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ichi's 86 Project
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5c0e2dabd1.jpg
Member always asks me my mods and what car I have, so thought to share it here my progress. Current Mods: Engine: HKS intake filter Radium Engineering oil catch can FXT water to oil cooler (throttle body) Trans: Verus Engineering clutch fork Verus Engineering clutch pivot Motul 300 gear oil Exhaust: 2.5" custom catback exhaust Suspension: Cusco Touring-A struts Verus Engineer top hats Eibach Pro springs ST Suspension sway bar (front) Whiteline end links (front) ARP extended studs SPC rear lower control arms Gorilla forged steel racing open ended lug nuts Perrin steering rack lockdown Brakes: Subaru 4/2 Piston Calipers (front) Centric rotors Project Mu Type NS pads StopTech SS brake lines (front) Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace ITS Pedal Support Bracket Chassis: Cusco rear crossmember brace AVO Turboworlds Dif bushings Whiteline Positive Traction kit Exterior: Subaru OEM bolt covers Beat-Sonic shark fin Lamix headlight & fog light clear covers Diode Dynamics Tail as Turn & Backup Module Diode Dynamics LED lights (fogs, reverse, f&r side, door, turn signals) SuperTEK Hood dampers TRD style duckbill spoiler GCS Door Hinge Covers Subaru Door Bolt Head Covers Bayson R kouki rear lip Bayson R S style side skirts Bayson R CS style front lip Depo Taillights / Ninja Gaskets Ceramic tint F:50% / R:35% Interior: Diode Dynamics LED lights (Dome, Door & trunk) WeatherTech weather floor mats Toyota Corolla Area86 custom neck cushion Beastronic/86Nanny pedal dance + ABS disable Gspeed Gas Pedal Kit Cusco x Bride Digo II Type-R (dr) & Digo II (ps) seats OEM Black Shifter Trim OEM Black AC Vents (outer) OEM MT Traction Control Buttons Subaru BRZ tS EPS Raceseng Stratose shift knob (nappa leather) Toyota 860 Kouki Cluster Gauge Gerald Project Cluster Gauge Controller https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...9.jpg?w=700&h= Daily Setup: Suspension: Cusco Touring-A Damper: Full soft (F/R:40) Brakes: Project Mu Specs: Type NS Wheels: CMP Custom Forged Wheels Spec: 17x8 +35 Tires: Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 Spec: 225/45-17 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0.jpg?w=700&h= Winter Setup: Suspension: Cusco Touring-A Damper: Full soft (F/R:40) Wheels: Enkei VR5 Spec: 17x8 +45 Tires: Hankook Winter iPike Spec: 215/45-17 Brakes: Project Mu Specs: Type NS Yeah... it's not a lot much modification as other member here. Reason to this is, because I'M NOT RICH!!! lol Put the joke on the side, I need to know what mods do what and need to test em out. Result, it takes long time to mod my car. Philosophy and goal of my car is "Balance". Balance is everything, well balance car is hard to built than high power car. Mods Reviews: Winmax Brake Pads RS-R Sports-i Moto-Spec Coilovers Cusco Rear Power Brace & AVOturboworld Differential Anti-tramp Bushing Lamin-X Headlight & Foglight Clear Films Diode Dynamics LED Lights Beastronix 86Nanny Pedal Dance + ABS off GSpeed Gas Pedal Kit Innovated Dynamics Exhaust Cover ST Suspension Sway Bar Enkei Raijin Wheels (18x8) Custom Single-Exit Catback System Ace Header & Over-Pipe Wheelhaus 3rd Brake Light TRD Style Duck Spoiler Cusco x Bride Digo II seats Kouki 86/BRZ EPS module Raceseng Stratose shift knob Bayson R Kouki 86 rear lip Depo Taillights / Ninja Gasket Cusco Touring-A Strut & Viofo A129Pro Duo Dash Cam Thanks to all the sponsors for helping me and make things possible: https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...ibh1.jpg?w=640 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...jpg?w=150&h=42 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...jpg?w=150&h=42 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...jpg?w=150&h=33 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...jpg?w=150&h=33 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...jpg?w=150&h=18 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...pg?w=150&h=102 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...pg?w=150&h=118 |
Mods/DIY I wanna do & resources
Auris vents Rear Seat Delete DIY Rear Seat Delete Lightest Brakes or BBK |
I drove over 10,000 miles in the hot weather as high as 110 degrees to cold as low as -1 degrees freezing condition, along with several autocross events on the weekend with these brake pads. It's time for me to make some review on these pads to my fellow twin owners.
https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...untitled-1.jpg These brake pads work as a double duty pad for daily driving and autocross and have exceed well over my expectation. They work reliably well for everyday street driving, with added confidence in pedal feel, and resulting in better control. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...6/dsc_0019.jpg The W2 provides excellent stopping power for street tires and with significantly less dust than most performance pads of this type. The pads don’t fade much in most casual sporting activities, and they lack any of the associated noises or dusting of other typical performance oriented pads. While it isn’t a fully geared competition brake pads for road racing circuits, what you get in exchange is all of the better characters of street car pads in terms of life expectancy, wear, reliability and huge operating range. I’ve tested them in variety of climates and conditions, and the W2 pads kept evenly, excellent feel and modulation, to delicately tread snow, or hard brake in the dry. I would recommend to anyone seeking casual performance pads, which can retain the clean and quiet nature of OEM pads while seeking extended braking control and resistance to fade under mild sporting driving. Winmax USA does make a very good product according to my needs. Hope that helps anyone who's looking for new brake pads. :thumbsup: |
Now, Everyone who read the mods saw that I've chosen RS-R Sports-i Moto-Spec coils. Some of you might be wondering "Why RS-R?" or "Why didn't you go with xxx?" (KW, Bilstein, RCE, Ohlins & so on)
Even 86/BRZ aftermarket development was booming, there were limited coil options. Sometimes manufacturers will try to impress you with the dozens of adjustability &/or features that can be changed... but realistically speaking, is it necessary? Are you gonna use em all? Simplicity can be better than complex. RS-R I-Shock series, specially RS-R Sports-i Moto spec was designed just for our car in street use plus light autox/track. If you're wondering how well this coils perform in autox/track, harsh road, winter/snow. Tip of advice. Daily, have your coil dampers full soft (F36/R24), it'll absorb the dips and bumps enough that, it doesn't bug you too much. Autox/track, dial it to whatever you need. I usually have it F30/R15, which comes out very nicely in autox. Winter/snow time, I keep it same as daily full soft with snow tires, it's golden! No issue of salt getting in. performing wonderfully in the snow. Don't want to bored you guys, so I'll post some before and after photos. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0012.jpg?w=650 https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0141.jpg?w=650 Thanks to Moto-san and RS-R crew, they have setup my coils before they shipped. Here's before (OEM) https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0071.jpg?w=650 Here's after. https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0018.jpg?w=650 Here's front before https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0112.jpg?w=650 After https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0191.jpg?w=650 Rear before https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0012.jpg?w=650 After https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...0021.jpg?w=650 Would I recommend it? Answer is Yes and No. If you're like me, daily drive your FRS/BRZ and once a while autox/track, then 200% recommend this. If you're making prepping for fully race then, no. You need Sports-i CR or better coils. |
Little side track, but @PST was very kind enough to listen to my request and making a kit to move the gas pedal bit closer to brake pedal. If you don't know, what I'm talking about, check here: Gas Pedal Kit. I can't wait to get a hands on one and test it out myself to see.
Reading their development journal is very interesting and educational as well. If you got time, worth reading (here) Anyways, this isn't really a "journal", but more of "idea/thought" that some vendor/shop see and make it, just like PST did. http://www.more-japan.com/blogs/wp-c...L-COOLER-2.jpg Some of you might notice (or some might not), but twin have issue of heating up, if you like to race. This have been on discussion from day one, specially for owner who put FI in their cars. Solution? Simple, install oil cooler. That'll drop enough to keep the temperature down to keep high comp, high revving boxer engine happy... which equals to happy driver. Jackson Racing, Mishimoto, Cusco, AVO, Perrin, Sard, PTUNING, HKS, GReddy and many other tuning shops who heard our cry and made oil cooler for our cars. http://www.fa20club.com/image.php?type=P&id=17793 I, myself have looked into this as well. I do autox often and want to keep engine operating temperature is important. After several months of research, reading the reviews, testing & seeing the data from owners who owned them. I decided to go with water-to-oil cooler instead of air-to-oil cooler. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/415yw6lJbNL.jpg If you live in SoCal, AZ or TX prob air-to-oil is way to go. Air-to-oil is more efficient than water-to-oil, where I live in the winter time, temperature drop down to minus. Keeping the engine cool and keeping the engine in operating temperature is different, too cold/hot isn't a good thing. Water-to-oil will get the oil cool in the summer racing time, while it'll warm up the oil in the cold winter time quicker. http://www.revworksinc.com/assets/im..._oilcooler.jpg So my journey looking for Water-to-oil kit start. Most of water-to-oil kit now day have shiny pipes to make a "bling"... which for some owners, it's plus, but for me, I was aiming to make it OEM looks, so it was out of question. http://i40.tinypic.com/2dcc138.jpg I was looking around and saw this DIY and it looked nice! Kept OEM look, which is total plus. Don't need any bling showing off my car. Keep it "look" OEM, but different enough to make my "own" looks and performance to it. http://i43.tinypic.com/2wqsiaa.jpg Now, there's still an issue with this. Because this isn't technically direct bolt-on and need to do few light custom work. Example is FXT vs BRZ water pipe are different design, as you can see the pic above (longer FXT, shorter BRZ). If some shop can weld one extra pipe into one side of BRZ water pipe and have everything as a oil cooler package and sell it for say... $400~$500, isn't that a win-win for everyone? What do you guys think? Or any shop interested? Cuz if really do come out, you have 1st buyer here :) |
After going to few local autox, I figured some stuff I wanted from my car. One of them was rear stiffness & less flex from the chassis. If that's the case, it gotta be sway right? I went different route. Yes, sway bar will reduce the unnecessary flex and plant the tires to the ground.
I would of went with Hotchiks sway bars... but I wanted to go different route to this, so I asked around and help of few experts, I got myself these. http://counterspacegarage.com/media/...692-492-rm.jpg http://d5otzd52uv6zz.cloudfront.net/...c2bf88-800.jpg What are these? First one is Cusco Rear Power Brace and second item is @AVOturboworld Differential Anti-tramp Bushing. Where they go? Here http://i.imgur.com/DI0GT8m.jpg Sorry for the crappy pic. It was very cold night and wasn't really wanted to stay in freezing garage to take nice photos. Here are better pics I found in the web Cusco Rear Power Brace http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/027...g?v=1384788796 AVOturboworld Differential Anti-tramp Bushing http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1412019814 Reason I went with both upgrade (I did it different time installing them and testing) was there were unnecessary movement was happening from rear diff. The stock bushing was too soft and it was flexing around, result lost of traction and lost of steering response. I was talking with AVO about this concern, he recommended this. This reduces excess diff movement under power and eliminating wheel hop in the starting line. Now, diff issue been solved, I needed to get unnecessary movement gone on the rear. I solved this by adding on Cusco Rear Power Brace. This was of trying out to see if it works like sway bar or just a bling. Amazingly, it worked well! Not well as sway, but enough to see the difference. I would recommend both for people who wish for small upgrade that doesn't change the car's dynamic, but want to reduce the unnecessary movement of the car and sharpen the steering response. |
Now this one isn't really a performance upgrade... more like maintenance upgrade.
Recently car's headlight cover have made by plastic, result is foggy headlights. To avoid this, I bought this. https://ichitaka05.files.wordpress.c...0001.jpg?w=650 Lamin-X Headlight and foglight covers. I could of got few different color, but I went with simple clear coat. https://ichitaka05.files.wordpress.c...0002.jpg?w=650 Whole kit came with:
This is first time, doing vinyl/clear coating my headlight, so I'm no pro at this... but I think, it came out pretty good. What do you think? https://ichitaka05.files.wordpress.c...0010.jpg?w=650 Film itself was very nice and very flexible to work with. I screwed up several times and had to peel them out, but I think it came out well. Now, there are few cons about this kit. First is foglight cover film is WAY TOO BIG! As you can see from pic below, it's almost 1.5 of the size and I had to cut them out. https://ichitaka05.files.wordpress.c...0003.jpg?w=650 Another issue was, headlight film didn't cover the whole thing. I tried several time to perfectly fit. I wish, they gave extra to cover the whole headlights. https://ichitaka05.files.wordpress.c...0014.jpg?w=650 After using for, lets see... over an year going through hard winter (with snow and salt) and extreme hot summer days, it's still working perfect. It's not for everyone, but if you're worry about headlight becoming foggy or rock hitting the headlights and get chipped, it worth looking into. |
If anyone having heel & toe issue with twins. Well, check this kit out by PST/GSpeed.
http://i.imgur.com/HDxhe4e.jpg?1 What it does is bring the pedal forward and bring it closer to the brake pedal to do h&t easier. ...but do to my selfish reason, I had to make few custom work on it. http://i.imgur.com/0A9Wu1b.jpg?1 I'll be testing out in Autox & full review later on. http://i.imgur.com/MwIcqAc.jpg?1 |
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Is there a difference in upgraded fluids? If you're just daily drive it or autox, no. If you track it, yes, there's a difference. |
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Did the rear chassis flex appear with the upgraded coilovers or was it also there with the factory suspension? |
WArning, STX illegal mods contained within.
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Both. Just a warning to potential viewers
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Good news about Gas Pedal kit is it only take 5mins to install/uninstall, so next year's National and regional Solo, I'll make sure to take it off. |
While waiting for this weekend's autox, here's one mod that I did earlier that I didn't post here.
@Diode Dynamics's LED light bulbs. Why I went with them instead of other brands? Cuz they backup their stuff with facts. Not only photos, but other datas. In this thread, it show some good info: Lighting Tech 101 https://ichitaka05.files.wordpress.c...2-21.jpg?w=650 What I got was: Foglights Dome lights Door lights Trunk lights How are they? You can look for yourself. OEM: https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...pg?w=640&h=425 After: https://ichitakaproject.files.wordpr...pg?w=640&h=425 Instead of amber lights, it's now white LED lights. Overall I do like em, BUT I would recommend forking over extra to get higher grade ver. I got the basic (cheap ver), so it's not bright as I wish. Also I'm not a fan of door light brighten up the corner and not in the center (yeah, very minor problem)... but maybe some of you are like me, don't make this mistake and buy higher up and you won't regret it. https://ichitaka05.files.wordpress.c...14-2.jpg?w=650 Now, I've bought other stuff from them as well. I'll be doing that review later. |
After several testing, I can finally give you guys 2 products review. Both of them were my selfish request (and few member's wishes) products.
First one is @Beastronix's Pedal Dance + ABS kit Second one is @GSpeed's Gas Pedal Kit I want to thank both for listening to my request and actually making it. http://i.imgur.com/5YbPAyW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/BofYlHD.png?1 Start off from Beastronix's Pedal Dance + ABS kit. I've been following Beastronix or should I say, 86Nanny for a while. Since he made VSC+TC off module for our car. When he decided to make new module Pedal Dance kit, I requested to make one that can disable ABS as an option. I know you guys prob have few questions, so let me answer few of em: Q1 - What's Pedal Dance? A - You can read the thread here for that: Pedal Dance Q2 - Why disable ABS? A - Can't drift with ABS on. Yes, not only autox, but I do drift & time attack as well. Q3 - Why not just pull the ABS fuse? A - Cuz if I pull the ABS fuse, I'll disable PS (Powersteering) as well. For my selfish reason, I want ABS off, but keep PS on. Q4 - Why Beastronix instead of other company? A - Hm... there might be several excuses for that, but for me, he sounded more passionate about his products and listen to the people/customer for their wants. Installation http://i.imgur.com/8wxSYFX.jpg?1 It's pretty simple plug and play. You don't need to be rocket scientist nor mechanic to install this... but there might be few problem/concern installing. 1. Need to drill a hole. If you don't like drilling a hole into a new car, but want this kit, you might need to look for other options. Cuz you do require to drill a whole. I drilled a hole into the common spot everyone was drill (& prob meant to). I was a bit scared, but it wasn't my first time drilling something into my car. Double made sure it's on the right spot and drill my way. http://i.imgur.com/YZjfZpn.jpg?1 2. Location of module. I'm pretty sure it vary with each setup, but it might be better to have standard spot to hide that module... or maybe I missed it in the instruction. I've zip tied it to one of dash pillar, so it's out of the way and unless I go under the dash, I won't see it (I tried to take a pic... but it all came blur). Performance http://i.imgur.com/cLxDJX3.jpg?1 Tested out several events and it performed the way it should be. There was one issue... but FYI, issue was my end and not Beastronix. Reason why bring this up is, when I brought the concern, he replied back pretty quickly. It was within 24hrs of sending the message in FB. Customer service is excellent! Not sure about you guys, but when I'm getting ready to race, I got so~~~ much stuff gotta do. Change tires, put the numbers on the side, pull everything off from the car, get helmet and lists goes on and on. I don't got time warm up my car, pull ebrake 3 times, push brake 3 times blah blah blah blah. I just simply push the button hold it for few secs and done! I'm in PD mode with ABS off! I want ABS? One more push and done! I can focus on all the other things. Module do conncect to OBDII, but module itself is and can be hidden very well and it doesn't get in the way. Again, I've zip tied it to one of dash pillar, so it's won't get in my way. My right leg don't touch the OBDII connector nor even get near it. Make things more plus is some of you guys don't have TPMS on their aftermarket wheels. This module can reset the sensor to clear the light for you as well! I have TPMS on my daily tires, but I don't have one on my winter sets, so winter season, I'll be using that! http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...0130091505.jpg Conclusion https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...39&oe=5693D033 You track, autox, drift or any kind of racing. I would highly recommend this. You never gonna disable ABS? Go with Pedal Dance Kit (it's $20 cheaper!). If you just want TC&VSC off? They got one! You want to customize your own? Send him an email! He's a nice guy, he'll work with you. I've met him in person at this year's 86EXPO and he's a nice guy. ;) If you guys want one, go here: Beastronix I'll do Gas Pedal kit review on new post, so stay tune |
Alright, time for review that some of you guys are interested to hear about. GSpeed's Gas Pedal Kit
http://i.imgur.com/ksaXZX6.jpg If you follow GSpeed/PST member journal, you know that they're legit shop. They take data to show what works and what part make what. If you got time, I would highly recommend reading their thread (GSpeed's 2015 BRZ) Anyways, we have been PM'ing back and forth each other on ideas about what 86/BRZ owners would like to see. I've suggested this. Not sure due to Toyota's gas pedal issue, but gas pedal on our car is too far and too deep in! If you look at official Scion FR-S photos, you see that they have different gas pedal. http://jpret.biz/wp-content/uploads/...r-3ttfwxdg.jpg ...but sadly, we got different pedal. FYI there is pedal like that made. In my knowledge, I know 3 people that owns it. One of them is of course Moto-san from Club4AG. One day, I gonna steal it from him lol http://i.imgur.com/xzWCjpW.jpg?1 But realistically speaking, I can't really steal that pedal from my sensei (teacher/master). Anyways, GSpeed listen to my idea and start developing kit that push gas pedal forward (towards driver) and closer to the brake pedal as well. http://i.imgur.com/Jgs17Pf.jpg Quality http://i.imgur.com/v2wpSWf.jpg?1 Quality is top notch for sure! All good quality parts and no concern on anything. Instruction... maybe need some improvements (not too detail), but hey, it's simple parts, so I guess doesn't need much detail instruction. Installation http://i.imgur.com/B6ZEwup.jpg?2 GSpeed did great job making the kit simple, so very minimal tools are needed. Fit like a glove! I didn't need to force anything on any parts... BUT it did took me a sec (plus reading the instruction) what this part was. http://i.imgur.com/3cUANhe.jpg?1 Answer is gas pedal holder (not sure proper word for it). Because Gas pedal get pushed forward, when you 'floor' it, it won't hit the floor. This part will help you from over flooring and breaking the pedal. Here's comparison between OEM. http://i.imgur.com/OHrZGHb.jpg?1 Now, that's out of the way, here's a pic of before and after pic of installation. Before Gas Pedal kit: http://i.imgur.com/si5iHcT.jpg?1 After Gas Pedal kit: http://i.imgur.com/IJ4RgE3.jpg?1 As you can see, it did move the gas pedal forward and closer to brake pedal. To be technical, move the gas pedal 1" forward and 1/4" closer to the brake pedal (GSpeed, if I'm wrong, LMK). Performance Mix feeling about this. Yes, it made heel and toe A LOT easier... but ergonomics was off that daily driving this car was a bit of hassle. If you're track geek and you only drive this car only at track and flooring the whole time, yeah sure, it's fine. When you're daily driving and you want the light push of the gas pedal, your right feet is in very awkward position. Solution? Push the seat 1 click back. Some owner will be fine with it that solution. I'm very picky on position I sit to race and drive. I've tested few autox with pedal kit on. At the beginning it's something needed to get used. Why? Because you might push the gas pedal as well as brake pedal. Not gonna lie, I did that several times. It's prob due with my lazy right feet not hitting the brake pedal in the center, but instead hitting on corner. Also when I try to do heel and toe in full braking, gas pedal is a tiny bit higher than I wish to be. result is an missing the gas pedal or not properly pushing the gas pedal. My solution this concern was this. http://i.imgur.com/aOGsxoC.jpg?1 I had local CNC shop help me shave 1/4" off. Thanks for GSpeed not welding that screw, I just unscrew it off and shave the aluminum. Installed it and tested it out. http://i.imgur.com/lNs88oZ.jpg?1 Now, gas pedal was 99.5% perfectly where I want it. In daily driving, no awkward position nor 1 click back on the seat. I can comfortably drive without pushing the seat back. While I'm racing, I can heel and toe perfectly! Gas pedal is right spot, easier to do heel and toes without extra effort. It's almost like how OEM gas pedal should of been. IMPORTANT NOTE My modification do require cutting. GSpeed lifted the gas pedal 1" on purpose. Gas pedal bolt that welded to the firewall is 1" tall. If you lower more than that, you have to 1) Cut the bolt shorter or 2) drill a hole in gas pedal module. I wasn't really willing to drill sensitive module, so I just cut the bolt about 1/4". I went to local Harbor Freight & picked up rotary tool for $10. Took me bout 5~10mins cutting and installing, but nothing too hard. It's kinda hard to see from the photo, but bolt I've cut is AFTER the nut, so it's nothing worry. Kit is tight and it won't budge. Conclusion I would still recommend this kit to anyone. If you're annoyed that gas pedal is a bit far/deep and having hard time doing heel and toe. After installing the kit, get used to the position of the gas before you start driving or worse go racing (not like me lol). If you're willing to go extra mile to shave the kit about 1/4"~1/6" (that's 6.35mm~4.23mm) and willing to cut little bit of bolt off, it's might be worth it. If you like to buy one @FT-86 SpeedFactory do carry them (& I think, they're the only place that carry it): Gas Pedal Kit It's a bit pricey... but if you want that perfect heel and toe, worth looking into. |
Quick update:
Autox season have finished here and final score have been counted. I've taken 5th place out of 44 in STX class in my region.. Next season, I'll be looking light engine mods to see pros and cons on this car. |
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/019...g?v=1408886376
Looking into power upgrade. First thing I look into was a header. To be detail, UEL header. I've made Header/Overpipe compilation, if you're interesting, check here. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1338537128 Why UEL? This isn't all true (cuz tuning make a difference), but UEL have tendency to take off the tq dip. When you're autocrossing 3500~4500rpm is important (also in drifting as well). When that tq dip hits when coming out of corning, loose 0.5~1 sec. Of course, that can be fixed with suspension setup. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...673/KwNVAm.jpg So which UEL? Currently, on my top list is @Gruppe-s' UEL header. They're quality is top notch and dyno to prove their product. Make it more great is their price. Their price is almost half of other product out there. Now, don't get me wrong, I love to have $800 TOMEI or $1000~$1500 Ace Header/PTUNING headers. They're great products... but after research after research, Gruppe-s header is within my budget to get what I'm looking for. If you're interested in Gruppe-s' header, check their thread: Gruppe-S Unequal length headers Currently, they're doing Black Friday sale, so if you're looking into buy new header, worth looking into. |
Received this in the mail today. It's top quality for sure! Thanks @Gruppe-s
http://i.imgur.com/UnSTOte.jpg If you're wondering what it is, it's hubcentric caps for Weds tc105n. I'll be testing the fitting this weekend. |
Are you still running Winmax W1s/W2s? Any reason for going with the less aggressive pads in the front?
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Anyways, few reasons I went w this setup is, less dust (almost no dust) means, less cleaning. Specially after hard Autox day, I barely have dusts from the front. Testing brake bias. Literally very small difference feel, but beginner this setup is actually fun and comfortable setup. Yes, you want front brake to be a bit more higher brake bias... but that doesn't mean you need that in daily or lil spirited drive. w1 is efficient enough to stop firmly enough for daily needs AND fun Autox days. One of top Autox driver in my class co-drove my car one event & he was surprised with my current setup. We were pushing the car pretty hard, but brake didn't fade & balance of the car was superb. He was amazed I only had very minimal mods on this car & how much it can push & still easy to drive. Only complain he had was lack of power in certain area (TQ dip). BUT I'll be honest there was an one event front brakes surpassed its limit of heat & gave up a bit... but to be fair, outside temp was near 120 w ground temp over 135. Other than that, it's been flawlessly working. |
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Thanks, great info. Just cutting 3" of the hose to fit nicely to FXT pipe. Who knew. This made it more possible for me to make this happen. |
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I haven't posted here for a while... but here you, this weekend, had a chance to install simple/quick mod. Exhaust cover. So thought to give you guys quick review on it.
http://i.imgur.com/KC7vuiU.jpg For a while, I was looking at exhaust cover, due to my exhaust setup (single exit). Currently, I only know FT-86 SpeedFactory and Innovated Dynamics makes cover for our car. I went with Innovated Dynamics. Why? biggest reason was weight. FT86SF cover is made out of steel vs ID cover is made out of poly-flex fiberglass, which makes it way lighter than steel. Of course, that came with higher price than FT86SF ($75 + shipping vs $65 + shipping), so I took the hit and bought ID's exhaust cover. Now, let me say this. I regret buying it. Here are 3 reasons. 1. Quality By any means, I'm not expecting 200% amazing quality parts. Very small scratch, I don't care... but WHOLE cover were covered with scratches and imperfections. I've circled some of them. http://i.imgur.com/ZheBMQk.jpg As you can see, there's a tons more if you look carefully. Specially in the middle there was 3~4" long scratch. Just letting you know, I took that photo right after I've taken out from the box. I didn't play football or baseball with it. It's a bit ridiculous. Interesting one is on the back side http://i.imgur.com/gQ4LvOA.jpg Why there's a huge dip/scratch? By any means, it's gonna be covered, so I won't see it... but it's not really fun to see those things. 2. Nuts & Bolts This cover is hold down by 3 nuts and bolts. Cover have 3 holes and you align it up to the rear bumper and drill a holes and tight them down with nuts and bolts. http://i.imgur.com/pquzuBb.jpg My favorite part of nuts and bolts is this. http://i.imgur.com/I8Ytk0A.jpg How am I gonna tight that bolt? Their quality control is failing badly. Bolts were way too long as well. They didn't really care to figure anything out. Felt like they just found few nuts and bolts in the garage and just put it in. Got a right measurements and went to Home Depot got better nuts, bolts & other stuff to secure the cover properly. Costed me extra $5, but I know, I can tight them down without worry about how I'm going to tight them. 3. Location Kinda hard to explain, but while I was installing it, I notice that side bottom cover isn't really secured. only the top part is secured. Bottom wasn't really secured, so I decided to changed few things around. http://i.imgur.com/naca3oM.jpg As you can see from the photo, I drilled 2 extra holes and use that hole and nuts and bolts to be more flushed with the bumper. Now, here's before and after photo. Before http://i.imgur.com/LKjny14.jpg After http://i.imgur.com/SmDZsOc.jpg and here are several different angle photos http://i.imgur.com/Lfm9b4o.jpg http://i.imgur.com/vUz6qYX.jpg http://i.imgur.com/64lSmWt.jpg Now, I've complained almost whole post... but there are 2 positive to this cover. Cover was molded from the rear bumper, so it fit perfectly. Just securing location need to be better. I stated at the beginning, but this cover is lighter than FT86SF's cover because it's poly-flex fiberglass, instead of steel. Now, would I recommend to anyone? Nope, I can't recommend to anyone. unless, you're looking into for exhaust cover, look into FT-86SpeedFactory's cover. They're a bit heavier, but we're talking bout very small weight difference for very high quality parts. |
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Those are cam head bolts. They are supposed to twist into slots that lock the head or are frequently molded right into a part. They act more like studs and you only tighten the nut. That is a totally wrong application for those. Probably had a bunch around from some other parts that they would have been locked or molded into. |
I have the FT86SF one myself. I would say it depends on preference. It could be that I didnt get mine direct from FT86SF (their shipping is crazy imo - $15 for that light thing) but when I got it it was bent; both the mount points and the curve of the cover itself. I adjusted the mounts fins and the cover a bit but it isnt perfect still. So Id say you deal with getting your own hardwear and redoing the finish (wrinkle black or plastidip) for the flush look or a nice matched finish that does a decent job at covering the hole
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I guess, you win some & loose some :( |
Good review on the cover. I was thinking about buying it for my drop exhaust as well. But luckily I was able to find a used ft86sf one on here loving it no issues at all.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Lol didn't mean to rub it in. How you liking the depo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Not a fan of fartcannon muffler, but they had the 2.5" piping single exit exhaust setup. I'll be cutting off the muffler and putting different muffler to make it a bit more different. |
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To be honest for the price I've been thinking of doing the same or just converting it to a straight pipe. Let me know how it comes out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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& hopefully I'll get the exhaust thing done by April~May. |
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Thank you @FT-86 SpeedFactory for fast shipment.
Now question is, they wrote that all over the box... or Ms. ichi got a hold of it before me. |
http://i.imgur.com/Gp9o9t2.jpg
While that huge box car parts getting installed later, I had a chance to install few goodies this weekend. http://i.imgur.com/6qIedbd.jpg Autocross season is near... well, technically it's already started since last month, but it was too cold to work on my car, so I waited til now. http://i.imgur.com/RflNv0H.jpg Winmax brake pads are my current favorite brake pads. I used to run W1 in front, which did good job for daily and little bit of autocross... but I need it something more toward autocross than daily, so I've update the front pads to W3. They're dustier than W1 for sure, but initial bite is amazing! Which is important for stop go stop go race like autox. No noise is a big plus, specially I'm planning to use my car for daily driving as well. If you're thinking bout getting new brake pads, look into Winmax. http://i.imgur.com/5U02X3H.jpg I kinda wanted DBA rotors... but few members recommended look into Centric plain rotors. I heard a lot of good things and almost no negative review. Price is very fair is pretty good. Initial impression is, look just like OEM rotors. I'll be testing out in autocross soon for more detail review. http://i.imgur.com/VYWXP1v.jpg A local guy was selling this Whiteline front end links for $50! I couldn't say no to that. I have RS-R sports-i coils and I needed adjustable end links to get proper height for sway bar to work, so this was perfect upgrade. Bonus - As you can see from last photo, I have adjustable sway bar installed. I bought ST Suspension sway bar kits. Due to few issues, I only have front installed, so when I have rear installed with autocross and few drivers, I'll do the review. Now bad news is, I was going to install ARP extended wheel studs... but somehow it wasn't working with my aftermarket open end lug nuts. So I'll installing that later. |
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