Borla UEL flex sections "loose"?
 

I searched but didn't find anything useful. I just got a Borla UEL today and the flex sections don't feel right. I haven't found any cracks yet but looking at them they appear to be solid, yet there is a fair amount of movement in one of the flex sections. Basically I can wiggle the header at the flex section with very little effort. It feels as though the flex section is made of press-fit pieces rather than solid.

Is this normal? TIA


http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/2...fuzsawtxpf.mp4




.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39591

May be you have a bad flex section.

Chris from Borla told me it was the cause of my rattle problem.

i've never had any luck with flex sections on exhaust. they usually end up leaking or cracking, at least the mesh looking ones do. i've never had one like borla uses.

I spoke to Heath @ Borla and he seemed to think the flex section was bad too. It perplexes the hell out of me because it moves so freely it feels like it's broken yet I can't find a crack anywhere. It doesn't move much but requires no effort to wiggle it. It just doesn't feel right for what looks like a solid, albeit corrugated piece of 304. I'll probably hear back from Borla tomorrow after they receive my email.

Thanks.



Me neither which is why I had to ask about this. They look solid but feel broken. Even if it's not broken, I bet it would rattle if I installed it. The last batch is sold out and they have 70 more units coming soon. Hopefully the latest batch are better quality. Although the collector on this one looks better than any that I've seen pictured here. Thanks.

The stock manifold uses two of the same type of flex joints, so it's not necessarily the design that's a problem.

My car rattles so bad from idle to 3k rpm from the flex section I can't stand driving it right now. I posted a video i made on the above thead. Borla is supposed to have the new batch finished tomorrow and Ill have a replacement on the way. Also covering install and gaskets

its a 2 piece part on the inside to allow for movement. Could be something on the inside you can't see.

That's very depressing to contemplate. At least Borla CS is as good as it gets. It looks like they're going to offer me a replacement header but I don't want one if this header is okay.


Thanks! I did not know that. Is it common for these flex sections to "wiggle" freely? It doesn't move much but requires little effort to move.

I installed my Borla UEL on last week. That section was stiff and solid on mine.. In fact, I did not notice any movement. I guess I am one of the lucky ones, because the construction, welds and all was solid and good.

Never had any flexing issue when I got it, seemed solid. However it had a significant rattle once installed between 2000-3000 RPM which I have told Borla, they are sending me a new header next week so hopefully it resolves the issue.

Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. If this is loose now, it's almost certain to rattle if I install it. I guess I'll wait for a new one.

Thank you. I still have hope that Borla will eventually get this header right. No way can they make money when they end up replacing most of them under warranty.

FWIW the third replacement header I got from Borla before giving up on them had the exact same issue as @Fast_Freddy 's.

The flex joints allowed A LOT of movement. I didn't feel comfortable installing it because of that and a few other issues like a warped flange and a crappy collector. I got my refund and moved on to a JDL UEL header.

I heard back from Borla today:


Good Morning Fred,

I spoke to my head of R&D and showed him all of this that you sent. He assures me that this new style flex flange is supposed to move just like it is. It does have more play than the older mesh style. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me.

Thanks,

Heath Nelson




Good enough for me. The head flanges were machined perfectly flat, the collector looks good and the only small issue is that the overpipe flange is warped. It should flatten out when properly torqued to the overpipe so not a big deal. Hopefully I can get it installed tomorrow.

BTW, just because. Not the worst collector ever made.

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/7584/l6dg.jpg


Head flanges clearly machined flat by Borla after welding.

http://imageshack.us/a/img607/831/5b87.jpg

Got my new header from borla in yesterday, going to install tomorrow and hopefully the rattle will go away.

I got mine installed today. Harder than I expected, mostly due to cramped working conditions under the car and those studs on the header/over-pipe connection. I used ramps but this will be the last time for that, other than simple oil changes. My secondary O2 sensor is hopelessly cross-threaded in the oem header so I had to plug the secondary bung in the header for now.

Anyway, perfect fitment, sounds great, no rattles, no rasp, no leaks. I'm happy.

Good luck.


I guess this is a good place to ask a question about my missing secondary O2 sensor. Do I even need one if I get a tune?


.

My header collector looked very similar, but MAN did it get a flaming when I posted a picture of it on here.

I am perfectly OK with that collector at the price paid + lifetime warranty

i've never owned a flex joint that didn't fail and leak eventually.

my replacement header has zero leaks and rattles as well. installed it yesterday

This forum has a lot of elitist snobs and noob followers who either don't know better or will only support small specialist shops or "JDM" parts. The Borla headers are obviously not the best available but so far it looks like good value to me.

These accordion style joints too? I know the ss braided flex sections always fail but I have no experience with this style.




I guess this is a good place to ask a question about my missing secondary O2 sensor. Do I even need one if I get a tune?


.

i've only owned the mesh style, but i believe the same principle applies. if you allow metal to flex over and over and over, it will eventually fail. of course the alternative is to not allow it to flex, which could cause it to crack.

not sure which is better, i just know in my own experience i've always had more trouble with the flex sections that with exhausts that didn't have them.

If you get an ECUTEK tune you will need a secondary O2 sensor plugged in and installed in the header. I did testing with unplugging the O2 sensor (got an O2 heater DTC) and with keeping it plugged in but out of the exhaust stream (got no sensor activity DTC).

You need it installed and in the exhaust stream, the only thing turned off as far as DTC codes when you get an ECUTEK tune is the catalyst efficiency code. The ECU is still looking for a working heater circuit and sensor activity.

I'm going to check my OEM manifold, but I think they use the same type of flex section the Borla uses.....

I agree that the braided/mesh style will lead to leaks in the future. I know people who have had them replaced on aftermarket exhausts around the 60K mile mark

I got my third replacement header today.

The quality is always better and better.

The welding look better, the flange are perfectly flat, there is no more grinding onto the flange and the collector look great.

Cant wait to install it to get rid of that annoying rattle vibration.

I'm going to install the FA20club overpipe at the same time.

I will now be running a fully complete exhaust system.:burnrubber:

My favorite flex sections are the oem spring bolt type. I'd be surprised if the oem flex sections don't last 10 years. I'll be satisfied if Borla's last 1/2 that long. My header only cost $435 shipped. :)


Thanks but after asking that question I PM'd Tony from FA20Club and he replied that he could also disable the other DTCs associated with an absent #2 O2 sensor. He said that he has customers running Bosch wide-band sensors in that bung.

This is good to know, I had a wideband sensor in that bung that I eventually removed because of the other DTC codes. I am going to suggest my tuner remove them as well, then I can run the wideband again :clap:

installed my replacement today and zero leaks/rattles!

[QUOTE=My header only cost $435 shipped. :)

Did you get the borla header? If so from who?

Yes, Borla UEL from Amazon. Normally Amazon charges about $535 with free shipping but I bought one listed as used. It wasn't actually used but was a customer return.