Zed Amps, Stereo Integrity Subs, Hybrid Audio 3way front stage, Audison Processing
 

Here are a few pictures of the work I've begun.

System as it will be when finished:

(2) Stereo Integrity BM mkIV's
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...70519031_n.jpg
Here they are taped up for safety on mock up installation.
https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...30949583_n.jpg
Which, I'm still on the fence about mounting regular or inverted.

(2) Minotaur III Zed Audio amplifiers, one for each subwoofer
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...59429905_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...89024835_n.jpg

(1) Leviathan III Zed Audio amplifer for the 3way active front stage
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...12193014_n.jpg

Audison BitOne for processing (external controller to be located in small cubby under HVAC controls)

Bass Knob for sub amp master, to be installed where USB/Aux jack is currently.

Hybrid Audio Legatia 6.5, 3, and R2 Pro tweeters yet to be installed. I hate it when equipment just lays around.

(1) XS Power D3400 hooked up to a toolmaker 2/0 double ANL fuse holder with 2/0 welding cable for the big 3 and one run + and - to the rear battery
https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...62534143_n.jpg

(1) Small kinetic audio battery (can't remember the model) also hooked up to a 2/0 toolmaker fuse holder with a small custom fuse board made of plywood and mini ANL fuses
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...06233231_n.jpg

One thing I've noticed is that when you push a set of twelves in this car weird things start happening. I'll post some more pictures below of the progress along the way, and I'll keep editing this first post with the latest and greatest.

As of right now these subwoofers respond very VERY well to low power inputs, essentially they are super sneaky subs. When I am listening to classic rock, the bass is mellow and not overpowering, yet I can FEEL the rasp of the guitar strings. When cranked up however, be prepared for it because it feels like an electric shock when you go from nothing to full output from the amplifiers and a twelve immediately behind the seat and one another foot and a half away. I also listed to some heavy bass electronica, which made me feel like a was in a full body massage, my face even felt like it was going numb. At full tilt it feels like it is just barely started to make it difficult to breathe. The biggest downside to my install I believe is how I've used the sheet metal as part of the box. The upper end sounds a bit tinny and I believe this might be some harmonics. Even though I sound deadened and installed layers of fiberglass on top of the sheet metal, the panel still vibrates out to the rest of the car.

Some more pictures of along the way:

Battery Mock up
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...12413913_n.jpg

Relocated all these electronics beneath the rear quarter glass
https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...38472427_n.jpg

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...02222990_n.jpg

Putting together the high output alternator
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...19736427_n.jpg

Cutting the baffles
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...05985968_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...06079687_n.jpg

Reserved for whatever

Damn impressive so far. I'm going with 2 12's, but not this direction. I'm very interested in your progress!

How deep are your subs, and what is the baskets' diameter? For this project some 12's fit, some 12's don't, and almost all 10's fit so long as they only require .5 to .6 cubic foot. But to be honest, I can't recommend this project after performing it myself. I doubt my airbag sensor is going to perform properly anymore.

Edit: Also some cutting is required, how much depends on how brave you are.

damn....

My subs are 5.75" deep, so they wouldn't fit. They also require ~.8 cu ft airspace. I keep changing my mind on how to install them, and probably changed my mind again this weekend. Luckily I haven't started (I'm out of town), so it's not too frustrating.

Awesome so far! Can't wait to see how this turns out!

Keep it up!!

love to see more

@AtlasMick
Really keen to see pics of how you created the side enclosures. Thinking of something similar

So... I thought you got a Singer Alternator a few months ago. Do something change?

The Singer unit seems like it will have better idle power, but it definitely makes me nervous about burning up the needle bearings at autox and track events. 7000 rpm * high ratio = lots of heat

any updated photos??

I did, but had to send it back for paint quality. Still waiting to install it and it is a externally regulated unit. I'm working on the wiring now for the external regulator and 80 amp relay.

No pictures just yet.

Does anyone know where I might find an accurate LED voltage readout?

Sorry to hear about the paint. I'm taking my time with this build... which is fine, since the stock system is pretty good.

My voltmeter is not the fastest or the best... but it lets me know when I'm running on battery vs. alternator.
Stinger Voltmeter: LINK to Sonic Electronix
http://www.mdxers.org/forums/attachm...-voltmeter.jpg

If I decide to build a sub it will be in the passenger side rear area like you did. Any idea what your volume is in that box?

I may pick up a couple of these subs now that Nick is selling them really cheap!

Sorry for the late reply.

So volume... really have no idea. My best guess is .4 cubic foot. It's definitely cramped and you really have to be ok with getting resin / fiberglass putty in your hair.

However, if you were to leave the rear seat back in, and then build some framing and stretch fleece over it, I'm sure you could get a larger woofer in there and I did the peanut method when I was considering that and got .75 cu ft.

Yes, update. I bought two more, so now I'm doing a rear seat delete to have four of these woofers in the car. Since the woofers under the quarter glass are in a smaller enclosure (thinking around .4 cu ft) and it's a bit leaky they play actually start getting completely boss below 30 hz but above that they have respectable output... leaving me wanting just a hair more. The rear seat delete woofers should have .5 to .6 cu ft and totally sealed as opposed to leaking, which I'm hoping will keep the upper sub frequencies playing strong.

Also, if anyone is interested in duplicating this setup ask questions because it's a total B**** making it up as you go along.

Here are some notes:

• The B pillar has a flange where the outer and inner part meets. I cut some of mine off to fit a 12" woofer but in reality, if you move the woofer out some you shouldn't have to do this. I did because I was mounting the woofer flush under the glass for aesthetics but I'm sure you could get it to look just as good moved out a bit into the cabin

• The B pillar is also "spot" welded to the car's rear quarter sheet metal. All along this pillar there are small slivers where metal is pressed against metal but freely lets air through. My first fire up of the woofers had tons of air flowing in and out of the B pillar. BEFORE using any fiberglass mat inside the cavity use some sort of strong putty to seal up this area.

• Also, use putty to seal up the inner and outer creases of the wheel well where it meets the outer sheet metal and on the inner side.

• Move all of the electronics / wires out of the way... yes just move them. The large silver box (no idea what it does) can be moved back on the inside of the cabin closer to the gas cap area. The air bag deployment sensors can be moved to inside the B pillars. and the ground cables can be moved anywhere else. Having wires in the way makes everything harder.

• Don't use home insulation expanding foam. Go get the super dense marine stuff. Apply in LAYERS, don't just throw a bunch down the hole either. Use some closed cell foam which won't absorb water to fill in some space in the bottom of the cavity and then layer the marine expanding foam on top of it a little bit at a time, leveling it out with a disposable plastic spoon until you get above the hole in the frame (sorry don't have a picture but you know it when you see it). Do the same thing to seal off the back, where the cavity connects to the trunk area, go as far back as you like as the further back you go the more space you'll have, peanut method go almost a 1 cu ft.

• For the top area use the lightest fiberglass mat or weave you can get because the heavy stuff I used just flops off after a couple of minutes. The light stuff can be held upside down by the sticky resin. A slightly heavier mat can be used for the vertical areas. You must use the vertical mat on the walls BEFORE doing any foam in the back of the cavity where it meets the trunk, foam first for the bottom of the cavity until you get above the frame hole and then mat and then foam again.

• Good luck and keep me posted!

I've been doing this in my head and I think I'm going to try a different tack. I'm going to cut cardboard for the sides, top and bottom of the enclosure so that I can get as much volume as possible and get a good fit with the cavity without having to use glass in the car. Once I'm happy with that I'll transfer the template to balsa and glue it together, then stretch grill cloth across the frame for the back of the cabinet. Looking at the bodywork of the car it looks convex, so I should be fine. A light coat of resin on the cloth will let me test fit and then I can go to town with the mat. Just thinking about this I'm getting excited, probably do it this weekend.

Post pictures when you're done, I'd like to see your method.

Here are some additional photos of work I did today...

Messed up a couple times
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...549217494692c9


Router table in a pinch
https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...27360071_o.jpg


Not the finished product, just a teaser
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...71397503_o.jpg

Here's the dimensions for the rear seat subwoofer swap if anyone else would like to duplicate...

Main piece is exactly 45.5" long by 20" wide using 3/4" wood. You'll need to use a cardboard or something you can easily cut to make a template for the corners and avoiding the center console but easy enough. I measured the console as being 19" from the edge to the cutaway and it tapers to 19.5" from the edge at the top, which is 5" deep... I hope that makes sense.

The cover piece, also made from 3/4" wood, is also 45.5" long and the tunnel is also cut at 19" from the edge, but it is a "nearly" vertical cut. This piece is interesting. If you are going to use two pieces instead of one, you can just cut two 6" by 19" pieces. To get the top level measure 6" on one end and 3.25" on the other, connect the dots and cut. Now in my picture you'll see it is taller than the top piece and that's on purpose, I added 3/4", so mine was 6.75" tall when I started cutting, and that was because I wanted it to be one piece and for there to be a lip so I could place things in the back without them sliding off and being lost under the front seats.


Does this mean we're all using Mitsubishi alternators?
https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...45&oe=54B0CAB9


Good night!

Spent a lot of the weekend in the garage.

Finished passenger side sound deadening (Raamat BXT2 and Ensolite) and ran power wires for amps.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps494f35d2.jpg

Spent quite a while relocating airbag sensor, grounds and whatever the little amplifier is in the pic.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps87916228.jpg

Rough idea of mounting location.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps634103bb.jpg

Started cutting cardboard for sub framework. Still have to trim off the top sheet metal tab.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps97092d87.jpg

More work during the week!

Loving this, great pics. Look forward to your progress.

End Goal

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...29666572_o.jpg

Awesome sub, they took forever to release it.

More work on the frame, bracing it so it holds its shape when I pull it from the car.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7b9107d7.jpg

The opening looks flat, but it isn't even close. The part where the top piece of tape is had a bump to the inside of the car; hammered it flat.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse134493c.jpg

Top template. Going to mount it to the car along the front, bottom and lower rear edge. The sheet metal is at least two ply there, sometimes three and that provides pretty flat surface to mount to.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps05959448.jpg

Frame out, grill cloth applied. Next step is resin on the grill cloth, another trial fit, then the mat and resin.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0a91f466.jpg

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps10931161.jpg

If you leave your box opening flat it won't affect being able to fit the box beneath the panel that goes over that opening. You'll have to shave off some of the plastic tabs on the backside but there is plenty of room behind it.*
So where you are holding up the cardboard template, you should be able to cut a 3/4" plywood piece a bit larger than you box/opening and drill and secure the box to the sheet metal. There is plenty of space to fit it behind the stock panel. Then cut your hole the diameter of the sub.

Here's some more progress on making the countersunk sub mounting holes.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...a59a1dcde1fe7e

I'm liking how this is developing. Since the sub I'm using only has 3.25" of mounting depth, I am able to sink the subs into the box giving it the look I want. However, if you have a regular sub and add in the 2.25" I've sunk it from the top... you should be able to fit any 12" sub with 5.5" of mounting depth in either the side opening or the seats.

Man, this looks real tempting to do! Not sure I have the time and patience to do it, though. Looks great!

Yeah, I wasn't very clear. The sides and back of the box will be fiberglass and I will bond it directly to a 3/4" piece of wood that is larger than the box itself, acting as the woofer mount and the lips to screw it to the sheet metal.

What I meant about flat was that when you look at the sheet metal lips you might think they are all in the same plane. They aren't, only the front vertical, bottom and lower rear lips are in the same plane, hence that is where the box will be screwed in.

I am looking at amps for this, haven't been serious about car audio for 20 years. Soundstream used to be the shit but when they sold out to a Chinese company things went downhill fast. I see though that they have reintroduced the Reference series and the specs are as good (or better) than the originals and they cost a hell of a lot less. Think I'll be driving the fronts with a Reference 2.370 and get a second to push the sub.

Atlas since this is your thread you still ok with me posting progress here or should I start my own thread? Just don't want to step on any toes...

Awesome install AtlasMick! I'm in the planning stages of my own audio upgrade right now, but nothing as extreme as what you're doing. I have been considering Hybrid Audio speakers and I see that's what you're using. Any info you can give me on them compared to others like Hertz or JL? I'm likely going with the Stage III or IV two-way setup, though nothing's set in stone.

Having used them and been thoroughly unimpressed I would NOT spend the money on Hybrid again. For what they cost I think there are much better options.

Which level were you using? I picked up a full set of the legatia SE's from people on caraudioclassifieds for pretty decent prices, but also stuck with a crossover 2-way I'm not going to use. I dropped one of my tweeters and haven't listened since so I am really hoping I didn't mess it up. I mainly chose them for cosmetics though so really in all honesty if you are covering the speakers up I wouldn't buy any Hybrid Audio stuff and I got the top of the line to make sure I was getting the best. There are much more "economical" choices out there, but if you have cash to blow they aren't going to disappoint.


Hey, definitely post your stuff here. We are both doing similar installs so for people wanting to get info, having two presentations is most helpful.



Well, my experience listening to Hertz in the store was that they weren't any better than the alpine type r's, I said I couldn't hear a difference when played off of the same amp and the guy was like "HOW DO YOU NOT HEAR THAT," I guess I just wasn't jaded or whatnot like the salesman might have been. However, I love JL's company desire to have the best products and dispel audio myths. You cannot go wrong with JL, so if you don't care about cosmetics and you can afford them that is what I suggest for you.

*edit: yea don't buy Hybrid audio subs. Not worth the money, I was only speaking about their mids and tweets.

I've owned the Legatias and the SEs. I wasn't in love with either set. They're good a detailed, and clinical, but also boring as hell. The tweeters, the R2 Pros, were especially disappointing. I've told Scott on a number of occasions that he makes good drivers, but they're no fun to listen to. I actually MUCH preferred an older combo of Dayton Reference mid and midbass with an old Kicker ND25 tweeter. For what he charges, Morel, Dyn, and Scan-Speak, are better options IMO. I also want to hear Andy's new AudioFrog line.

I'll agree with the "clinical" aspect of your review. The response curve is pretty flat and that's going to sound funky to the human ear because our hearing response isn't flat. 'I think' the point of those speakers is to reproduce exactly what your source is putting out, and it does exactly that extremely well. That's what I'm going for because I've also got an Audison Bit one and the controller that'll have 4 programmable EQ curves. Some music is already EQ'd for you, so flat would be the best option in that scenario, other music isn't Eq'd because they might assume your system is EQ'd already so you would need to switch it up then. So really, in my opinion all systems need EQ but it can get expensive to get good EQ that's adjustable all the time on the fly.

The audio frog has people talking. In a nutshell though you don't have to spend lots of money for great sounding drivers, I'm just silly because I wanted everything to be blingy.

Oh I know. I don't tune for flat. It's not the clinical aspect I don't like. It's that they're lifeless. Dyns are flat. Scans are flat. Morels are flat. They all are more enjoyable to listen to than the HATs. Don't get me wrong, HAT is good, but there are better options in that range. I'd import some Etons before I ran HAT again.

Some Updates
 

Router broke and had to fix it. Thankfully milwaukee keeps diagrams and a list of parts to order online.

Broken fan assembly
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...c603cdf8b8137a

Fixed
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...f921c159d98275


Then prepped the area for fiberglass and did a test fit of the top and subs. Still thinking about how I want the subs oriented not that it is super important right now.
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...1f&oe=54B2D7D4
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...9b2115695562ca
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...adb0265e77aaf9
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...ef398b860bfb5d
https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...ee&oe=54F3557A

Any updates on your car toast?

I've got some fiberglass down in the bucket seat area but nothing that looks halfway decent yet.

Took some pics today, put them up later. Fiberglass box is done, just adding some more 'lips' on the box to bolt on the front plate. One more round of fiberglass tape work tonight and i will be ready to screw it into the car. My sub amp arrives tomorrow so I can hook everything up.

My plan was to use the rear channel speaker signal in the high-level input of the amp, but now that I think about it I'm not sure that signal is full range since I don't see any caps on the speakers themselves. Anyone know if the rear channel is high pass only or full range?

Final fiberglass coat just done.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps63315da1.jpg
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb65f627f.jpg

Position in car

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3eeefce3.jpg

Should be full range.