing the handle up under the car?

I'll check when I get home.

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