Motion Control Suspension coilovers
 

So MCS has gotten all the parts in to build the first run of coilovers for the FR-S and BRZ. MCS are basically the guys from Moton USA who started MCS when AST bought Moton.

I purchased a set of the double-adjustable remote canister versions and picked them up yesterday afternoon since I am only about 10 minutes from MCS. I had given them a take-off suspension so they assembled a stock-class compatible setup for me. They measured and located the spring perches at the correct location compared to stock, but I will double check them as well.

I'm going to try and get them on the car this weekend sometime. These should work well both on the street and autocross/track/etc. Last years STU winning M3 was using the same setup and the car is his daily driver.

Also these will work with a standard 2.25/2.5" spring, they have standard lower perches and MCS has made adapters to use the springs with a Subaru tophat.

Pictures!

Front Strut
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs_front.jpeg

Billet lower perch for stock front spring
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs_frontperch.jpeg

Rear Shock
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs_rear.jpeg

Billet lower perch for stock rear spring
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs_rearperch.jpeg

Rear drybreak fitting.
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs_drybreak.jpeg

Compression adjuster on canister
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs_compadjuster.jpeg

Hardware
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs_hardware.jpeg

Neat spring perches.

I'm pretty sure you do have to de-pressurize the shock to disconnect those dry-breaks though. You do with the JRZ ones anyway.

I will check with them. Could just make it easier to run the line versus unscrewing the fittings on the shock and canister.

Sexy.

MCS is bad ass.

pricey ... but very nice..:)

Bill

You will have to depressurize them. It's not hard to fill them back up again, though, all you really need is a rental tank and line from your local Airgas and a filling tool. I recommend hanging on to these things as you can tune the performance of the shock with gas pressure (and in Stock, I'd crank the pressure up to get the faux spring effect).

Filling tool:
http://performanceshock.com/index.ph...roducts_id=682

DO NOT, under any circumstances, try to disassemble the fittings on the shock and/or canister, ESPECIALLY if they are still under pressure. That is why the dry-breaks are there. You will ruin your shocks in more ways than you can imagine if you try to do that.

WOW these look SWEET.. OEM Springs?

How's the clearance gonna affect wider wheels with that collar?

SWEET.



Looks good


Simmons

The stock perches are just as wide so it shouldn't be an issue. I'm using 245/40/17 A6s with +42 rims and there should be plenty of clearance.

Lookin' GOOD! Hopefully my package will be on the doorstep tomorrow or Weds...

I've had them installed for a little over a week now, they are working very well on the street and I have my first event with them Sunday so hopefully I can get the dialed in.

Some astute observers may have noticed the front strut hole is slotted, MCS did this for those who wanted more camber out of the setup without using camber plates. The issue is I'm using these in stock class and slotting the holes is illegal. While MCS got everything else right with regards to the stock class rules, they made an oversight with the hole which I alerted them to right after I received them.

Within a day they had engineered a solution in the way of an insert which fits inside the slotted 16mm diameter hole which places a 14mm hole in the exact same location as stock, with the insert in the "stock" orientation. Within about a week they had them machined and in my hand, and today I installed them.

I can't say enough good things about working with them and how quickly things were resolved. In the future they will likely include the inserts with all sets, and are now thinking of producing this offset insert as well as one with the hole in the middle, so if you happen to work on the suspension you can always get it back to the exact same spot. I've used slotted struts before and usually just made a mark on the strut, but this would make things a little easier.

http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs/mcs_insert1.jpg
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs/mcs_insert2.jpg
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs/mcs_insert3.jpg
http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs/mcs_insert4.jpg

Stock strut to firewall bars make a good place to mount the canisters

http://philbedard.com/pics/mcs/mcs_front_canister.jpg

Any worries in having your remote canisters so close to a heat source?

Not really. It's the same place some others like the Eibach MultiPros mount. The driver side is nowhere near any heat really, the passenger side is above the exhaust and heats up a little more but not much. I checked the nitrogen pressure before and after driving the car pretty hard and saw no difference.

Did you take temp readings? I have remote canisters (on a different car) and it is also by the engine, although not as close as yours.

Here's a pic of the R2's similar mounting location.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...60497675_n.jpg

After driving pretty hard the drivers side one isn't even warm in any way. The passenger side canister gets a little warmer but not much. I guess I can get out the pyrometer tomorrow and check them before and after driving. The engine itself doesn't really give off enough heat n that area to make a difference but the passenger side sits above the exhaust.

So after driving fairly hard and then letting the car sit for a few minutes for things to heat soak it registered 96 degrees on the outside of the driver side canister and 102 on the one sitting above the exhaust. The engine block itself was about 160 degrees. This is from a standard pyrometer. I measured the before and after nitrogen pressure and the difference was 2-3psi.

I'm not worried about it but if someone was you could certainly use some reflective tape or heat blanket material around them.

This setup looks amazing...

Any updates?

@dwx: Any longer-term updates to what you've said above? These are beautiful.

Look just as good and work just as well as when I installed them 9 months ago. I've re-mounted the canisters onto the Grimmspeed front strut bar, that's about it.

I am getting ready to take them off the car to get them re-valved for higher spring rates and a couple other changes since I'm moving to STX next year.

@dwx: Did you end up re-valving for higher spring rates? If so, how's that working in STX for you?

hey @dwx do you have shock dyno's of these?

I have them printed somewhere I will see if I can find them.

what kind of sway bar or front endlink are you using? my mcs with whiteline front end link and stock sway bar binds like crazy. I need to find someone that produces shorter endlinks. a lot of popping sounds from the front turning

I am using the WL front bar with WL end links. I've used the Strano bar as well, never had any issues. I have never tried the stock bar with different end links.

Update on those shock dyno's:thumbsup: