Chase Bays ground kit, anyone install it?
 

So I've had this for awhile, looking at install. The twin power side isn't clear as would appear that the fuse box seems to be taken apart to pass through to alternator. This should be easy as pie right? It's not clear at all in fact and no instructions or downloadble |PDF as well. I have contacted vendor and well I don't expect them (ft86speedfactory) to figure it out for me or do an install vid and have not had any success with clear instructions back from Chase Bays on this kit. Therefore if "anyone" has instaleld this and can provide some clarity on the passing through part of the + side to alternator or how that is 100% supposed to be done I would be very gratefull!!!

+1

Just ordered this kit and I'm confused about the same thing. Wondering why exactly it's better to have the alternator wire running back along the same wire that runs to the starter, versus going back through it's route through the fuse box.

We will make a PDF to clear this up!

Are you guys against replacing the alternator lead? With our kit it's doing the same thing as it is on the fusebox (giving direct battery 12v) but in a more simple and better looking fashion. This is something we've done in all previous charge harnesses so we kept it going here. The lead simply unbolts from the fusebox and is removed from the loom.

There is the option of running our alternator lead under the intake manifold and to the alternator but retaining the factory fusebox to alternator lead as well. There isn't performance loss or gain here, just easier installation if you don't feel like untaping the alternator power wire until later.

Is your lead from the alternator to the fuse box fused?

Done.

Chase Bays Install Guide for CB-GT86-CHG/GND

Woah +1

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+1 for humor and electrical jokes thruout.

Could you guys provide a manual for my girlfriend? I still can't figure that shit out

Sometimes we wonder if people will get it. Thanks for getting it haha. Work should be fun right!?

Yeah man! Send us specs and we'll get it done. :respekt:

This kit is designed to do what exactly??

The reason I got it is because I am sick of my idle dipping every time I roll up the power windows. Seems like the electrical system needed some bolstering so I will see if this addresses it.

Same boat. I get momentary dip for lights/windows/etc. After seeing the response time on that writeup I'll definintely be ordering this. Thanks for the humor and the fast responses guys! :respekt:

Let us know how it works, I'm getting annoyed at the idle drops every time I operate a control for anything too. I used to have a buddy club condenser/grounding kit, wonder if the condenser is unnecessary.

I appreciate the reminder on that, I forgot that's why we even had the idea to make these. I will add that to the product description. I can get a short video of our FR-S's idle staying the same during all controls.

So, no then, I guess.

Oh sorry I missed this, no it isn't. Most cars on the road do not have a fuse on the alternator lead, direct to battery. We've been doing this for years as well.

If it is a concern for you, we could do a circuit breaker add on for your charging/grounding harness.

Looking at the 5th and 7th pages of your .pdf write up shows that you bypass the factory fusible link, which is detailed on page 36 of the Factory Service Manual here. http://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf

Those fuses are there to prevent damage in the event of an accident. One is between the battery and the alternator, the other is between the battery and the fuse box.

All cars have some form of fusible link in the charging circuit from the factory. If you just move the ring terminal at the battery to one of the two posts that put a fuse between the battery and the rest of the car, all will be fine. Otherwise I think you should be informing your customers of the potential fire hazard. While the risk is low, it should be up to the customer to decide what level of risk they are willing to accept.

I appreciate the input. I love this forum.

All cars do not have this, trust me. Most are unfused to starter and alternator. It is only bypassed for the alternator. The "fire risk" is the same, the battery to starter is unfused from the factory. The only accident that could happen is if you connect the charging cables to ground, which in that case it's user error and would have happened either way since the battery to starter is unfused. And if you meant accident as in a wreck. Say a front end collision was hard enough to strangely rip a cable back there and even more strangely touch that cable to ground...well...shit. Even if that did happen, I've seen battery cables touch ground for extended periods of time. The battery goes before a fire starts. To make it MORE obscure, it's like having spark and no fuel.

You're right about moving the terminal though, that's a really good idea. We would have to modify the install guide and also confirm that the fuse in the terminal can handle cranking amps. The install guide was made on our car before it was painted and changed up. Battery is in the back now, nothings factory, etc. We'll have find a local FR-S/BRZ.

I stand by what I said, there won't be a problem unless there is user error involved. And as I stated above, the risk of user error stays the same. We've done it like this time after time. But I definitely want everyone to feel comfortable and I believe in "better safe than sorry" for the most part. Also it's an easy fix. Okay I talk to much.

I am still confused on where the starter to alternator wire goes? The directions are unclear and there is no photo for it. Has anyone installed this? Need some help. Contacted Chase Bays but it is the weekend so i doubt they will get back to me till monday.

Car is dead in the yard til i figure out where this wire goes.

To the alternator? Or to the fuse box? to fuse box and take out old alternator wire?

PM me please if you have installed this kit.

DONT buy any of these grounding kits from Chase Bays and Cusco. They are extremely over priced and cost literally nothing to make compared to what they charge. You can make this your self with higher gauge wire that is better quality than what they offer if you know what to do. Follow guides on google from other car forums or go to your local car audio shop and let them know you want to do a modification called "The Big 3"

Google "The Big 3 Wire Mod" and you will see step by step instructions on how to do it your self. If you dont wanna do it your self you can order kits from Crutchfield or Amazon for WAY cheaper.

Rated at 350 Amps
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_122BIG3...l#overview-tab

Rated at 250 Amps
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_122BIG3...l#overview-tab

Amazon kits that are MUCH cheaper. Go look at similar items for sale also for other kits.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Gino-Universal-Ground-Grounding-Cable/dp/B007POEWTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398504804&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+kit"]Amazon.com : Auto Car Universal HKS Ground Grounding Wire Cable Kit Blue 5 in 1 : Vehicle Amplifier Power And Ground Cables : Car Electronics[/ame]

Dont get ripped off by @chase_bays I dont care what they say. These modifications are EXTREMELY cheap and shouldnt have to spend more what they are asking for. Car audiophiles will know what I am talking about. If your car lights dim, this is what you do to try and fix that. If it still dim's then you get a capacitor or upgrade your alternator. But this is one of the few mods people do to try to make sure their subwoofers arent dimming headlights and getting enough juice from the alternator/battery.

Better yet, could you please explain exactly what these kits do and why there is a need for them. Complete snake oil IMO.

If you route the wires nicely it helps dress up the engine bay for car shows.

If you're a sound quality guy, it minimizes ground loops and prevents unwanted humming in your system.

While those are useless to me, I can see the desire for a kit in those situations. At least you didn't say something along the lines of "Gain free HP!!" that you often see coupled with these kits. Thanks for the useful reply!

It also prevents the idle dip that is so common with the chassis. So it looks better and has a direct function increase to it. As you add mods, it becomes more and more important to cover your grounding system. @GotBRZ1691 can chime in with his improvements.

Is this kit still available? Cant find it on your web site

Forgot to check this,

Flame Retardant Sleeving
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/chas...rness-779.html

Raychem DR-25
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/chas...rness-892.html

It's nice you make this kit. I've always made my own. I made mine 0 gauge. I do this to every car I own.

Can you guys re-host the install PDF?

I am curious about the mod, and want to see the level of involvement.

I really appreciate your level of contact within this thread!

Thanks!

will this stop my car from shocking me every fucking time I touch the door

No.


You'd need something like this: http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/9de7/

They do absolutely nothing to the 86 platform other than add bling to your engine bay.

Toss it in with the stance and system crowd

Obviously, hence my comment...
I was pointing out a trend for retailers to offer products that have no real purpose in the off chance to generate sales off misconception. Apparently I didn't do it in a very effective manner.

I bought the grounding kit from ft86speedfactory.com and there were no instructions or manual explaning how to install this kit. Even the PDF has been deleted from Chase Bays website. Please provide pics or video for installation step by step for a BRZ/FRS.

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Chase Bays ground kit, anyone install it?
 

What a waste of money. Like what one poster said you can easily do this your self not hard. And much better alternatives on the site he mentioned.

I remember seeing mods for the twins in a import tuner magazine and they claimed the grounding kit increased whp lol... A couple whp which Is probably common to see on stock cars have + or - a few whp every run.

People who buy this kit don't do enough research. Many cheaper alternatives

@GotBRZ1691