FI people what typ of oil do you use for your engine to compensate for higher temps
 

Sorry if anything like this exist but I can only find NA oil threads.

As title states, I am wondering what type/brand and weight oil you are using and with which setup SC or turbo and what kit parts.

Reason for this is I have a KW c38 supercharged 2013 brz and am wondering for what type of oil I should switch if any.

I would love any analysis you guys would have had done also to help illustrate the oil's performance and type of driving you typically do. (Also I'm from Canada and will drive the car in winter too but would like to stay away from liquid gold if possible)

From what I know right now a good choice for my next oil would be 5w30(lots of FI seem to be running that grade or 0w30 of oil with good results for DD cars and light track use).

Don't need a flame war but any recommendations, advice, help or what to stay away from would be greatly appreciated. :thanks:

0W20 MOBIL 1
freeway driving 25+ miles
and back canyon roads

i <3 Boost

What color is the cap on your bottles of Mobil 1?

GREEN

Ah. AFE. HTHS 2.61.
Gold cap is EP. More esters. HTHS 2.7 (slightly thicker)
Good call.
FWIW I prefer GREEN.
Canyons.
Topanga?
OC?
CA climate is so mild.
Freeway miles a plus.
Out.
:scared0016:
where's bluesubie?

The sheer number of responses is staggering...*cough* *cough*.

You need an oil cooler and then just run 0w-20.

I run amsoil signature 0w30 with an AVO setup that maxes at 15psi

mobil 1 0w40 and I've got an oil cooler with a thermostatic plate

You compensate for higher oil temps by getting an oil cooler.

Supercharging your engine doesn't change your engine's oil weight spec.

and you start using heavier weight oil if desired pressure isn't achieved.

-alex

IMO, HTHS should be listed on the bottle instead of a viscosity range. Even between oils with the same numbers on the bottle (eg. 0W-30), you can have different film strength and oil pressure.

0W-30 isn't saying much, but a 0W-30 with a low HTHS like Mobil1 (HTHS 3.0) compared to a Euro 0W-30 like Euro Castrol 0W-30 with an HTHS of at least 3.5 will have the Castrol behaving more like a 40 grade.

Agreed. There should be precise, accurate, detailed information on the table for us consumers to make choices on.

I often ask myself what I would do if facing the types of dilemmas you guys do. At this point, I believe it would involve frequent oil changes, with a motor oil I had confidence in, but was economical in price.

It was surprising to read today, a link to an article, posted by an expert in the field, where he referred to a "Group III+" motor oil.

As someone who is big on base stocks, I would be interested in your thoughts, Dennis, on using Pennzoil Platinum Euro (GTL) vs using Motul (Group IV).

Do FT86 trackers really, really prefer esters?

I know in japan the racing oils for 86/brz is 5W-40 (actually STI racing Oil for BRZ is 5w-40 as well)....obviously not normal offshelf ones & cost a lot more. O.O... like this picture below.

It's pretty much accepted practice in the industry to refer to a base oil as "Group x+", even though technically no such group exists.

GTL's have been shown to match or beat PAO's in most categories, but esters are still considered the best. The problem with oils though is that you really don't know how much you're getting regardless of the base stocks used. If I added forced induction to an 86 and ran it on the track, I'd definitely want esters and higher levels of anti-wear additives though(Motul 300V/Red Line).

AZP Installs recently switched from 300V to non-ester based X-clean in their track car and I believe that oil is doing really well (not sure of any uoa's). I'm sure the higher HTHS and kinematic viscosity (compared to a GF5) will help, regardless of the base stocks. With Motul, unless you use one of their "Technosynthese" oils, you're probably getting Group IV and/or V.

This is a very good article on esters:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters...ic-lubricants/

I think most people will just bump up a viscosity grade of their favorite brand instead of switching to $12-$18 a quart ester oil. I'm surprised no one here seems to be running Group V vegetable oil:

http://renewablelube.com/gasoline.html
http://renewablelube.com/pdf/080617%...ine%20Oils.pdf

^^ You are right, (I'm Canadian) so a 12-18$ is more between 15-28$ for me so you are right in thinking that I would rather stay away from oil changes that cost me more than 150$ (SC'd with oil cooler) if possible.

Now hypothetically if esters would last way longer(1.5-2x) than any other basestock I could see the benefits and possibly make the switch but as it stand the benefits vs cost calculation just doesn't make sense to me for my applications (mostly DD with little to almost no tracking). Trying to find a good balance point between quality and price (as I assume most do also)

If I remember correctly, RLI once sponsored a drag car racer. Antimony was in their secret sauce. Shorter OCI's were reportedly in order. I talked to the owner on the phone one day. He was cool, and definitely pumped up about motor oil. They have some sort of motor oil supplement that sounded interesting. Somebody in FT86Club, give them a try.

I will be looking for new Motul UOA's from AZP. Yeah, I have utmost confidence in esters for high temp operating. The bitog ester article, I remember it talking about esters and TBN/TAN ratio. Don't forget about the "scavenger effect, " which distorts wear metal numbers sometimes. Great article.

BTW chaos, that's a lot of Yen !!

Out.

So I guess I should be fine just running an oil cooler and I can continue getting free oil changes from the dealer with 0W20 ? Down the road when my free oil changes run out I can look at running 5W30 if necessary for my Sprintex Supercharger.

Yup!