Lowered on coilovers with camber, front swaybar endlink rubs/binds inner wheel well?
 

My car is lowered on Tein Mono Sport coilovers and I have a Hotchkis front sway bar, and I've had this problem for a while but I've always kind of been putting it aside without finding a better solution.

Basically what happens is because I need negative camber for increased cornering grip on the track, my strut is pulled too close to the wheel well and my sway bar endlink actually rubs and sometimes binds on the inside.

Has anyone else experienced this and had a solution? I'm using both my coilovers' camber plates and SPC camber bolts to get to around -3 degrees of camber up front.

Here's a little doodle I made on my phone (with my elementary school level drawing skills) to show exactly what happens.

http://s17.postimg.org/kf4exbhy7/doo...7629401132.png
Green is my coilover, orange is the sway bar, blue is the endlink, and the red X is where it hits.

No one? :(

Have you thought about adjustable end links? Are you binding on the control arm?

What end links do you have?

Seen this happen once. Coils were installed wrong left/right. Caused too much castor and endlink to make contact. Maybe check that?

3 solutions.

1: raise the front ride height so the endlink has enough clearance when suspension is compressed.

2: run less camber so it has clearance when suspension is compressed

3: chop off the endlink mounting tab on the strut then reposition and weld back on the strut so it has clearance when suspension is compressed

I've been testing with -4.5 camber up front (overkill) using combination of top hats and camber bolts and I don't have this issue. Check the parts and install.

Do you have Tein mono sport as well?

Nope. I swap between kw v3's and ground control. I also had neo motorsports in the past.

I've run at least -3 with those setups without issue. I don't run very low though. So I don't think your camber should be the problem and you should check your install just in case. If that's not the case I am out of ideas. Sorry.

Why so much camber? At lease we know v3 and ground control will not have clearance problems.

Track. I don't have to worry abour daily driving the car. I found I was faster with more camber.

-4.5 is crazy, but I've seen a forum member's track s2000 with just as much dialed into the front, even with it's double wishbones. What are your spring rates?

It is crazy. I may dial back a bit next season. I've run spring rates everywhere from stock to 8k. I have been changing a lot to see and feel the effects of chnages.

I like how OP bumps the thread when we give no direct answer, and when we ask for relevant info such as what type of endlinks, he doesn't reply...

-alex

Not really. I'm currently around -3.8 and I am daily driving the car now.

-alex

I'm sure you have the tire budget...

Camber alone does not kill tires.

I actually think I'm having this same problem.

Stock front bar + stock endlinks with MCS singles.

Have shorter endlinks on the way which I suspect will fix it right up.

You mean like actually driving in on roads? lol tell us more, @mav1178 :popcorn:

Different length endlink will probably not do anything for clearance at the strut mount since the mounting tab position is unchanged on the strut. Although a smaller, less protruding, upper endlink will give more clearance.

A different length endlink may give you more clearance at the control arm/sway bar side.

we have the same problem on our race car with RCE tarmac2 (KW) and stock end link. We had to grind as much material as possible on the endlink so it doesn't touch the body of the car. They have been holding on fine so far for the whole season.

I'm hitting on both sides I think. And I'm going to a shorter and lower profile setup. Will post after it works. I didn't buy off the shelf frs stuff.

My street tires wore even at -3 with daily driving. That's why I decided to go further.

both front and rear? What kind of tire pressures are you running? @mav1178?

how much lower than stock are you guys?

Maybe 1.5"? I'm honestly not sure.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psh3lzonta.jpg

I had the same problem. Ran max low and max camber and rubbed.I was too lazy to fix it properly so I ended up taking to that part of the body with a ball pein hammer :lol: you can't notice it from inside the engine bay. As to whether you rub or not is usually determined by what coils/endlinks you have. Some coil manufacturers offer camber and height adjustibility without taking into account how this may affect the endlinks. The ones who do set their mounts a little further forward. Getting adjustable endlinks CAN help, but it depends mainly on the profile of the knuckle joint. The standard ones stick out quite alot whereas some aftermarket ones have smaller more compact knuckles.

^ Hammer fixes everything. lmao! :laughabove:

Bad reception on phone? hit it with hammer. Starter motor not working? Tap firmly with a hammer. Annoying wife won't shut up? Bust out the 10lbs sledge hammer. (edit: tis joke. I do not condone domestic violence) unless dat bitch was axeing fo it :laughabove:

Alright thanks guys, I have Whiteline adjustable endlinks on order hoping they'll be slimmer on the strut-side for more clearance, I'll let you guys know how it goes.

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a7&oe=56AC4EC6

^ Neither of your cars seem "too low," but it's hard to say especially when you're trying to eyeball it while they're both using larger diameter wheels than stock.

we are not running really low, i would say 1-1,5" lower than stock

I have checked the whitelines and they are pretty much the same thickness as stock so i am afraid these won't work for you either.

I have exactly the same problem. Lowered 1" on Swift Sport springs. Have RCE camber plates up front. When I maxed out camber at -3.2, I seriously damaged the wheel well with the endlinks. After backing off the camber to -2.6, everything seemed fine. After driving for couple weeks I checked again yesterday and my driver's side is completely fine, however I can see some rubbing marks on the passenger side. I confirmed with RCE that camber plates were installed correctly so no clue why this is happening.

Any suggestions for a low profile endlink?

I also started hearing some noise when I turn the wheel lock to lock, also from passenger side. Almost like smth is stuck and is forced to move, making tuck, tuck, tuck sound lol. Possible that 1" lowering is too much for stock endlinks?

I have this same issue, no solutions yet other than running less camber. Searched for lower profile end links but no results. The washers on the stock end links seemed pretty thick, I'm wondering if removing them or replace them with thinner washers might just help a slight bit?

Did you ever find a solution that eliminated the endlink clearance issue? I'm running MCS singles, too, and would appreciate the guidance.

I went with shorter whiteline endlinks. I think my 17x9 +42 wheels with 245/40/17 tires may catch on the lock here and there, but the 17x9 +35 with 255/40 setup caught pretty regularly.

Narrower tire seemed to fix most of it.

Did you go with the KLC180-195??

Yup.

i have adjustable end links as well. the driver side is adjusted wrong and i never fixed it. i rubs 2. probably not good for it but what ever

My rub on the sway and inner wall nearly full lock , -3 camber , Tein SRC , super pro 20mm front sway , megun tie rod . Rubbing since I have the tie rod ...


I thought it wasn't that bad , just leave it like that over a year .

Has anyone with rubbing actually checked this? The front struts are definitely not symmetrical, and putting the left on the right could cause issues.