Shaving weight
 

On alot of sights i see carbon fiber trunks and hoods claiming 70% weight reduction. However I don't know the stock weight of those parts, does anyone know how much weight I will lose by doing a hood and trunk.
Also I really don't want carbon fiber showing on my exterior. Does anyone know any alternatives? Such as a company that sell fiber glass parts?
Has a rear seat delete kit come out for the car that isn't made of carbon fiber? I want to get rid of that weight, but I am not going to spend 1750 to do it.

Search tool should reveal where all the stock part weights are listed. I highly doubt even a dry carbon hood would weigh 70% less than aluminum. Trunklid maybe.

You can paint carbon fiber body color. Usually best to order the parts without a clear coat so they can be painted.

Rear seat delete kit you can make yourself out of Coroplast (corrugated plastic) for next to nothing. Big sheets of it can be bought in just about any color.

You might save 2 lbs on the hood and 2lbs on the rear seats and spend $2k.

I'll only charge you $100 to remove the spare tire. Much better bang for your buck.

Give me $500, then lose weight.

Here is the thread you are looking for

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7881

Carbon Fiber hood/trunk for this car is basically throwing your money in the garbage. The stock hood and trunk are already extremely light and for 2-3k you might drop 5 lbs between the two. Best place to start with the weight saving is the trunk junk(30ish lbs) and that is free. Then in the front, where it would be more beneficial to drop weight, a lightweight battery is a great way to start. A good reliable one can be expensive, but your looking at 20 lbs right there. Then get in your drivers seat and hold the windshield washer fluid button down until its all gone, theres another free 8 lbs. So yea moral of the story, CF is a waste of cash.

Just in case you forget about this: take out the owner's manual from the grove box, a few pounds. Front and rear rug set: another pound. Fill up has tank only half full: some weight there.

For the price of CF hood trunk, I will go for light weight rims.

.....Eat fewer cheeseburgers.

The first mods to my car I have decided are going to be the following-
1-Lose a shit load of weight (which will save me money for future mods :)
2-KnN filter and light weight crank pully
3-silicone hose
4-Light weight battery
5- take out the stuff in the trunk
6- lighten the fluid load
7- find a rear seat delete kit (I am to lazy/busy to make my own)
From there I am going to figure out what I can do on the exhaust side while keeping the car quite and get a tune to match it up.

5- You'll never have a flat as long as you have your spare. As soon as you take the spare out, you'll end up with a flat.

Worry first about losing un-sprung weight. That is where you'll notice the greatest benefit. The stock wheels weigh a lot; you can see a real benefit in switching to lightweight wheels and tires. Then for the same money as you spend on a hood and trunk, you could get an AP Racing or Wilwood brake kit which would not only shave weight but improve braking performance. Coil-overs usually weigh the same or more than stock strut/spring combos, but offer you more adjustability. I'm not sure if anyone makes these, but a hollow sway bar is going to weigh less than a solid bar.

A lightweight battery is inexpensive and saves significant weight. The stock airbox can be replaced with something aftermarket and save a couple pounds. you can pull the "subaru - toyota" cap off the intake plenum and shave a couple ounces there, too. Lightweight pulleys reduce drag and save weight. A lightweight flywheel and carbon fiber driveshaft saves weight and improves response. A full aftermarket exhaust system saves weight and adds power.

When you've exhausted every other option, then it's time to think about replacing panels with carbon fiber. That is where you gain the least weight reduction for your money.

There's an old saying: worry about the ounces, and the pounds will come.

A battery relocation kit will transfer more weight to your trunk area, and lighten the front. It makes a huge difference in handling and acceleration. That may be your best bet at this point

Thank you for the information and ideas.
I popped my hood for the first time the other day and that thing is crazy light. I completely realize now why no replacement hood is going to save much weight, especially for the money.

Quite correct..

Unsprung weight > dead weight.

Reduce it as much as you can. If your serious about weight loss, 16x7's or 16x8's would be the go(provided you don't want BBK). Forged monoblock rims ftw.

Elaborating further..
For anyone doubting the potential of weight reduction, try this(4 small minor mods that will only take 30mins tops)
1) Remove spare wheel and any other stuff in the boot compartment.
2) Hold down the washer fluid button till the reservoir is empty.
3) Remove your passenger seat(only as a trial, not permanent)
4) 1/3 Fuel in the gas tank.

Easy 50-55kg(100-110lbs) lost just by those 3 quick modifications. See if you notice the difference then..

If you do a rear seat delete is it possible to mount the battery in the middle of rear seat to maintain the trunk space?

Another random question, are there any rear seat deletes that let you fold down so you can still fit track wheels and tools?

You'd have to get a completely sealed battery - most have vents, hence them being in the engine bay. Some are mounted in the boot (ala R33/34 Skylines) but that's beacuse the rear seat doesn't fold down, etc.

The one you make.

-Taking everything out of the trunk shaved off 82lbs for me.
-Going from a stock exhaust to a single exit muffler delet track pipe saved me another 23lbs.
-Going to 17x9 rpf1s saves about 4lbs on each corner which is 16lbs total of unsprung weight.

Switch to some lightweight bucket seats that weigh like 10lbs each and a lightweight battery kit and that'll save you another 50lbs or so easy. I'll be doing this eventually as well. Also keep in mind that aftermarket engine/suspension components (headers, control arms etc) can also shed some weight while increasing overall performance,

So I'm about 120lbs lighter than stock and it cost me a lot less than going CF crazy and buying pointless shit.

I was reading over this thread this morning and saw what you said and was like 'fucking hell yes i'm thanking the shit out of this post' only to see that I already did 5 months ago haha.

Haha

First off, most trunk deletes have you remove that rear seat section of the center console. I'm not sure if it's removable without removing the center console in the front at the same time. The rear cushions are removable by themselves, and you don't need to buy any kids of delete kits. Once you remove the rear cushions, yes you can mount the battery in the rear seat area. If you were looking to mount it back there and still keep a sealed trunk, thus keeping the rear seat back, I'd recommend mounting the battery on the floor behind one of the two front seats. That way you can still fold down the rear seat back. If you are planning on removing the rear seat back, and still want the ability to load those 4 extra wheels for the track, then I'd recommend removing the rear seat belts as well for weight. But regardless of where in the cabin you want to mount the battery, you'll need a battery case with relocation kit. You do your research, you can make your own relocation kit. Shouldn't be too terribly difficult.

I realize this is a lot of info, just weigh all the pro's n con's before making any final decisions. Feel free to hit me up with any other questions, good luck, and may the force be with you.

One more thing, no there are no rear seat delete kits that fold down. They're all bolted in. Thus you can not do that cool bring your extra wheels to the track thing.

Forced induction

^ what's up with you FI guys hijacking every thread whether it's about tuning an NA or taking out weight of a car. Your ideas a redundant, uninspiring and un-original. Not to mention incredibly annoying.

No way the spare and tools weight that much, do they?

I took everything out. Tools, spare tire, and all of the interior trim pieces.

Everything came out to a bit over 80lbs.

Wow, did not think it was that much. I pulled the tire, tools and left all the carpet and trim in. I actually need to get some foam to fill the area cause you can't put anything of any weight in there now, it collapses the cover lol.

Yeah by taking everything out, I can put 4 wheels, jack and stands, helmets, and a shit ton of tools in my car now with ease.

From an engineering perspective; No.

Turbos are used for much much higher volumetric effiency that yields a higher output force. NA engines can only get so much power down using 14.7 psi before displacement needs to be bumped up.

The Shrader kit linked above will allow you to fold down the rear partition... I have kit in my BRZ and recommend it... It won't save you the max you could but it will remove a total net of 20lbs.

Ed

That's from your wallet:)

Wow, epic resurrection, with absolutely nothing added.

11/10

Why would you necro this thread to post this?

LOL I once had an 83 Alfa Romeo Quadrifoglio Hatch where the battery was in the back. Took a turn too hard once and the battery came loose of it's bracket and leaked all over the boot.

80's Italian engineering and safety didn't really go hand in hand.

AAA subscription> spare :lol:

Tore everything out of the back. Added in a small harborfrieght pump with tire plugs and can of fix-o-flat. Added about 4lbs back in but lost so much more without the tools and spare.