what oil are you boosted guys using
 

when mrp installed my kit they switched my oil to rotella 15-40

Currently using Valvoline VR-1 10W-30.

Do you mean Rotella 5W-40, 10W-30, or 15W-40?
http://www.shell.com/rotella/products.html

A 40 grade oil is too thick, unless you have built internals, IMO. Rotella 10W-30 is probably a good choice for break-in though. Some boosted guys are using 0W-20. They're just using oils with robust base stock and additive packages instead of jumping up two viscosity grades and experiencing unnecessary drag. :thumbsup:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1180901

-Dennis

Im using Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 but once I reach the 3000 miles I'll be changing to Motul or Purol.

Motul 300V 5W30.

I wouldn't recommend a 40 weight at all.

@CSG Mike

Where peak summer temps reach maybe 90-95 degrees max for say a week would 300V in 0-20w be sufficient for FI setups?? Avg ambients daytime summer being 75-85f and 35-55f at night.

I've been running Motul 300V 0W-20, it got pretty dark after 4-5k miles. Should I run something a little heavier?

That's just the detergents/dispersents (along with the ester base stocks) doing their job cleaning and holding contaminants in suspension. If you have sufficient oil pressure, then you shouldn't need to go any thicker based on the oil getting dark at 4-5k miles.

-Dennis

Redline 0w20, perfect UOA after hard track time.

Mobile 10-40 :) 25,000 boosted and strong

Motul 8100 0w-30

Which 8100 exactly ? :)

X lite

Amsoil 10w30

The Frozen North

Yeah, that narrows it down. :)

Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30
Amsoil XL 10W-30
Amsoil OE 10W-30
Amsoil ZRod 10W-30
Amsoil Dominator 10W-30
Amsoil OE Diesel 10W-30
Amsoil SAE 10W-30 Heavy Duty Motor Oil

-Dennis

Lol. Just signature series

The Frozen North

After specing the motor we decided to run 0-20w only until we do a full build due to the tight clearances. We chose Pur-ol and have noticed cooler temps and it has shown WHP improvements on the dyno over the other leading oils.

I'm just rocking 0-20 Mobile 1. I have no way of reading oil pressure. Might start pouring in 5-30 in the summer. I change my own oil every 2,500-3,000 though.

For cooler climates in general would the Motul Ecolite 0-20 or Enos Sustina 0-20 be perfectly fine? Minimal if any tracking involved and boosted.

Amsoil signature series 0-20w

If you have an oil pressure gauge that shows that you're maintaining sufficient oil pressure, and have performed 3-5 consecutive uoa's showing that the oil is holding up and uoa wear metals look ok, you're probably fine running those oils.

However, with forced induction, I would feel more comfortable running a street/race oil like Red Line or Motul 300V 0W-20.

-Dennis

10w-30 Mobil

It depends on your oil temps. If you have a cooler, you should be okay. Otherwise, you may want to use 5W30.

Ok good stuff. I'll be getting the SC etc through you anyhow so hopefully by that time JR has their OC ready as an add on for kit.

It was just finalized yesterday, and will be shipping in a few weeks :D

Why not 5-40 All boosted subarus run it and its what they use in WRX and STIs

Bearing clearance iirc


Sent from my IBrick

10-30 mobil

No one likes German Castrol 0W-30 ?

sorry to threadjack, but what should we use if running E85? 10-40?

If you're running e85 exclusively I'd run a e85 compatible oil such as Brad Penn 10w40. E85 has been known to break down regular oil although I'm not sure what exactly it does to it.

The Frozen North

I run Valvoline Syn-power 0w20. No issues here, although I still change my oil every 3k or before due to not driving my car much.

What is the opinion on Amsoil Dominator grades: 5w-20 or 10w-30 on E85 only setup?
Also I live in Texas where it can be low one day and hot as balls next and the stop and go traffic sucks. Would it be better to run a lighter weight oil ? I should have all my parts in to go boosted in 2 weeks. I want to make sure a fresh oil is changed and in great standings.
I have kept my oil changed every 4.5k and first oil change was at 1k miles. Been running Amsoil Signature 0w-20 since 1k mile change.

10-40 is to think for the clearances in the stock motor FYI


Purol has been tested with E85 and shows no signs of breaking down. This is yet another reason we use and recommend the oil for any vehicle. We DD/track our car in the desert area seeing summer temps of 120F+ with no problems.

IMO, Dominator 5W-20 should be fine and you can verify this by doing a used oil analysis at around 3,500 miles. The ZDDP level is higher than Motul 300V 0W-20 or Red Line 0W-20 (IIRC). It has a decent amount of calcium as a detergent/dispersant, but the TBN is sort of low so 4,500 mile OCI's would probably be the maximum. The viscosity at 100C is on the upper edge of a 20 grade oil, right at being a 30 grade. It also has the High Temp High Shear of a 30 grade (3.0) so oil pressure would probably be the same as many 5W-30's, but the oil probably would not shear as badly as some of them do.

RL or 300V will have a slightly higher TBN for longer oil drain intervals, although I wouldn't push any intervals on E85 much beyond 3,750 miles without a used oil analysis in your car regardless of someone claiming that an oil can handle E85. I've seen some STI Rotella T6 uoa's on E85 where the oil was spent by 4k miles. OTOH, I've seen some good uoa's on E85 as well.

Here's a VOA on Dominator 5W-20:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1247342

I would use Amsoil's Oil Analyzer's Inc. for your uoa. It's cheaper than Blackstone and you get TBN, oxidation, and nitration included.

-Dennis

I currently recommend only a good 0w20, I'm running tests on a high zinc version right now. From our engine teardowns, looking at clearances and oil paths, I wouldn't recommend anything higher except for pure track builds.

Unless u have a built engine with different clearances

The Frozen North

10-40 what I use since my first oil change :)

I picked up a bunch of German Castrol 0w30 for $2.40/qt on clearance. I got 3 oil changes worth of oil, so I'm set for another 15k miles on oil.

I do track the car occasionally, so I figured the 30 would be better suited for some track time. I may go back to the 0w20, but I was having issues with the idle dipping pretty bad with the stock oil. Once I switched it to the 0w30 the idle dip went away. Not sure I'm sold on the 0w20 unless fuel consumption is of utmost importance.

Sorry but what could oil weight possibly have anything to do with the idle dip? There's been a TSB for that symptom for awhile btw.