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Header did the most to increase the sound, but I put mine on after I did the cat-back. I highly recommend the stock cat-back if you want quieter; I bought the quietest exhaust I could and it's loud as heck to me.
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http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36467
Some of this info from my old thread might help. |
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You could change the headers and overpipe and keep the stock front pipe with the secondary cat and the rest of the OEM system.
In terms of power increase I have no sure values but my guess is around +7-10 hp of peak power at the crank, probably more than 10 at 6000 rpm. You'll need to sort out the O2 sensor issue with a microcat/emulator/cheater, with a ECU tune or extending the wire and plugging the sensor after the secondary cat instead of between primary and secondary (you must weld a bung!) An even better idea is to replace the front pipe with the secondary cat with a sport cat, along with the headers. You'll get the same increase of a full system, low emissions if you go for a good cat and a nice sound increase. Don't go for a fully decat setup with the stock centre and rear exhaust as it'll be VERY metallic. We've tested this solution and while the car runs fine (no time for dyno testing) the sound is not very good. We're thinking to make a resonated front pipe for this purpose (full decat front section with stock or aftermarket catback) |
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This is what I had last week, JDL UEL Header, Perrin over pipe, Perrin front pipe with hfc, and stock cat-back. It was very quiet, maybe a little louder than stock. Now I have the same setup but with a Moto-East aluminum axle back(5lbs) It sounds awesome, and saved 21lbs. Simmons |
Hi Simmons. Did you dyno the car before and after those mods (without the tune or with the same tune both times)?
I'm skeptical about the advantage of a unequal lenght header kit, aside from the advantage of the removal of the primary cat. |
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Simmons |
Charts?
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You really should get some sound clips up, that is exactly the set up I am wanting to do also, I have decided to do the muffer last if at all. The header and hi flow cat front pipe will be first. I want the real nice sound and the hp gain in the torque dip from the uel header, but I think with cat back it might be too loud for what I'm looking for. I don't want people to hear me coming from a mile away as I drive spirited on their lake road. I'm really wanting to try and get the rev works header but the price of borla is hard to pass up, as long as they hold up on their end for warranty issues.
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Awesome keep us posted.
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i did revworks header and front pipe on stock exhaust,big differance in mid range, sound was terrible sounded like a go kart when i got on it but it was quiet when driving normal.over pipe isnt worth it and a catback helps only up top. like the very top were it almost doesnt matter lol
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In the base pull with header+ "without the tune", was the torque dip there. Was wondering how much a good tune can be in getting rid of the torque dip with just a Perrin catback
FastFreddy-thanks for your postings |
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BTW, this is the only sound clip I have so far. I'll try to get something better posted soon. [ame]http://youtu.be/s6qvgK6HMtc[/ame] |
Another update.
While the overall sound with just the header and HFC front pipe was pretty good there was a very annoying, occasional, metallic resonance/harmonic at low speeds/rpm. Going by the general Borla hate blindly parroted on this forum myself and my mechanic expected the cause to be the Borla flex sections or "cheap" HFC Tsudo front pipe. Surprisingly, replacing the OEM over-pipe with a Perrin pipe eliminated this noise entirely. So if you're hearing an annoying metallic resonance from your exhaust, check the over-pipe first. Removing the heat shields may be enough but I didn't try that. Props to Brady and Pure Automotive for the hookup on the Perrin over-pipe and Perrin silicone intake tube. As always, great work at very fair prices. |
I can confirm that replacing the headers and the front pipe with pipe-only component often result in metallic vibration.
This can be cause both by heatshield rattle but it's often caused by the harmonic vibration of the pipes themselves. Basically any long section of pipe with this engine cause the metallic rasp on liftoff and at certain rpm. |
Get a tune first... free baseline dyno and when you get all your other bolt ons done itll make them perform much better and smoother.
If you get headers you will need to get a tune in the future regardless. The gains from a tune are the best option/route to go if you plan to get all basic bolt ons and to heavily mod it more. If memory serves me right tunes also increase your MPG to which will save you gas and eventually pay it off after a long time but still good nonetheless. So the earlier you get a tune the more you save. Along with slightly better sounds from the engine, good gains, and extra goodies like revving to higher RPM's and things like launch control. |
I wouldn't bet on a engine sound change with a ECU tune.
I agree on the fact that if you start modifying the GT86 it's better to get a Ecutek cable and contact a company willing to give you map upgrades as you go on with mods. I would fit headers and HFC on the front pipe + specific map as first engine mod, maybe adding a good intake. After that, there's only super or turbo charging... |
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Thank you. I'm 99.9% sure that in my case the annoying resonance was the heat shields on the OEM over-pipe since replacing it eliminated the sound entirely. One reason I posted about this is because I've seen many Borla header owners with stock over-pipes blaming similar noises on the header flex sections. I suggest that the stock over-pipe may well be the actual cause in some or all of these cases, as it was in mine. Quote:
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