Brz turbo idle issue
 

Hey guys!

Specs:

Garrett 50 trim turbo
Tial Q BOV
Tial 38mm external wastegate
Greddy EBC
Mishimoto FMIC
Invidia N1 catback
The car is running on 11-12 psi on 90 octane because im in AK and the highest grade they have is 90 smh


So the issue is that every time i drive the car after the warm up, if i take it out of gear it dies, or if i sit and rev the engine after the warm up it dies as well, i talk to my tuner and sent him logs and he cant figure out whats going on!

Checked for boost leaks and vac leaks nothing!!! Took apart the whole intake manifold and fuel system didnt find anything wrong except all the lose vac lines but even after clamping all of the lose vac lines still having issues.
Help!!!!!

In for answers. Sorry I don't have them, but I hope you get things straightened out. Who made your exhaust manifold and down pipe?

Try putting this in the Forced Induction area.

Picture of the engine bay. Where exactly is that Tial Q BOV located and how close to the MAF?

11psi seems a bit excessive for 90 fuel.

What injectors.... and where is the BOV / MAF sensor? Is the MAF on a bend? Your tuner should be able to easily tell you what is wrong. If not then you should probably question your tuner and find another one...

This is the kind of question that no one here is going to be able to just give you the answer as to why its not working. We would need specifics on your turbo kit, fuel system, and logs... If you have aftermarket injectors there can be an obvious answer as to why the car stalls.

Does your BOV hang open at warm idle? I have the tial q as well and it would hang open at warm idle. MAF sensor location?

Did you recently install a light weight crank pulley and/or a lightened flywheel? My idle went to shiz after I lightened the rotational mass on the crank. If that's what happened to yours, your tuner will need to compensate

did you resolve this issue? I am seeing a similar issue.

Check for leaks around the MAF, check your MAP is in good working order, check your BOV is not hanging open. Those are all very common issues in the turbo frs world haha.

If the tests don't reveal any mechanical problems and/or boost/vacuum leaks, it's time to talk to the tuner

This issue can happen when the port injectors aren't scaled properly. Idle can be running DI or PI at different times. The stalling usually happens when you car switches from DI to PI at idle and the port injectors supply the wrong fueling. The car bogs and dies after.

Check your logs to see if your car is switching to port injection when it dies to confirm the issue. If so, it can be fixed via proper port injector scaling.

Cool. I will be doing a smoke test today so hopefully I find something. I am also getting a hard start. Cranks for a while before starting. Yesterday it wouldn't start at all after it stalled. Also, it happens more as the temperature goes up. I was thinking of checking out the cam and crank position sensors too.

If you have a cam position sensor trouble you would have a code show up with the trouble, either one from (P0016 to P0019, P0016 is the most common one as that is on passanger side, where most of the trapped heat is and damage things over time). If you dont have this problems I wouldnt be looking for cam troubles just yet. Get logs going, its the easiest way to find out what is wrong. If you can interpret them or pull conclusions from them, post them here, and Im sure some people would be glad to help.

Cool thanks. I had a misfire p0301 for a brief moment but that's haven't seen it since. I will get a log ASAP send it to Zach from delicious.

a local tuner had many issues with the tial bov sticking open so he usually sets the idle around 900rpm and that fixes the stalling issue

The only time I've come across this, not in one of our cars, it was the ECU protecting the cats from unburnt fuel. Get the car re-mapped by someone else?