Big Brake?
 

Front brake only ???? This is what is listed for performance accessories for 2013 FRS.

front brakes do most of the work

For a cheaper easy upgrade, just slap on some 06-07 WRX front calipers. They're 4pot and will most likely fit behind the stock wheels with no spacer, and you retain the oem rotor so you save money there.

That would just screw up the brake bias causing longer stopping distances and understeer during trailbraking. It would not be an upgrade in any sense other than piston count.

From strictly an styling point of view it really needs the back brake too. Check out the TRD GT - 86.

Yeah I read through the other brake thread where everyone is pointing that out. It would "work", but not really be an upgrade.

Yeah, but IMO, 6 piston fronts and 4 piston rears is a little overkill on these cars. Not to mention you'd had to use 18" wheels which these cars weren't really designed for.

This might also be an issue... these setups are not exactly the same(STI=WRX position), interchangeability is speculative.

http://www.subiegal.com/gallerymain/...-2006-sti1.jpg

http://image.motortrend.com/f/372296...BRZ-wheels.jpg

As pointed out in a few other threads, this is an issue with Brembos but not FHI/Nissan 4 pots. In any case, the FHI/Nissan units won't be an upgrade.

placement in relation to the direction of the car isnt a concern? Like I said above, wrx is the same place as sti

http://www.subiegal.com/gallerymain/...-sideskirt.jpg

FHI 4pots aren't differential bored. Brembos are.

You can flip FHI units left/right to get the right bleeder orientation and they'll work fine. Brembos won't.

Furthermore, Ken@KNS Brakes aka WRX Brakes now carries rear adapters that locate the rear FHI 2 pots to the 08+ WRX knuckle assembly. Theoretically, one could take the FHI 4/2pot setup and place it on the BRZ (if the rear suspension is lifted entirely out of the WRX, as was suggested in an earlier thread).

Again, the FHI 4/2 setup provides no heat capacity over stock; only increased modulation of the pedal and more rearward bias (at least, in the WRX it moves bias rearward).

I see what you are saying about fitment, but then to claim that they are not an upgrade is certainly speculative. I would be willing to bet that the 4/2 setup will out-brake and outperform a stock setup, any wagers?

I'll take that wager.

Most people move to larger brakes due to fade; they require more heat capacity for repeated sessions at the track. These are WRX sliders on a car that weighs 400-500lbs less, they won't be as prone to fade as they are on that pig. The sliders are woefully undersized for 3300-3400lbs of AWD grip, not so much a 2762lb runabout. The 4/2 units are iron, and as such, likely weigh more than the sliders while using the exact same rotors front and rear. The additional unsprung mass, from the calipers, at all four corners will offset the gains from playing with bias and modulation methinks. Regardless, I would consider it a waste of money. The proper first step is new pads, lines, and fluid. Then talk about bigger brakes...where keeping the same size rotors is by and far, not the point.

The bias on the early WRX was very nearly 70/30. FHI 4/2 were a tremendous upgrade in that they moved bias rearward and made the pedal stiff as tits instead of squishy like bread. The pedal here, in the BRZ, is already stiff; moving to the 4pot setup is a waste of time, IMHO.

You cant know how stiff the pedal will feel until you start really pushing it. You also cant deny that you will gain a great amount of feel from these, as the newer WRX guys still benefit from them on more recent models.

Tires,pads,lines,fluid,master cylinde/brace, + duct work would really seal the deal. I think they weigh less; and with the sliding pads they are easier to swap in/out, and have more aftermarket options. Its not all too pricey either, especially considering the nice benefits of a compromise between street and performance driving.

If you don't go FI the stock brakes will be enough, just fit some track spec pads, braided hoses and RBF600 or any other good boiling point oil.

Here's a useful read for the OP if he hasn't read it already.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5136

At the end of the day, it all depends on what you are using the car for.

If it's gonna see a ton of track days, it probably wouldn't hurt to go bigger to address issues of heat and fade.

If you are only going to autocross/track every once in a while, you could probably convince yourself it is useful even though a majority of people, myself included, will think it doesn't make a difference.

If you are never going to see an autocross/track, you are getting it for the BLING factor.

Depends. if it moves bias too far in either direction ABS will activate early and if you stay at the threshold you would have longer stopping distances than stock.

Brakes are simple to install/fit but not always so simple to get correct performance out of them.

With the fronts only, do they have any difference in pad area? Or piston area? More pistons doesn't mean more piston area by default. If it's the same as the stock slider you will improve feel/modulation only (and some slightly better pad wear), not performance.

And this thread, which IMO has more info in it: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5009

And about 12 other threads...

increase the size of the heatsink only if you have problems that can't be addressed with cooling, otherwise you won't see performance benefits (but yes, feel/modulation and pad wear benefits), but there will be negatives.

Pretty cool results from this test on Nasioc, some evidence toward me being on the more probable side of this argument. (4pots also weighed in a lb lighter.)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=pot

Heh, I remember when irish posted it some years ago. In any case, they're expensive new and a provide some benefit to the heavy pig car. It remains to be seen whether or not moving bias rearward does anything relatively helpful for this car.

Brake bias wouldn't be a concern if the person swapping the brakes over spent the $40 on an adjustable proportioning valve.

Which is worthless unless someone knows how to set it up :)

Of course, but that's like saying "don't buy coilovers because you don't know how to set them up." That's where a good performance shop can step in and set it up for you.

You must have good performance shops around there.

Here I think they'd maybe be able to set it up to a specific weight, but suggestions on rates/damper settings.. good luck.

And brake bias.. even more good luck.

About the only people who would know are the race shops, which there are plenty of, but they tend to be busy and therefore you won't get it done quickly.

An adjustable prop valve is a ton of work for a Subaru and IIRC requires replumbing the lines and possibly losing ABS. It's not something you're going to do on a street car.

- Andrew

Thinking about it, I've never used one on an ABS car before in general. My track/race cars have always have always had ABS completely removed anyways...

I guess you could use an adj valve with ABS but I could see some issues there.

Good input :thumbup:

And regardless, 99% of the people who put on a big brake kit NEVER touch any other part of the system anyways.

Good point. I never liked ABS anyway ;)

Why not do the TRD upgrade up front and keep the oem rear ones but do rotors pads and lines? I dont think this car will need huge brakes since its light , that should be more than enough.

Ha! You sound like my brother. Actually...I was tempted to make a little switch that disabled ABS on my old subaru since it was way too intrusive (especially in bad weather). But they've gotten a lot better.

- drew

Well the OEM brakes with good pads and good fluid will be awesome for most people. That's the point a lot of us are making.

The TRD front kit (and other properly engineered big brake kits, like stoptech) will improve fade resistance and improve the already very good pedal feel. Crappier kits with no attention to detail will improve fade resistance but likely increase stopping distances.

- andrew

I wanted to say this earlier, but now I can make this claim with the support of a well known Subaru shop.

Why not just drive it stock and only use larger rotors if it's actually needed?

Obviously the engineers didn't consider "bling" and "baller status" when they engineering this lithe sports coupe. Didn't ya know bling's the most important utility in a car, Dave?

Alternatively:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qnd-hdmgfk"]I'm sorry, Dave - YouTube[/ame]

Sadly I missed the damn memo. :)