Turbo Woes
 

I've had just about every problem under the sun with this damn turbo. the fuel pump was a nightmare to get it (I'm not sure it's in properly), the car went into limp mode on the drive home from my tuner which I though was my pump failing. It wasn't the pump, one of the coolant lines over heated and blew spewing my coolant everywhere. engine overheated and cut, luckily no damage. Put on appropriate lines and no similar issues since.

The car is hesitating under load. I'm waiting to get a wideband installed so I can figure out if it's lean or rich, but I'm thinking starvation. I took it to a shop (way to frustrated to trust myself at this point) and they are saying pump and injectors are good and it's a tune issue.

Driving home from a car show this week I had major hesitation and rough idle causing a stall. One of the vacuum lines failed causing a vacuum leak. I was hoping this was the main issue, but the vacuum leak is fixed and I'm still getting hesitation under load.

I'm using a tune that was on this kit on another car that worked perfectly. I'm out of ideas at this point. I've got my tuner saying its mechanical and my shop saying its the tune.

I did find a loose v-band, but its connecting the wastegate pipe to the waste gate, so it should have any impact on the AFR. I can't get at it with the tools I've got right now without taking some major parts off the car.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92601

Found this thread, and I think my issue is identical but not sure what the tune changes were though. My tuner came highly recommended from other 86 owners running all kinds of boosted applications. Mine was tuned on a dyno.

My car ran perfect with no symptoms this morning (ambient air was 15degC vs usual 30degC and I dull pulls to 120kmph WOT after about 10min of driving as opposed to merging on a freeway after about 20min of driving. Starting to think it could be heat related.

Sorry for the long post, I'm looking to get as much insight as I can as I'm at the end of my rope with this project.

This is one of those cases that's extremely hard to diag with out seeing it. My guess would be something mechanical throughing the tune off. It's often best to just get a second set of eyes on the car, see something your missing. Who did the initial install?

I did the original installation. I took it to the shop for the second look but they are pretty much at the same point as me. I have a buddy who's done FI before who's gunna help me look it over as well

You say the tune is from a previous car, are you sure you have the exact same setup? Brand and size of injector, fuel pump, MAP sensor that sort of thing.

Plus who knows if that tune worked out well for previous owner..probably blew his car up, thats why he sold the kit.

Can you please post the turbokit brand, The turbo model used and other really helpful information? Like complete mod list on the car.

How could there be so many part failures? You need to address that first before you can start saying it's the tune. Furthermore you couldn't save up a little more money for a couple diagnostic tools to help see what's going on - afr gauge etc? This was going to be an expensive process so I suggest you be more generous with your money after you see all the mechanical issues are addressed. Was this your first big install of parts and why didn't the shop see these potential issues?


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button up all the half assed stuff,then get it tuned by a pro...

I bought the whole kit from my buddy and went to the same tuner. He ran it with no problem for 2 years. The only difference is he had the DW265 pump and I have the AEM 5210 pump.

Here's the relevant parts list
FA20 Club Turbo kit @ 7psi spring loaded BOV
AEM Meth injection kit 50/50 mix
AEM 5210 310lph fuel pump
Stock injectors
Perrin full exhaust
Omni 3 bar MAP sensor

Running on 94 octane

It was tuned by a highly recommended and respected tuner used by various performance shops in my area.

what fuel are you running?

I know the previous owner well. He sold the kit as he is changing platforms for racing. He loved the kit while he had it.

What mixture % of water meth are you running? And how is it being triggered?

Thanks tips, your assumptions are super helpful.

I'm not blaming my tune, I suggesting it as a possible cause. I was under no false pretenses that this would be expensive. I've bought a wideband and am awaiting shop time to get the bung installed.

The coolant line failure I can't explain as the set-up was exactly what was used by the previous owner. I still have to get exact details from my shop on the vacuum line issue.

This was my first big install and I have turned to this community to learn and ask for help, not be mocked and ridiculed. That isn't the point of these forums.

Petro Canada 94 octane

I've got 2 tunes (ECUTek) 1 straight gas 1 with meth.

I run a 50/50 mix meth to distilled water. There's a controller where at 3k RPM the pump starts running and from 5k to redline the pump runs at full bore.

I've been running the gas tune mainly but see these issues on both.

you can't expect a tune from another car to work the same on yours. engines are different. . .

have you verified fuel pressure is correct?
can you monitor your fuel injector pulse width?
have you checked for boost leaks?
is your MAF dirty?
have you verified your TPS is actually scaling properly?

Sorry if it came off that way. I mean just re read my post and answer the questions. They are questions to be answered if you want to diagnose and fix your issues I still say you need to make sure everything is mechanically sound before the tune is addressed as the shops are trying to blame each other.

Since this was your first install I would definitely check everything again and inspect the parts to make sure they are in good working order. Just be safe and no crazy pulls as you did when it was cold so that nothing happens to your motor.


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This isn't a smart ass comment but have you thought of matching his kit entirely with his setup; starting with I don't know but maybe getting a DW265 "DW65C" pump too? :iono:

I figure whenever you change hardware to something entirely different tune maybe required. :popcorn:

Think the going rate is around $149

My tuner used the previous tune as a base and tweaked it on the dyno.

I've got the wide band for afr and next will be a pressure gauge for fuel pressure.

I've checked for leaks but don't have a proper tester.

I'll try cleaning my MAF hadn't thought of that. How do I verify TPS scaling?

They are about $275CAD now and the pump I I actually has better flow capacity than the DW265 and has also been used by other members here.

Had a tune done after my install unique to my car done on a dyno by a pro

OK, this is the only thing I can really fathom but the damn EVAP is really hard to get to and some people are having issues with boost blowing the non clamped cars EVAP hoses off. Pull your intake off or whatever you can do easily and check the hoses to ensure you don't have a boost leak. The image below is with adding clamps. I have already pulled my AC off to clamp them to future proof.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...pspbl0nwwa.jpg

well, you'd need a volt meter, and a helper. should be 0-5 volts from no to full throttle. or, if you have a CANBUS you can plug into your obd2 plug, you can check to make sure it isn't glitchy by slowly rolling through the throttle.

now that you've overheated the car, be ultra sensitive to changes in temps, etc. check your oil for water often.

Any update on the issue(s) with your car?

She's been running great this week. Waiting on shop time to get the bung in for my wideband so I can monitor if the leaning issue is resolved.

Have you been "running through the 6" with these? ������. Couldn't help myself..

I got my wideband in last night and went out for a drive. I couldn't replicate the hesitation issue but I did see AFR values of up to 16 at the 6k rpm mark WOT that my tuner saw on the dyno.

I spoke with my shop and they took a bunch of logs and everything looked normal (fuel pressure, injectors, timing, knock sensor) and suggested the injectors aren't maxed out on duty cycle (which could also explain why it ran better cold). I'm working on getting the logs from them.

Waiting to see if I can replicate the hesitation issue with the wideband and try to borrow my buddies OFT for logging.

Update:
I pulled out my fuel pump seeing as when the tank was very low I was getting fuel starvation so i thought maybe the canister was mis aligned and not pulling in fuel fast enough to feed the pump. I found out that the design of the AEM pump fuel sock is causing it to choke itself. the sock is designed to pull fuel beneath the pump, but because it is longer that sock and with the pressure required to seal the canister on the tank, the pump is pullin fuel through about 10% of the sock area.

My next step is to replace the sock with one like the DW-65c pump that wraps up the side of the canister.

Does anyone make a replacement bucket yet for our fuel tanks and these bigger pumps? Zip ties and 2 out of 3 clips is a tad ghetto. Just a tad

Update: My fuel pump imploded on Sunday. So now I need to order a new one, turns out that was the root cause of all the fuel issues I'd been having with the car.

An aside - Lots of shops will say that you need to change the pumps to make HP. Not always true.

My tuner told me I needed a new pump and when I started having issues he said that he's never actually maxed out the stock pump. Kinda pissed me off.

I've heard around 250whp is where it runs out of juice, but I have no confirmation of that number.

Considering your not replacing the clutch or injectors. I don't disagree with your tuner. 200-225 ft/torque your clutch likes to slip and disappear.

Save your penny's

Do it the right way to avoid huge headaches in the future.

There's your problem(see bold) :barf:, especially if the tune was done by FA20club (the original tune that your tuner used and tweaked).

Take a look around the forum at what a nice rep FA20club (both the man and the kits) have gotten. Anyways GL with that and I hope you find what (all) that is wrong with your kit/engine. I will pray for your car it needs it:sigh:. Buy quality parts next time is my 2 cents (fa20club is cheap/poor quality to start with and you got it used)

The tune was a custom tune used both on my car and the car it came off of, tweaked for each.

I did my research and knew FA20Club was a useless vendor. I bought the kit because of how well it ran on the car it was on before, and I knew the seller. I did my homework on the kit. The installation could of gone a bit better, but you gotta learn somewhere.

My mistake was in the pump. I rushed myself and didn't get the right one and that has been the cause of the majority of my issues. I thought it was the pump from the beginning and it ended being the issue.

^^ That's fine dude just felt like yanking your chain a bit. Hopefully everything will go smoothly from now on for you.

Glad you found out a cause for your issues and hopefully the last one. This is why I mentioned the diagnostic tools in my first post - you would have seen a funky dip in the afr whenever the pump was acting funny causing you to run lean. That would have let you know that you fueling and/or ignition issues.


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Update: Finally got the replacement pump in under warranty, and the shop couldn't get it to go in. Out of frustration I said throw the stock one in and I'll deal with the pump later. As it turns out, the stock pump is holding the AFR perfect through very heavy loads where the AEM one was leaning out. It's still early, but I'm optimistic that this is solved now. Hoping to get it retuned and into storage all prepped for next year before it starts to snow.

For anyone else looking into FI, the stock pump runs fine on my tune at ~250whp on 94 gas and 280whp with meth injection.

Damn him. 😅


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