Lightweight wheels in 18x8.5?
 

Lightweight to me is starting at 18lbs a wheel and go down.

TWS T-66F (86/BRZ spec)
18x8.5 5x100 +42 56.1mm bore
6.90 kg (15.21 lbs)
http://www.tws-forged.com/tws_t66-f.html

Volk Racing CE28N
18x8.5 5x100 +44 65mm bore (needs hub-centric rings)
~7.30kg (~16.00 lbs)
http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products...&wheel=CE28N10

Volk Racing ZE40
18x8.5 5x100 +45 65mm bore (needs hub-centric rings)
~7.30kg (~16.00 lbs)
http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products...=ja&wheel=ZE40

Advan Racing RSII
18x8.5 5x100 +45 73mm bore (needs hub-centric rings)
~7.90kg (17.40 lbs)
http://www.yokohamawheel.jp/brand/ad...index_jpn.html

SSR GTF01
18x8.5 5x100 +45 73mm bore (needs hub-centric rings)
~8.0 kg (17.6 lbs)
http://www.ssr-wheels.com/wheels/gtf01.asp

SSR Type F
18x8.5 5x100 +45 73mm bore (needs hub-centric rings)
~8.0 kg (17.6 lbs)
http://www.ssr-wheels.com/wheels/typef_1516171819.asp

No surprise half of those are by Volk. Man though I wish they looked a little bit better though. Thanks man!

I'm still editing the list. Don't expect anything cheap. ;)

Sub-18lbs is difficult without going with the standard RPF1 in an 18x8.0 +35 (which I believe is right at 18lbs).

The question comes down to needs, budget and whether or not you can afford to potentially damage a hard-to-get, lightweight, forged, expensive wheel on the street. If it's for track-only use then a 17x9 RPF1 is a much better investment.

You the man! I expect them to be 600-1000 a wheel... willing to go as high as 800 a wheel if the gains are good enough.

TWS are the lightest in the $800 range. @CSG Mike should be able to set you up.

http://counterspacegarage.com/produc...orged.html?p=1

I like the design but are there any more concave styles?

You won't see concave without going 9.5" wide and +35 offset. Staying under 18lbs in those dimensions isn't easy. If concave looks are important then you might as well kiss an 8.5" wheel goodbye.

TWS are functional wheels intended for the lightest weight possible in a given size. Their offsets are high to keep the wheel tucked under the fender and minimize crap thrown back on the car.

I'd imagine going that wide will add about 2 pounds a wheel too, huh? Haha shit man..

There's also the Enkei RS05RR. 18x8.5 is a hair over 18 lbs. It has a front face though. The 18x9.5 has a middle face, but if you want a rear face (most concave), you'll need at least an 18x10, which doesn't come in 5x100.

I was looking at those. They actually look really sweet, I like them. Do you have any pics of 18x8.5 specifically? Google images has a little bit of everything. .

The ones that look so sweet and super concave on the stanced out rocket bunnies are probably 18x10 and 18x11 with rear faces and deep offsets. Sigh.


Here's a thread with 18x8.5+42 (front face). Still looks pretty nice.


edit: For some reason the link takes you to the middle of the page. Scroll to the top for pics.

Wish the car had more power to run setups like that? I wanna go with wheels like that but it's not gonna happen with an NA setup... I might go with the enkeis, but honestly the te37sl has been the wheel I've been eying. Can't find any other wheel that matches what I like.. stupid hard to find complementing wheels.

what kind of gains do you expect by getting slightly lighter wheels?

Eh, maybe should rephrase: lack of loss I guess? I'm going for larger wheels which mean larger tires, I did the math and it'll add about 2 pounds of rotational weight altogther if I go for the Michelin pss in 245/45/18 + some Volk Racing te37SL in 18x8.5 so it won't really help honestly, other than the enhanced grip and aesthetics... that I know of anyways.

Why are you looking for 18's over 17's? And yes, looking cool is a valid consideration.

I ask because, as light as an 18x8.5 RPF1 might be, a 17x8 RPF1 will be lighter.

It's my daily driver. I don't plan on tracking it any time soon so I'd rather it simply look great, as 18s look way better than 17s. The reason why despite that I want light is because I want it to look cool, but not take away from the performance. I looked at the RPF1s but 2 of my frs friends already have it.. I want something different than what they want.

Fair enough. I was looking at 18's for a while for just the same reason. I like the PF01's better than the RPF1's by the way.

They both look super sick, I totally respect your choice btw. What made you go with 17s instead of 18s then? Did you decide you wanted to track it? Or did you just want some better performance gains?

I'm still on OEM for the moment, although I did add 20/25mm spacers to look cool. :D Considering getting the wheels powdercoated glossy bronze.

When I do eventually purchase wheels, I will go with 17's for a few reasons. First, they're cheaper. So are tires. Wheels might not be a wearing item, but tires definitely are. Secondly, the ride is better. More sidewall = more cushion = better ride. My suspension is firm enough already, thank you. Plus there's that little bit of extra forgiveness to keep me from bending a wheel should I hit a pothole or curb or trick-or-treater or something. Lastly, they're less weight. Our cars aren't super powerful to begin with, so any additional weight, rotational weight at that, slows them down. While there are 18's that are pretty freaking light (TWS), most of their mass is still situated further out from the point of rotation than a 17, which is extra inertia you have to overcome with throttle and brake.

These cars look gorgeous on 18's. I'm particularly fond of Shiumai's and Jive Turkey's BRZs, Shiumai with 18x8.5/9.5 staggered, and Jive Turkey with 18x9.5 all around. They really nailed the sizes. It's just not for me.

2lbs is not a big deal despite what the internet leads us to believe. you might be able to feel it but i dont even know if the objective performance difference is going to be measurable. i know they tested that on an autox with a much more weight sensitive car and the heavier wheel actually posted the fastest time. not to say heavier is faster but its all within a margin that is pretty negligible

Tc105n's anyone?

Bolded part of your comment because this important

The gains will never really be goon enough unless you are TA car....

A potentially helpful data point for you.

I've got PF01 in 18x8.5 with Hankook V12 225/40/18s on them and the wheel + tire weight is exactly the same as the stock tires.

The 225s are slight stretch on the 8.5 wheels, but not too bad. Once these are done my next set will be 245/35 which will probably be a little heavier but not enough to matter.

That's really good to know actually. Makes me comfortable at least that's for sure.

Kinda look like the volk ce28!

TA?

That's actually really good to know. The pf01 in 18x8.5 is like 18, right?

The TWS T66-F 18x8.5 is approximately 15.6lbs or so. We sold our last set of 18x8.5s to a client in New Zealand.

I gotcha I gotcha. That's really true. I just wish my car filled in those fender gaps better with 17s! You're right though.

Oh sweet, you're here! Will the 18x8.5 clear bbks? And do you have any pics of that particular size on a firestorm frs? All Google brings in is what looks to be 17s.

We didn't want to risk putting our client's wheels on to test fit the 18x8.5 on a FRS just to preserve the finish of the wheels as best as possible. The 18x8.5 will clear BBKs without issue. @switchlanez has the 18x9.5 +45 in gold on his WRB BRZ. We have the 18x9.5 +45 in gloss gunmetal on our SWP BRZ.

I think it's actually 18.3, but once you get to those sizes the tires start to weigh a lot more.

The total weight was 41.5 IIRC.

That's awesome. So the factor in this case was the tire.. why does the v12 weigh so little for such a large tire?

Awesome. Good to know! And that's totally understandable, I just wanna be sure I'll like the look before drooping 2 grand on wheels haha

The OEM wheels are actually pretty heavy, over 21 lbs I believe.

So I dropped 3 lbs on the wheel even though I went to an 18x8.5. As it turns out the 225 V12s are exactly the same amount heavier than the stock Primacies as the wheels are lighter, so it balanced out.

My point is that if you are going to be running wide tires, you are almost guaranteed to be heavier than stock unless you go super light on the wheels ($$$).

Since you mentioned that this is primarily for looks, I'd suggest that you don't need the premium for ultra-light wheels.

They are pretty nice. Keep in mind, if you intend to put a spacer on them to flush them out with camber, you will need to run ARP extended studs with the spacer to work. There is no recessed section on the wheel simply because the wheels are designed for maximum strength at minimum weight.

Let me know if you're interested and we can chat more over PM. :)

It is for looks primarily but I do not want to decrease my performance by running a stupid heavy wheel and tire.

How easy are those to install and how much are they? Thank you btw!

Install time for the ARP studs isn't long. @dave_ROR did a DIY on how to do it.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21563

ARP Studs are around $36 per package. You need 4 of them.

If you're interested in the 8.5" wheels, let us know soon!