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-   -   Shifteck Short Shifter Review (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50984)

PineappleFriedRice 11-08-2013 10:21 PM
Shifteck Short Shifter Review
 
Been using it for over a month and definitely satisfied with my purchase. Almost paid $300-ish for a TWM shifter but spent $130 on this instead.

Throw is reduced(as advertised), height not so much. Feels very solid, not flimsy like the stock shifter and comparable quality to the TWM shifterI had on my Tiburon(but I will say the TWM is slightly better) . Very easy to install, gotta reuse 3 pieces from stock shifter, see pics below.

When I bought it, it was at $130 but now it is at $69.99.

http://www.shifteck.com/?p=200
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271230803183...84.m1423.l2649

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ps9924d53c.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...psf82d88b0.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ps8ce1b440.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ps9109db2b.jpg

Shifteck 11-09-2013 09:36 AM
Thanks for the review.

White64Goat 11-09-2013 10:22 AM
Went to their website which posted the shifter on June 28th but it is not available in their store??????????? Someone needs to update that.

PineappleFriedRice 11-09-2013 11:39 AM
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by White64Goat (Post 1321794)
Went to their website which posted the shifter on June 28th but it is not available in their store??????????? Someone needs to update that.
That threw me off too. I saw the ebay ad and went to the Shifteck site to see how much they were selling for compared to the ebay one and the only thing they had about it was that it was still in production but will be out soon. That made sense because when the ebay ad was still new, I remember it saying that there would be a 2 week wait time. I emailed Shifteck to ask if the vendor on ebay was legitimate and they reassured me that they were.

PineappleFriedRice 11-09-2013 11:41 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifteck (Post 1321762)
Thanks for the review.
Thanks for the solid shifter:D

PineappleFriedRice 11-09-2013 11:54 AM
1 Attachment(s)
Also, I forgot to mention that the bushing needs to be modified a little since it is too small. Don't go nuts with the drill though, you still want a snug fit.

Shifteck 11-09-2013 11:56 AM
Actually, pineapplefriedrice, you had one of the first few. That issue has been fixed. :)

Graham

SubaSteve 11-09-2013 12:27 PM
I just picked one up now due to that awesome price. Been having problems going from 4th to 5th lets see if it fixes that.

imom 11-09-2013 05:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifteck (Post 1321875)
Actually, pineapplefriedrice, you had one of the first few. That issue has been fixed. :)

Graham
I was on the fence if a short shifter would help, but the ebay price is worth the risk. Are these first generation BRZ/FRS shifter for the blow out prices?

I wonder if the ebay seller had any of the shifter with holes that are too small? If not great...what is the hole size supposed to be so I can measure the hole with a caliper. Thank you.

imom 11-09-2013 05:25 PM
pineapplefriedrice,
Could you press the white collar through the ball...was it necessary to cut the white collar? What about the rubber boot...how come you didn't use that?

Shifteck 11-09-2013 06:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by imom (Post 1322220)
I was on the fence if a short shifter would help, but the ebay price is worth the risk. Are these first generation BRZ/FRS shifter for the blow out prices?

I wonder if the ebay seller had any of the shifter with holes that are too small? If not great...what is the hole size supposed to be so I can measure the hole with a caliper. Thank you.
No, we have replaced all of the first gen ones with our vendors. The correct hole size is 10mm (just slightly larger than 3/8")

PineappleFriedRice 11-09-2013 06:18 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by imom (Post 1322239)
pineapplefriedrice,
Could you press the white collar through the ball...was it necessary to cut the white collar? What about the rubber boot...how come you didn't use that?
You cannot press the white collar through the ball. You would risk snapping the collar and be S.O.L.

Rubber boot is on, but I took the pic before I put it on:)

Hawaiian 11-10-2013 01:33 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifteck (Post 1321875)
Actually, pineapplefriedrice, you had one of the first few. That issue has been fixed. :)

Graham
I actually think I might have installed the first Shiftek shifter on a twin. I only say that because some of the QC was way off. It was back in August and I went back and forth with the vendor about the issues I was having while I was installing.

I understand that sometimes this happens in early production runs so I didn't make an issue with it. I've still been in contact with them and am still waiting for a revised, or fixed shifter.

Although cutting the Oem bushing to reuse it wasn't my first choice, I was fine with that.

I then discovered that the ID of the linkage bushing didn't fit, and that is what lead me to believe I was the first people to install these because it was clearly far too small. I didn't have a caliper around, so I passed drill bits through the oem until I found the closest match (3/8 was a little loose on the oem, but it was close enough). I overbored the bushing and finally got it on.

The real problem was with the rattle that came with it. After stripping it down a few times and checking everything out I found the source of the problem. The hex bolt that attaches the reverse lockout to the main shifter shaft.

You can see where it was rubbing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps4d5dde21.jpg

The lower edge where the o-ring sat became warped causing it to no longer fit without contacting the reverse lockout.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps31fbf9ba.jpg


Other than this, it's a nice inexpensive solution to getting a short shifter. I might have liked the reverse lockout having alternate color options, but that would obviously increase the price of the unit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by imom (Post 1322239)
pineapplefriedrice,
Could you press the white collar through the ball...was it necessary to cut the white collar? What about the rubber boot...how come you didn't use that?
You have to reuse the rubber boot, and you must cut the collar. I tried to take apart the oem shifter to keep from cutting the collar but no such luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifteck (Post 1322291)
No, we have replaced all of the first gen ones with our vendors. The correct hole size is 10mm (just slightly larger than 3/8")
I'm still waiting for my replacement. I haven't been pressing the issue because of some warranty issues I am having.

PineappleFriedRice 11-10-2013 02:08 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawaiian (Post 1322757)
I actually think I might have installed the first Shiftek shifter on a twin. I only say that because some of the QC was way off. It was back in August and I went back and forth with the vendor about the issues I was having while I was installing.

I understand that sometimes this happens in early production runs so I didn't make an issue with it. I've still been in contact with them and am still waiting for a revised, or fixed shifter.

Although cutting the Oem bushing to reuse it wasn't my first choice, I was fine with that.

I then discovered that the ID of the linkage bushing didn't fit, and that is what lead me to believe I was the first people to install these because it was clearly far too small. I didn't have a caliper around, so I passed drill bits through the oem until I found the closest match (3/8 was a little loose on the oem, but it was close enough). I overbored the bushing and finally got it on.

The real problem was with the rattle that came with it. After stripping it down a few times and checking everything out I found the source of the problem. The hex bolt that attaches the reverse lockout to the main shifter shaft.

You can see where it was rubbing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps4d5dde21.jpg

The lower edge where the o-ring sat became warped causing it to no longer fit without contacting the reverse lockout.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps31fbf9ba.jpg


Other than this, it's a nice inexpensive solution to getting a short shifter. I might have liked the reverse lockout having alternate color options, but that would obviously increase the price of the unit.



You have to reuse the rubber boot, and you must cut the collar. I tried to take apart the oem shifter to keep from cutting the collar but no such luck.



I'm still waiting for my replacement. I haven't been pressing the issue because of some warranty issues I am having.
Damn that looks all messed up. Maybe you just got a bad one. I don't have any rattle and mine doesn't look like that but I will take a look at it in the morning. Bought mine June 30.

Hawaiian 11-10-2013 02:19 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by PineappleFriedRice (Post 1322768)
Damn that looks all messed up. Maybe you just got a bad one. I don't have any rattle and mine doesn't look like that but I will take a look at it in the morning. Bought mine June 30.
If yours isn't rattling it's fine. It took me a while to find it. The rattle only came back when i would put the final rubber dust boot back. After several test runs I finally broke it all down and found the warped bolt.

PineappleFriedRice 11-10-2013 03:31 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawaiian (Post 1322777)
If yours isn't rattling it's fine. It took me a while to find it. The rattle only came back when i would put the final rubber dust boot back. After several test runs I finally broke it all down and found the warped bolt.
I'm planning on spray painting the exposed part of the shifter. Whenever I get around to it and disassemble the shifter, at least I know to inspect that part of it.

imom 11-22-2013 02:11 AM
Just wanted to confirm...I took a caliper and measured 9.9mm I couldn't get a better fit to measure 10mm since the rubber washer was glued lightly to the hole opening. I can under why it's a tougher fit...the washer made it look like 9.5mm.

empower-auto 11-22-2013 03:12 PM
Do you have to cut that bushing on all aftermarket shifts? Seems janky as hell

zack681720 12-08-2013 07:27 PM
I might buy this thank you for the post. It's helping me to decide.

SubaSteve 12-08-2013 11:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by empower-auto (Post 1347429)
Do you have to cut that bushing on all aftermarket shifts? Seems janky as hell
Meh if you install the shifter yourself you'll understand why it doesn't even matter. I will say this though I would never pay over the 70 bucks I paid for this vs going with another manufacturer that doesn't reuse pieces.

Also if you buy from the vendor above make sure to sand the hole with a dremel a bit so it isn't too stiff.

BilletProShop 01-22-2014 09:42 AM
looks great...original, is all i can say
http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/...p/109_0001.jpg

mad_sb 01-22-2014 11:27 AM
I'm about to throw mine in the trash can. The rattle is so bad over 4,000 rpm it makes me not even want to drive the car. I have checked and modified every possible source of the rattle (the o-ringed retaining bolt, lower cotter pin, spring and retaining mechanism, different shift knobs.. it's worse with my mtec drift than with the stock knob) over and over.

I finally gave up and ordered a kartboy.
@Shifteck if you have any suggestions on how to fix the rattle (this is a newer unit, just got it a month ago) please enlighten me.

Hawaiian 01-22-2014 11:39 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_sb (Post 1470754)
I'm about to throw mine in the trash can. The rattle is so bad over 4,000 rpm it makes me not even want to drive the car. I have checked and modified every possible source of the rattle (the o-ringed retaining bolt, lower cotter pin, spring and retaining mechanism, different shift knobs.. it's worse with my mtec drift than with the stock knob) over and over.

I finally gave up and ordered a kartboy.
@Shifteck if you have any suggestions on how to fix the rattle (this is a newer unit, just got it a month ago) please enlighten me.
Did you check the inside of the linkage? I think the base can contact the arm and possibly rub.

mad_sb 01-22-2014 01:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawaiian (Post 1470777)
Did you check the inside of the linkage? I think the base can contact the arm and possibly rub.
I'll take a look as I install the kartboy in a few days. I even went so far as to put a Teflon washer between the shoulder of the bolt and the first o-ring because i thought it was the flat bottom of the trough that was vibrating against the under side of the bolt head. Everything i have done has helped a little bit but all in all i think it is just a poor design that is prone to rattle.

Also, I am running perrin shift bushing, megan motor mounts, and whitline transmount insert so I'm sure I have more Vibration that those running stock mounts etc.

Hawaiian 01-22-2014 01:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_sb (Post 1471100)
I'll take a look as I install the kartboy in a few days. I even went so far as to put a Teflon washer between the shoulder of the bolt and the first o-ring because i thought it was the flat bottom of the trough that was vibrating against the under side of the bolt head. Everything i have done has helped a little bit but all in all i think it is just a poor design that is prone to rattle.

Also, I am running perrin shift bushing, megan motor mounts, and whitline transmount insert so I'm sure I have more Vibration that those running stock mounts etc.
It could just be the sleeve on the shaft then.

mad_sb 01-22-2014 01:38 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawaiian (Post 1471106)
It could just be the sleeve on the shaft then.
Yeah, that is where it seems to come from. Short of replacing the sleeve bushings inside the aluminum lockout body with a tighter fitting pair i don't see anyway to resolve the rattle...

Checking the linkage on the pass side is also a good idea.. that is the one area i have not checked yet.

Hawaiian 01-22-2014 02:03 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_sb (Post 1471150)
Yeah, that is where it seems to come from. Short of replacing the sleeve bushings inside the aluminum lockout body with a tighter fitting pair i don't see anyway to resolve the rattle...

Checking the linkage on the pass side is also a good idea.. that is the one area i have not checked yet.
Rather than a bushing replacement you could try to grease the shaft to see if that will provide enough of a cushion to dampen the rattle. Needless to say, it looks like you've solved the issue.

Wyattkb 02-02-2014 10:17 PM
Just picked up this shifter as well. Has really bad rattling issues at 4k+ RPM. I emailed dynasty the company who sold it to me for a solution.

Sent from my XT912 using Tapatalk

Carlitoz3 02-03-2014 07:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_sb (Post 1471150)
Yeah, that is where it seems to come from. Short of replacing the sleeve bushings inside the aluminum lockout body with a tighter fitting pair i don't see anyway to resolve the rattle...

Checking the linkage on the pass side is also a good idea.. that is the one area i have not checked yet.
How u liking the kartboy short shifter?
Been thinking of going that route.

YouShallKnow 02-12-2015 04:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyattkb (Post 1499476)
Just picked up this shifter as well. Has really bad rattling issues at 4k+ RPM. I emailed dynasty the company who sold it to me for a solution.

Sent from my XT912 using Tapatalk
Was there any resolution? I'm considering buying a used one of these.

ramiram1984 02-12-2015 06:31 PM
Just buy a kartboy ss

Wyattkb 02-12-2015 06:49 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by YouShallKnow (Post 2130094)
Was there any resolution? I'm considering buying a used one of these.
They ended up refunding me. Bought a kartboy and it rattles still, but substantially less.

I'm thinking the rattling is also being amplified from my whiteline transmission bushings.

YouShallKnow 02-12-2015 06:59 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramiram1984 (Post 2130253)
Just buy a kartboy ss
But I like money!

JohnJuan 02-12-2015 09:22 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by YouShallKnow (Post 2130296)
But I like money!
Buy the TRD. No reports of rattles yet. I hear it can be found for less than $175.

YouShallKnow 02-13-2015 02:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnJuan (Post 2130485)
Buy the TRD. No reports of rattles yet. I hear it can be found for less than $175.
Sounds good. Where can I get that price?

JohnJuan 02-13-2015 05:18 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by YouShallKnow (Post 2131431)
Sounds good. Where can I get that price?
Check through this forum page. Somebody got it for $135.

YouShallKnow 02-14-2015 12:30 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnJuan (Post 2131600)
Check through this forum page. Somebody got it for $135.
No longer works :(

JohnJuan 02-14-2015 03:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by YouShallKnow (Post 2132008)
No longer works :(
That's disappointing. Keep an eye out!


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