Centric Premium Rotors - too thick?
 

So I got around to installing OEM replacement rotors (Centric Premium), and after installing them with the OEM pads w/ shims (OEM pads have about 2k miles on them), I found that I couldn't get the caliper around the pads and rotor, and actually had to remove the first shim on the backing plates for the caliper to even squeeze on.

There is no space at all for the pads to move, and are pressed against the rotor.

Has anyone else running Centric premium rotors had this issue?

My only solution at this point is try out a new set or have them turned.

Or let the pads wear down the little bit until.

My concern is when I put the race pads on which are a tad bit thicker than the lightly OEM pads; I don't think they'll even fit.

Bastard file?

Did you spread the pistons all the way back out?

lol, yes, definitely did.

Sorry, had to ask... I've seen simpler things overlooked.

Exact same reason for my lol, watched a guy scratch his head for an hour at the track trying to get his new pads on, not realizing he needs to compress the pistons!

I'm using Centric Premium rotors and have had no such issues. Initial installation was new rotors with new Hawk DC60 pads, using the OEM pad shims.

Hm, interesting. Do you know what the total overall thickness of the new Hawk pads were?

i have used them on the BRZ with both street and track pads. no issues

What is the minimum thickness of the rotors you have? Are they the right ones for the car?

It may very well be a case of mispackaged rotors.

-alex

These rotors measure 0.949", my OEM rotors measured about 0.943", so really not that big of a difference, but just enough that they're dragging a bit, and couldn't fit that top shim on the OEM pads on.

I drove around for about 20 miles yesterday, which was enough to take off enough pad material to get the second top shim on the OEM pads.

I ran them last track season, with Carbotech XP10 (fronts) and XP8 (rears). I never had an issue like this. Mine seems to fit just fine. I believe my centric blank part numbers were:

Front- 120.47021
Rear- 120.47031

Thanks, that's the front part # I'm running; maybe just an issue with the set I got?

Also, how long did the Centric's last you?

Not what you're measuring... I meant what the minimum thickness etched on the rotors say.

It may be a case of wrong blanks to begin with, and they were subsequently drilled for the car.

-alex

sorry.

22mm minimum thickness is etched on the outer edge.

I got 6(?) track days out of them. There is still a lot of life left in them, but my last track day (Spring Mountain) was very hard on the brakes. I noticed some very small cracks, so I didn't risk using them any more. I ended up purchasing the AP Racing kit. However, I thought for the money...the centric blanks were phenomenal. My brother is a little easier on braking, and his hardly show any wear after 6+ events.

I tend run them past the normal heat checking, until they get some serious cracks that I can catch a fingernail on or if the crack gets to the outer edge.

Here's my OEM rotor after 7 track days on them, and it is TOAST:

https://scontent-a-mia.xx.fbcdn.net/...50675249_n.jpg

Be glad. Good problem to have. Thicker rotor, more mass, more heat capacity at track, longer wear.

When you need to put new pads on the next time, the minor wear will have worn down the surface just enough...

Shawn



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How do you guys measure the thickness of the rotor from the edges or somewhere in the middle?

And how do you tell if it's time to replace them?

I have about 6-7 track days on them and cannot see any cracks but since I've received my ST43 brakes today I wonder if I should change the rotors as well

1) Micrometer (cheap one is fine); anywhere the pad sweeps - http://www.harborfreight.com/0-to-1-...meter-895.html

2) The minimum thickness is stamped on the edge of the rotors; best to note the value before you use the rotors as it can be hard to find/read after you've used them.

3) I'd measure them first to see how much rotor you have left. For the street, it's unlikely to matter how close to the minimum thickness it is. For the track, you can run them until cracks wide enough to catch a fingernail appear; if you're handy and have a spare set of rotors with you, you can change them out at the track if that becomes necessary. Since I don't have a twin, I can't tell you how long that will take, but it's usually a short job.

I have a digital clamp I just wanted to see if anyone knows the actual thickness of the Centric Premium rotors and the recommended range
it's too late :) never paid attention to that

Agree I carry extra pads and rotors with me as well as the small jack and jack stands and a spare tire just in case ;)