Need help installing my avo turbo kit
 

So I just finished purchasing the avo stage 1 kit. Any tips on what I should look out for when installing, what tools I'm going to need, what I should be careful with?
ANY VIDEOS on how to install it?


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Go here, and read. And then....read some more. Lots of useful info.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42482

Like @gdrider77 said, follow that link and read up. On page 21, I made a list of little things that came up during my install.

Truth be told, the install isn't all that hard. Personally, I found the hardest part to be the oil pump install. It's in an awkward spot, so take your time or you'll get sealant everywhere.

-Jack Stands
-Basic socket set
-Basic hand tools
-Toyota FIPG Sealer (for the oil pump install)
-A bit of extra oil
-Subaru Super Blue coolant
-Drill with a stepped drill bit (to widen the holes on the crash beam and washer bottle mount)
-Rivnut tool or the knowledge on how to set a rivnut with a bolt/nut/wrench (youtube it)

It also helped to know what your'e getting into. I read this a few times before I started:
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/me...it_install.pdf
**for the actual install, use the instructions that come with your kit. These may be out dated.

I just finished installing mine and doing some final adjustments last weekend. Went really well I think.
I've got a lot of hand tool around but the thing I had to run out and buy was a set of crowfoot wrenches for the oil fittings. Just couldn't get in there with a regular wrench or socket without taking a bunch more stuff off. Good luck and have fun. It's worth it. And use a lot of ziplock bags to separate all the little scews and pop-its when taking the front end apart.. There's sooooo many.

I would check the flatness of the manifold flanges first and make sure you only use the AVO approved gaskets.

King Tut has great advice. I didn't check the flatness of the manifold before I installed it but the kit I got beginning of March came with new manifold gaskets so that was great.

You might also want to leave the under cover off for a few days after install just to make it easy to check everything is still in the right place and that manifold bolts are still tight. They will settle in after a few heat cycles.

I'm sort of disappointed that AVO hasn't sent out the gaskets to those of us who have an earlier kit. Is that unreasonable?

Probably the biggest thing people don't do.

Ask for a checklist of parts, go through the checklist line by line, make sure you go through all the parts and that they are the correct parts. Please do this well beforehand, prior to tearing down the car to install it.

I've been shipped incorrect parts before, and a friend of mine didn't have some of the gaskets/vbands.

Will I have to do some data logging beforehand? Or can I just install it than tune it later

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You can simply install and tune after. Wouldn't hurt to datalog some baseline stuff, but not necessary.

Attachment 72999Attachment 73000Attachment 73001

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Nice!

The one T-Bolt clamp I haven't replaced yet is the one on the Turbo inlet (PIC 2). Can you do me a giant favor and measure the diameter? The only thing I can offer is a "thanks" on your post lol :)

Yea I'll get the measurements, give me some time ok


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Thanks man, you're a beauty!

This is the measurement I need

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...33639582_n.jpg

Just confirming we're talking about the same thing!

Thanks again

Hmm...
:barf:

lol sorry. Translated from Canadian hockey lingo, that actually means "You're a good guy" and not "i want to make out with you"

The turbo inlet doesn't see boost so a normal hose clamp is fine, plus nobody can see it all hidden down there anyways. ;)

I'll Check today when I get home, was going to check it yesterday but there was a tornado and my shack where I keep my tools is pretty far from my house. But hey I got one more question if you could help me out. I might sound stupid but, must I drain my oil before I star or any other fluids? If no, would it be a good idea to get my oil changed at Toyota one more time before I void my warranty?

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Does anyone have the actual turbo specs on this?
I know its a hybrid of something....vf39? And 18g?

Wheel sizes, trims?

David

Thanks, and no rush at all.

It's not required, but I changed my oil after the install just because. If you don't, you'll still have to add a little bit of oil since the lines, turbo, and oil reservoir will have increased the oil capacity in your car. You won't lose any oil during the install unless you're doing it wrong lol. Both oil tap locations (galley plug and back of the cam) are mounted on top of the engine, so everything would of drained down.

You don't need to drain the entire coolant system, but you will need to top it off since you will lose some coolant when replacing the lines. Make sure you use the right stuff. My BRZ needed Subaru Super Blue.

1L of 0w20 from the dealer and a jug of coolant shouldn't run you more than $30 or so.

The only thing I've seen is that it's listed as an AVO 18/49 Turbo. I'm assuming 49 is the trim since it's not exactly known for it's giant power numbers? edit; Or maybe the a/r? I have no idea, just speculating lol

It's pretty much a standard 7cm TD05-18G turbo. So it's larger than a VF39.

I left the measurements at the shop :(
I have it written down. I'll give it to you later today



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Does anybody have pics of where each line goes connected from the turbo?

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here are some pics:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3753/...977e79f9_h.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/...37192287_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7324/...c9fafa2e_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3752/...3a9bd33b_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7227/...c63d937c_b.jpg

Sorry I don't have a pic of the water line that goes to the heater hose return pipe at the back of the engine.

here's that picture... at the end of the pliers with the clamp.

This is where the coolant will come gushing out when you take it off.

Also have a picture of the oem coolant hose that gets removed. It ran along under the intake manifold. hmm.. Damn I didn't put the braiding on the new hose.

Good team work

I concur

I wouldn't worry too much about it. I'm just anal and do stupid things that are not necessary.

Attachment 73337 which route should this hose go on the turbo, the blue side or the red side. It's the short hose

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Direction of coolant flow through the turbo housing doesn't matter.

Whatever lets the hoses fit best for you.

Really? Is yours already running or are you in the process of installing it to?

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I just find it kind of odd but ok. Thanks ALOT!!

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Just went through the install three weekends ago; and it runs like a solid diet of taco bell burritos.
If it wasn't mentioned already, check all the bolts, nuts and alignment on everything that came pre-assembled from AVO. I'm sure you notices as you went through the parts list that some of it was already installed. That doesn't mean it is tight. just fyi.

Ok and how about this? If I don't have the breather can I just cover it with something? Or must I have a breather to run the turbo?

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Attachment 73360

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There should have been a long hose that came with the kit for the breather. I don't have the catch can yet so I put a little breather filter on it for now. (or zip tie a rag if you want to go for a quick ride).

Game of Thrones in five minutes.. I'm out..:thumbup:

Ok was the ago turbo kit suppose to come with a bbov

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^ This...

Yeah it really doesn't matter.

The BOV is additional to the kit as far as I know.

So I don't really need one asap correct? I can just plug the tube that connects to the air box with a plug correct? As well with the tube that connects with the throttle body? Also must I have a boost guage? And how do I find out what psi the turbo is set to? This is my first turbo installation so sorry if I'm starting to annoy anybody, its just that I don't want this engine to blow fail on me

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You can just cap the bov ends, but if you go up past the 5psi base, you'll want to get one. AVO makes an OEM style recirc BOV which is a minimum imo, but you can just cap the two ends (don't attach them)

You dont need a boost gauge but I would recommend it. I suggest an aem failsafe so you have boost and afr in one spot , and will be able to see 2 critical bits of data to prevent blowing up your engine

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Sorry, double post