I need help choosing rims...
 

Looking for suggestions on what rim would be a good choice for me. I've been looking for a while and I still cant put my finger on exactly what I want to go with. I do have some specifics nailed down though:

They need to be OEM size since I already have PSS tires to put on them, I also factory suspension.

I do plan on autoX and PDXing the car often, but just for fun.

I have a budget of about $700 dollars, $750 tops.

Any and all suggestions to look into would be much appreciated!

Oh yeah, they will be going on an asphalt FR-S.

I personally really like Rota titans. Inexpensive and fairly lightweight. 17 x8 weigh 17lbs. And they are in your price range. 17x9 's are 17.8 lbs.

Go on Nasioc forum and try to find a set local. I got my set for $700 (Older set of SSR Type Cs).
Same hubcentric size and lug pattern as our cars.

Not an expert but read knockoffs like Rota's do not hold up very well.

Do you live in a pot hole free area? Anyone can correct me if im wrong.

If you are staying OEM size you can get some Enkeis for around that price. You can probably get some used Rays as well. If you want to go all out and go with 17x9s you can get Rota Titans for about 700 bucks.

How do you classify a knock-off?

Is it construction method? Are all non-forged wheels knock-offs?

Original design? How did you determine what mfg had the "original"?

Original style? How did you determine what wheel was the "original"?

Lastly what about the stock wheels, are they knock offs? Many people autoX and track on them and they hold up great. What criteria above make them better than "knock-offs"?

Like I said I'm not an expert just in other threads ppl have classified rota as knockoffs and fragile. Idk what though.


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Thank you guys, Ive been looking a lot and I think I did actually find the set for me. lol, its funny because they look A LOT like the stock rims which I like so much, but even a little better AND a little lighter :o)

http://www.tirerack.com/images/wheel..._maa_ci3_l.jpg

What do you think?

Rota Titans. Don't let people tell you Rota are bad quality. They are 1 piece cast wheels. Looks good and they are about 3LBS lighter then stock.

Rota's have come a long way from the "old days" Don't let the "knock off" idea scare you off. The difference between rotas and "real wheels" is usually whether they will crack or bend. Good news, is that if you crack a rota, you still have a spare tire ;) Also, it's going to take a lot to crack one. The pot hole idea is a little bit of an exaggeration…..unless it is a BIG pot hole.

Enkei Fujins are in your budget, and are lighter with better fitment than the T-Forks (+40mm offset 17x7.5 wheel weighing 17.1 lbs versus a +45mm offset 17x7 wheel weighing 18.2 lbs)...

http://vracer111.smugmug.com/photos/.../i-ZFbmv9X.png

http://vracer111.smugmug.com/photos/...-wMd6f9P-L.jpg

Ok, so I checked out the titans and theyre not bad. I like them in both black and hyper black, but I dont think they will work with my tires? (PSS, 215 wide) Also, the fujins are a model that I was considering for a while and theyre not bad either but they just dont do it for me :o/ same thing with the RPF1, I mean obviously yes they are a really good choice and TONS of people are using them but for whatever reason I just dont care for the looks of them. I guess Im like 60% form 40% function on this. Im still really digging those T-forks, almost certain thats exactly what Im looking for. I do appriecate all of your help and sugguestions, and Id like to hear some more if anybody has any.

I am curious though about when you say better fitment, CAN 215 wide tires be fitted to 7.5 wide rims? and if the offset is 40mm isnt that further away form oem than 45mm? Im not gonna lie, I have never purchased aftermarket rims before in my life and I really want to get this right, and hopefully learn a bit along the way. Thats a big reason Im trying to keep everything as close to factory as possible, I dont want to just go "modding" my car without understanding exactly what Im doing and why Im doing it. Also why Ive decided 'what the heck, I had better start asking around no matter how dumb I might sound lol'

As far as I can tell, and correct me if Im wrong because I very well could be, the factory rims are 17x7 48mm offset. So if I go with 17x7 45mm offset, that is only 3mm away from factory, and its actually 3mm wider than factory, so thats a good thing, right? Or if anything a nearly inconsequential thing.

If the 215 tires do fit on 7.5 wide rims and the offset is 40mm, wouldnt that make it 8mm wider than factory? Possibly creating the 'poke' stance that people (myself included) want to avoid?

Im trying to learn and 'see' as much as I can using the fitment calculator in the sticky but as good of a tool as that is I just need more practical insight, I suppose.

Alright, so it seems you want to get a nicer set of wheels but without having to worry about rubbing. Well, you won't have to worry about rubbing unless you get some much much wider wheels. You can run a 17x9 with a 42mm offset with zero issues on OEM suspension. If you are sticking with a 17x7 wheel, you have no issues what so ever with fitment. Even if you decide to go a bit wider at 17x8, you won't have to worry.

I suggest 17x7.5 or 17x8. Good balance that allows for wider tires but will clear stock suspension no problem. Just don't get some crazy offset like 30 or below. 35-45 is the sweet spot.

The OP has a budget, the wheels I suggested fit in it.

Many other members here run rota titans and can attest to the fact that they are not "fragile".

I've been looking at Rota Grids in that price range, or some nkei's. No specific one because I keep changing my mind everyday on the wheels I want, but I have the same price range as you.

I know someone mentioned these, never heard the brand, but 15lbs each if weight is big for you
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel..._16&sort=Brand

I love the knock off excuse. I had knock offs on my truck. I treated that truck very rough and they held up. I can't see paying $500 a wheel just for the name on it, because at the end of the day, if you smack a curb at 45, it'll be damaged no matter what brand you have on it. But oh well, most are internet warriors thatbelieve what 1-2 people online say instead of the people that have them or real facts.

I've seen plenty of horror stories about well-known brands cracking under normal conditions also.

BTW does anyone have HRE's

http://www.hrewheels.com/gallery/sci...k-brush-tinted

Nick C.

Almost every 215/45-17 tire made is designed to fit up to an 8" width rim. The wider the rim you put it on the more responsive the tire becomes, and this is more important with the tires known to have "softer" sidewalls. The tread width of the 215/45-17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport is 7.7" which is just barely wider than the 7.5" width measurement, an ideal measurement to me. If your tread with is way wider than the wheel width that means your tire is mounted closer to the minimum width wheel it was designed for and will not be at its most responsive potential. Tire compound is much more important than tire width for grip. So if you want as sharp handling as possible with grip you go for the sticky compound tires where your wheel rim is at the maximum rated width for the tire size.

As for the offset, a +40mm 17x7.5" wheel is still tucked way inside the fender - not even close to "poke". A +40mm offset on a 7.5" width wheel will be ~ 14mm further out than stock. I also have +36mm offset 17x8 Kosei K4R wheels for track duty with stock size but sticky Kumho Ecsta XS tires which fill out the wheel fenders more but are still inside the fender with room to spare...

http://vracer111.smugmug.com/photos/...-pGTdhKx-L.jpg

http://vracer111.smugmug.com/photos/...-FTvkGpk-L.jpg

http://vracer111.smugmug.com/photos/...-crZ8d54-L.jpg

The FRS feels more planted with a wider offset setup, and looks better as well not having the wheels being sunken so far inside the wheel well. It will be putting a little more stress on the bearings, but nothing that would make you need to change them out in a noticeably shorter interval than normal - unless you heavily track the car on sticky tires. If that's the case, then wheel bearings would be considered a consumable anyways...

Those are VERY nice looking rims. I will look further into those, thank you.

Ok, this helps me tremendously. I was under the impression that if I was going with the stock tire width, it would be best to go with the stock rim width. If what you say is correct then I can definitely open up my options for rim sizes to anywhere from 7-8" wide as well as a 48-40mm offset and still be okay given the tires I will be fitting. And now I better understand the trade offs between them. So maybe Im not as limited as I thought. This is exactly why I decided to jump on here and ask for advice and thank you so much for helping me. Im still about 3 weeks away from my 'deadline' to make a final decision and as I sort of anticipated, I have a TON of options still to weigh. In any case, I'll keep looking and with a better understanding and even more confident I will find the right rim for me. More suggestions and advice from would be great, and I will continue the post options that are appealing to me.

I'm in love with these but have no info on them, saw them in a post on the forums.
http://club4ag.com/Wordpress/wp-cont...ars-100-12.jpg

These are trd rims. They sell for 235each and come in a staggered setup with a 35mm offset

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look for them on toyotaparts.com site

Those look A LOT like the Five Axis rims. And they very well may be, considering the design work they do for toyota.

http://www.fivead.net/wheels/s7-f/s7...-gunmetal.html

Unfortunately, they are prrretty far outside my needs, but yes I am a fan LOL

HRE is one of my favorite wheel manufacturers, but a nice set of them will definitely set you back some serious $$$

Nick C.

You can't go wrong with RPF1's. You could probably find some 17x8 in silver in the 800s

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