Battery Cutoff switches ? post your setup
 

I am looking into a battery cutoff switch.

But there are so many out there, I am curious which one you use:

-> $10 cutoff of the negative battery cable ([ame="http://www.amazon.com/Support-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B00U5UBQE4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1433210293&sr=8-8&keywords=12v+battery+disconnect+switch"]here[/ame])
-> $70 cutoff with alternator protection (here)
-> $200 electrical solenoid system (here)
-> $400 solid state systems (Cartek)

Feel free to share your wiring setup :)

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/M/4430.JPG

Thanks.

In the race car I run one with alternator protection. In the other cars I don't run one at all. I might put one in the track car but that's because I can't get out of the damn thing when it's on the trailer unless the window is down, then I can reach the switch but have to leave the key in it.. so yeah..

wow now that is an expensive system, all we use is the cutoff with the alternator protection, why do you want all the rest? You also need to wire something that will kill the engine on the switch like ignition coil or injectors.

Just put the switch close to the window if you want a corner worker to be able to handle it.

What is the point of a cutoff on the ground?

Who was this to?


And technically I prefer 2 cutoffs. One for a corner worker on the right hand side, and one for a corner worker and driver on the left side.


I generally wire to IGNSW to kill ECU/FUEL/etc.

i was answering the OP, when i posted yours came up at the same time.

I have yet to see someone needing this so we didn't really bother going all out on a system where corners worker can kill it on both side. I guess if this is what you want than you kinda need the electrical stuff to kill it remotely.

Also depends on the rulebook you need to follow (if you are running with a sanctioning body that requires one). Last I checked, CCWS for example requires it to be reachable by the driver and in the middle of the car, or two, one outside and one center inside. As a legal workaround we have ours on the right side with a big steel cable pull to the drivers side and stickers/ID on both spots so it can be pulled from either side easily and from the driver. Works well for just about any way you can stuff the car into the wall.


I've seen an IT7 car years ago with the kill on the pass cowl, hit the wall hard on the pass side, cut a fuel line and the workers could never get to the switch (buried under tire wall). Driver got out but the car kept pumping fuel to the fire and was a total loss.


Ever since then I like to be able to access it from both sides - just in case. Still just a $70, no need for anything fancier.

yeah we thought about the wire thing too.

I have seen a guy with a cutoff on the wiper cowl too but he received something in the windshield (piece of debris) and the cut off went to off. He obviously had to stop the race because he wasn't able to reach to it and wasn't allowed to unstrap to go shut it close to finish the race.

that was his worst failure ever he said :)

The more expansive electric one allow you to only run a small switch wire to any location where you want to add a cutoff switch.

The cheaper switch force you to run a very large gauge cable back and forth to the switch location, not ideal.

But I assume the compromise is to keep the switch near the battery area, to limit the number of big electric cables and then run as many 'pull cables' as needed anywhere in the car (driver side, passenger side, center console). These 'pull cables' are pretty small I guess.

If the electrical solution were cheaper I think they would be a no brainer though...

Still last question anybody can show me where they connect to the alternator ?
Did you run a cable from you switch to the alternator and mount it there ? did you tap into a wire in the fuse box ?

Resister is added to the wiring to burn off additional electricity. You wire from alt to switch and then switch to fuse box where the alt went. That's off 5 year old memory but should be about right.

http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/f...ec_install.jpg

just put the switch between the battery and the positive terminal, take a wire from the positive side and wire it to the small contact and the other side of the contact goes to the resistor to the body.

What this does is that when you open the switch, battery stops feeding the car but the alternator still runs so the other contact needs to cut the engine (coil or injectors) and then the excess current produced by the spinning alternator will drain in the resistor where the contact closed when you opened the switch. (kinda hard to explain but the drawing will explain better.)

I will certainly be using one of these 6 pole switches. But now my problem is where is a good place to cutoff ignition and fuel ? the switch call for "igntion switch and coil"

I assume the fuse box under the hood has a wire I could connect to, which when disconnected would stop the ignition and fuel by acting at the DME level.

I saw this cool DIY on the porsche forum, I hope someone with knowledge of the FRS electrical system can help me out.

http://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum...right-way.html

The BRZ electrical diagram is online but it is chinese to me ;)

from what I can see the fuse EFI(IGN) should take care of the ignition and the fuse F/PMP should take care of the fuel pump. But, I am still thinking there may be a better place to cut everything but cutting power to the DME, but so far I am not sure where that would be ;)

I hope @chasebay can help us ;)

Phil.

i beleive i put mine on the 15A IGN, when you cut that signal you shut down the engine because it won't make ignition, that is all you need a signal to shut down the engine and the rest of the car becomes out of voltage because of the switch so as safe as can be.

Even though my car is up for sale I will be installing a killswitch on it in order to pass the NASA inspection, hopefully it will help resale value a bit.

I have prepared a shopping list with all the stuff I need, I found some interesting stuff on amazon so I wanted to share with you and see what you think.

I will use the 6 pole switch many of you have been using.
I was wondering what to do with the 2 fuse embedded in the battery positive terminal (graph below) and I found an interesting solution with the 'blue sea dual fuse block'. that should allow me to ditch the battery terminal and connect each cable to their own set of fuse, within a compact block that may be able to be connected directly to the switch. they did not have 140A so I went with 150A. Luckily they had an 80A for the other cable. It is very pricey but it offers 5 low amp fuse for the future.

i am planning for the switch to be located very near to the battery. So I found some remote control cable to have a disconnect on the driver side wiper cowl and place the official emergency sticker there.

the big thing will be to mount the switch neatly and have the whole thing waterproof. I may shop for some kind of plastic box for small battery.

After that I'll run some small 14gauge wire to the previously mention fuse to cut off ignition.

Tell me what you think ;)

ok so after looking at some options, I think I have 2 choices to make:

V1: CUT EVERYTHING
I cut off everything at the positive side of the battery, but then I don't control where the potential alternator spike will go. Hopefully it will not blow something in the electrical system before going into the resistor.

V2: CUT WTH HELP OF IGNITION SWITCH
I follow more closely the switch manual and tap into the alternator wire more specifically, which will guarantee the potential spike will go only to the resistor when switch is off. And use the other switch pole to cutoff the ignition wire.
Result is that same but the electrical cutoff is similar to removing the ignition key. There is still power in many wires around the car, even though the car will be stopped.

Anybody has opinion on the which way to go ;) ?
see my schemas attached, an also the 3 pages of the electric manual relevant to the install.

Hey Philoo - Did you ever get your kill switch successfully installed?

I'm trying to work out installing a Pegasus 4430 kill switch with the alternator protection contacts seen here:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/do...ocID=TECH00109

I have it all figured out except for where to splice in the ignition wires - one side goes to the switch, and the other to the coil. After an hour or so trying to make heads or tails of the wiring manual pdf - I'm even more confused lol...anyone have any insight into which ignition circuit to cut the switch into?

Just FYI for people, when setting up a four prong switch, set the main posts for battery hot, set the two small posts to the RED/BLUE wire on the alternator. ( Cut the wire and run one half to each side to the cut off.)

@Philoo
I would like to know also. Where on OE harness is best place to tap in?

I don't know how useful this is to you all, but this is how mine is set up. It worked when my car was stock ECU and it works now with my Haltech.

Short story is it interrupts IG2 MAIN fuse, wires enter the fusebox where the big trunk of cables does. It cuts power to the ECU but leaves the keyless entry and other stuff working.

https://i.imgur.com/yGyGbc8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IhRYH4l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/A2iUsCf.jpg

Figured I would share my setup on the newer (2025) Cartek X-Club Battery Isolator and how I got it setup so that it might help future 86 track people pass tech.

Thanks to @RedReplicant for sharing his setup. Greatly helped me get mine installed.

Hardest Part IMHO is getting that darn fuse box open. You have to disengage all the tabs on the sides at the same time and pull up. Once you have access to the bottom side of the fuse box you want the White/Black wire going from the IG2 Main 30A fuse to the IG2 Relays Pin 5.

Splice it at an even length and run some 14 awg wire from the two leads you created out the back of the fuse box near the big bundle; please crimp and shield all connections you make.

Attachment 226791
Attachment 226795
Attachment 226797
Attachment 226798

Since I like the idea of having the fuse between power and the ECU I opted to wiring in a 30A 4 Pin Relay to cut the power between IG2 Main and the IG2 Relay. The Cable from IG2 Main Fuse wires to PIN 30 on the Relay and PIN 87 on the Relay goes to the IG2 Relay Pin 5. The Engine Stop signal from the isolator is wired to Pin 86 and Pin 85 gets wire to a chassis ground.
Attachment 226793


Mount your external kill switch they provide to some place you want it ; I chose passenger side on the plastic cowl panel near where I planned to mount the isolator. Run the wires to the internal switch they provide ; mount where convenient or based on org rules. (Just remember the internal switch Black to Black and Red to Red as it has a light).
Attachment 226792
Attachment 226796

Prep the mounting area so the isolator makes good contact with the service, I drilled out 2 holes to mount some bolts through the firewall which you can reach from the inside from behind the dash amazingly; assuming you have all the ac stuff removed. Mount the two free grounds to the mount points. Make a battery negative cable and attach that to the isolator.

Make sure all your cables are ran and protected. Attaches the positive battery terminal and then the single battery negative connection and you should see a blue status LED.

Test the system out for any faults.
Attachment 226794
Attachment 226799

This was probably super clear based on Carteks instructions to some folks, however, sometimes I need my hand held :bonk:

I hope this helps others in the future.

@downshiftxlr8 Have you had any issues with your installation? The power cut wire X-Club version is only rated for 10amps, but the wire you replaced appears to be fused to handle 30amps. Maybe it never actually carries more than 10 amps and is fine.


I tried using a fuse tap to provide power to the protected side of the 7.5 amp IG2 circuit, but am having trouble with electronic noise. It throws codes and the car won't shut off with the key. I may need to clean up my wiring inside the fuse box area. I'm also a bit concerned that I might have the same problem with interference if I splice into the white and black wire.

I the X-Club is switching a relay i wired in between the IG2 wires, so when the kill switch is activated it flips that relay which closes that connection. Its not powering IG2 by any means.