Advise Please
 

Hi guys, here is my question. if my 86 is a garage car, do I need too do engine oil change still? appreciated any feedback... :thanks:

I think you are asking about letting your car sit for long periods of time. The old saying is: "change your oil every 3 months or three thousand miles." It is up to you.

If it's sitting all the time change in on set time interval like 9-12 monthes is better I guess.

or after 2 or 3 track days. =)

yea I keep it in the garage all the time and only take it out around the block one time a month for like 5 minutes to run the fluids...
Attachment 110727

kind of like I do... I drive it for like 15-20 minutes though

projekt zeal86 build

Why?


and beautiful garage

HOLY CRAP!
That is nicer than my living room. I am not kidding here!

And just for perspective DD, 4,000 miles a month, never been inside :

thats a badass garage!

and although i understand the idea of "preserving a car," i cant quite fully understand doing so with our cars. it's relatively cheap (for a fun sports car) and such a blast to drive that i feel like it's a waste to not drive it. even though i hate racking up miles on my car, i cant stop myself from driving lol

I got another dd and this one is like my toy and for now im just adding aftermarket parts...


Thank you..

Totally agree :thanks:

Starting and running it for short periods of time is just going to degrade the oil faster. The oil is never getting up to temp to boil off the water and fuel in it, so it's just accumulating from each short trip.

Definitely run it long enough for the engine to get to full operating temperature and for condensation to burn out of exhaust. Change the oil on a calendar basis depending on how often you start it. Sounds like annualy would work right now.

this makes sense thank you..

and you might want to think about adding Sta-Bil 360 to the gas tank....

My life would be so sad if I couldn't daily drive my BRZ...

I know Im depressed lol
Attachment 110769

other cars nearby had similar stain as yours had more crap stain, pigeons?

That garage is disgusting ...... you’re one sick puppy …… :D

Yep, like said above, if you're going to crank it up, take it out and drive it for at least 10-20 miles.


humfrz

Salt! So, so much salt!

[QUOTE]Yep, like said above, if you're going to crank it up, take it out and drive it for at least 10-20 miles.

How often I need to do that?

[quote=ricky rod;2266531] The more often the better actually.
Another reason to run it longer is to make sure you are heating the exhaust enough to dry it out. There is always some moisture pulled through the system in humid climates (I am lead to believe it can be humid in Florida) and if the exhaust is not warm enough to evaporate it than it just sits inside and starts to rust out any non stainless components.

Holy baby Jesus can I have your garage. Please? Pretty Please? lol

[quote=Tcoat;2266571]

Also, H2O is a by-product of combustion, then condensation as the exhaust cools down, etc.

[quote=OkieSnuffBox;2266602] Exactly.

[quote=Tcoat;2266571]Good point about a good warm up.

OP, I'd suggest you take it for a spin at least once every other month (however, I have no data to support that).

As mentioned before, don't forget about the gas stabilizer ...... that tank of gas will get really old before you take the cosmoline off of the car ..... :)


humfrz

Wao and I keep learning... Thank you guys!!!!

Question about gas in cars in storage, since mine will be doing that shortly.

I know ethanol degrades after a while and clogs fuel systems, but if I run it way down and then fill up with ethanol-free gasoline right before putting the car down for storage will there be an issue? Or do I just dump in a bottle of stabil and not worry about it? The only ethanol-free gas around here is 100 octane, which makes for quite an expense.

Just run regular E10, run it long enough the E85 is out of the tank, and drop in a bit of Stabil, you'll be fine.


I've literally let E10 gas sit in a project car for a year, when we were done, we topped it off and took it to the track, ran fine with no problems.


The E10 thing is blown WAY out of proportion.

I've seen it happen with aircraft deicing trucks that run on biodiesel and sit all summer long. Before they could be used again they all had to have their fuel systems completely torn down and cleaned out or they wouldn't run properly. Or at all. Granted, biodiesel probably has a different ethanol content, but you'd think that at some point mission effectiveness would come before saving the environment. Stupid Air Force...

Biodiesel is a markedly different composition from regular ol' e10 petrol.. comprised of monoalkyl esters of long-chain fatty acids (derived from vegetable oils or animal fats/parts)

Not sure how this stacks up to breaking down in reality but I'd imagine they would be much different

Biodiesel is a markedly different composition from regular ol' e10 petrol.. comprised of monoalkyl esters of long-chain fatty acids (derived from vegetable oils or animal fats/parts)

Not sure how this stacks up to breaking down in reality but I'd imagine they would be much different. @Ultramaroon @stugray @cdrazic93 any thoughts?


bad advice in this day and age.. blackstone reports, provided by many users on this site alone, are noting that the healthy change interval on our fa20's seem to be closer to 8-10k.

send in your next 2-3 oil changes for analysis to their labs and they will let you know themselves, with a cutting edge analysis to back it up :)

I think with the biodiesel it's more the vegetable oil varnishing just like gasoline, no? I don't think it's the alcohol.

Yes, ethanol is corrosive but fuel system components have been designed to take into account the change in the formula for many years now.

The custom fuel system on our Formula SAE car had all manner of handmade billet aluminum parts which would have been fine for e0 and maybe e10, dunno. But the whole system was ruined after sitting over winter with e85 in it. Every component had become wedged shut with thick aluminum hydroxide mucus.

It was tragic.

Biodiesel is just another hydrocarbon chain, like ethanol, petrol and methanol.

A quick search comes up with the formula for biodiesel which is C19H36O2, this is the methyl version, C19. The ethyl version is C20H40O2.

the burn is a combusion reaction style of formula (using C19) gives us;

C19H36O2 + O2 yields CO2 and H2O.

balance it out, then double it because combustion reactions suck, gives us;

C19H36O2 + 27O2 yielding 19CO2 + 18H2O.

Another search shows me that Biodiesel creates 2.5 kg of CO2 vs 3.2 kg of regular diesel. The only draw back is the energy created from the combustion, Bio has less energy then the petrol diesel, upping its CO2 kg output. Not enough to make it more pollutant than regular, but Id want to use Methyl biodiesel rather than ethyl biodiesel. Ethyl produces slightly more CO2 kg than the Methyl C19 chain.

The awesome sauce? (haha, becuase vegitable oil, biodiesel...ok ill shut up)

https://www.goshen.edu/wp-content/up...l-molecule.jpg
This is vegitable oil.

https://www.goshen.edu/wp-content/up...l-molecule.jpg
This is Biodiesel.

The Ester chain is what makes vegetable oil run in diesels, of which some rubber lines have to be replaced because of biodiesels soft permeating nature.

aaaand /Fin

dinner time.

P.S. for the actual car, use av gas. I watch chasing classic cars too much to not realize how many times Wayne has found an old ass car full of av gas and it starts right up.

:bow::bow::bow::bow:

Besides being a car junky ive always been one for chemistry haha

I got a D+ in Principles II. B+ in 101 at UW. After that I changed major to CS/Finance


Go fucking figure looool

The awkward thing is i got a D+ in both 101 and 105 lol

Recently removed the fuel lines on a car that sat with fuel in 'em for 30+ years. Not sure what the cutoff would be, but what came out of these lines and was in the tank was closer to tar than gas. Definitely try to keep the fuel in the tank low and use Stabil.