DIY: Turn In Concepts Solid Aluminum Steering Rack Bushing Install (and review)
 

Before you get started, there are a couple things to note.

You will need an alignment after the install (you may be able to mark the rack to keep it aligned when you reinstall the rack, but it would still be a good idea to get an alignment afterwards).

You will need a C-Clamp, ball joint puller or similar tool to remove the stock bushings. If using a C-Clamp, you will need a section of 1.5” OD Steel Tube (0.065” wall) and a solid piece of aluminum or steel bar plate to spread the load between one end of the C-Clamp and the steel tube. The length of the steel tube depends on the size of the C-Clamp being used. For a 6” C-Clamp, use a 2 - 3” section of tube. You can probably pick up a short section at your local auto parts store in the exhaust section.

Step 1: Get the car up in the air with either a lift or jack and jack stands (make sure the jack can lift the car up high enough for you to get under the car).

Step 2: Remove the fiberglass under cover.


Step 3: Remove the aluminum under cover.


Step 4: Remove the two bolts for the steering rack.


Step 5: Using a C-Clamp or similar tool, press out the stock bushings. Note: on either side of the lower subframe, it sweeps up slightly. Position the steering rack so that the bushing is as low and towards this cutout as possible so you can get a straight shot at the bushing with your removal tool. You do not need to undo the steering coupler at the rack or the tie rod ends to do this. It will take some effort to position it just so, but there is just enough play in the steering coupler and tie rods to accomplish this job.





Step 6: Lubricate the o-rings on the TiC bushings with a non-petroleum based lubricant (soap and water works). Petroleum based lubes will damage the o-rings. I had some transmission assembly goop on hand formulated specifically for rubber o-rings.


Step 7: Slip one end of each of the TiC steering rack bushings into the bores of each of the steering rack mounting ears. The forward bushing halves will have to go in at a slight angle at first, so be sure to move the steering rack as far away and down from the subframe as possible to get the most clearance to get them into the bores. Use those cutouts again to help get as much clearance as possible.


Step 8: Line up the steering rack with the subframe and hand thread the bolts in a little. If you encounter some resistance with threading it in, you may need to wiggle the rack a little to take some of the load off the bolt while threading it in.

Step 9: Torque the bolts to 55ft-lbs.

Step 10: Re-install the undercovers, lower the car back down you’re ready for your first drive. J

Background: Since my first day of owning the FR-S, I’ve felt that the steering is a little laggy on the input/response. There’s a nice little chicane on my way home from work that I always enjoyed taking in my old WRX. Granted that car had some pretty serious suspension work and would take that chicane very nicely. The stock FR-S doesn’t quite have the same snappiness that my old car did and I really missed that.

Now, I have to admit that I was a bit hesitant about running solid aluminum bushings on the steering rack since I didn’t want to add a bunch of NVH. Rest assured, however, there is no discernible increase in NVH with these bushings. I paid close attention to how the steering felt before installing these and noted the feedback from the stock bushings. With these aluminum bushings, the amount of vibration in the steering wheel feels about the same as stock even over uneven bumps in the road. The response, however, is a whole different ball game. When you turn the steering wheel, the car turns…at the same time, like it ought to! Through my favorite little chicane, the car now snaps right and left with precision and crisp response. The FR-S can still use more steering response IMO, but there are other compliant parts in the system that will need to be replaced to get the response higher (like better tires and coilovers). This mod is a good step in the right direction.

Bottom Line: this is a fantastic mod and very appropriate for how this car was meant to be driven. It’s pretty easy to do in an hour or two with the right tools, and it’s pretty inexpensive as well. Good job TiC for getting work done!


Update: Took the FR-S out to Laguna Seca this last weekend and had a blast. With these bushings, the car is much more point and shoot than it was before. With the stock bushings, I'd find myself correcting slighty since the bushing would flex (deflection takes time) before the car settled in. Now, the car goes in the direction you point it the first time and is much more precise. I do have to make a disclaimer though. I did have the RS-3's on the car and a fantastic alignment from Robispec. Just for reference, my best time was 1:58.248 on an otherwise stock car.

Great DIY! We'll be putting our set in Tomorrow evening :)

I want some too!

How many thousands in suspension work did the WRX have? I never replaced any front end bushings on my WRX and the steering on that car was horrible. Dead spot in the middle and SLOW response because of the 16.5:1 rack ratio.

I was worried about NVH, good to hear that there's little discernible difference.

A couple of things to note - with a smaller puller you should not need to disconnect the steering linkage.

Should you need to it is imperative that you mark the splines.

Additionally, you must be very careful to keep from spinning the rack or the steering column while disconnected. If by some chance you do, and then line up the marks you can be off a turn or two on the steering. This will flip out the steering angle sensor and cause a TC module problem because the clockspring and steering angle sensor will be all confused.

The reset is you have to figure out which way you're off a turn on the steering, disconnect the linkage, center the wheel and tires, and then reconnect. Really not that bad if it happens, but still something to be aware of.

Maybe TiC can think about including the bushing pulling cup/pipe the way Whiteline does with their WRX/STI steering rack bushing upgrade? That was a fairly simple install on my STI, but I did have to disconnect the steering linkage.

I've successfully used a two jaw puller and a socket for pressing out soft bushings like this. Since the puller is just about flat it will give the proper clearance to the frame (when used horizontally) and also allows the use of a wratchet/socket to do the twisting (verses by hand) Or if you have them, air tools. Just remember not to go too fast or the puller will keep sliding off center.

I might have to consider a set of these bushings.. but I'll wait for more feedback before I pull the trigger.

we have a few other review sets out there so you'll see some more in the next few days.

Shouldn't need the socket. I was using a two jaw puller but the arms were too wide, switching to a smaller one which should work.

I use the socket so that it doesn't push the sleeve out of the bushing, often especially on older cars (not that we really have to worry about age yet) the rubber is deteriorated and pushing on the edges vs the center works better for wedging the bushing out.

That and in some cases the smaller pullers have a shaft that isn't large enough to seat properly in the bushing sleeve.. socket helps center and seat the puller.

Lots of different ways to use those things though, that's why I have a couple :D

Thanks for the review and DIY... just ordered a set and look forward to using your instructions for install. Hoping I won't need an alignment afterwards -- most alignment shops don't even have our cars in their systems yet.

Meh. Good alignment shops don't need the car in the system. In fact, unless you're doing an "in the green" alignment to stock specs (and the green range it fits into) I would find a more performance oriented alignment shop and get one that's actually good for performance driving.

FYI, I did not disconnect the steering coupler or the tie rod ends so there's no need to mark the splines. The act of removing the two bolts that retain the rack to the subframe will put the alignment off slightly. I know it sounds silly and I didn't believe my boss at first who told me it was a bad idea since I couldn't see how it would possibly change the alignment. But when I noticed my steering wheel was off a couple degrees from center, I realized he was right. No biggie.

Regardless, I'm really enjoying the bushings and I've got some RS3's coming tomorrow since my stock tires have been heat cycled one too many times.

Haha, yes, it was pretty done up. Let's see it was an '03 Wagon and here's what I did to it:

STi front subframe and steering rack (15:1 ratio was a great upgrade)
STi lower control arms all the way around
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
Hotchkis Competition Sway Bar Kit (1" hollow bars front and rear)
Kartboy Endlinks all the way around
Turn In Concepts SST Coilovers (AST 4100's custom valved by TiC with Swift Springs)
MSI Front Street Camber Plates
Vorshlag Rear Camber Plates
Whiteline Roll Center Correction Kit
Kito Auto Sport anti lift spacers
eBay front strut tower brace
Whiteline Quick Disconnect rear strut tower brace

Now, here's the kicker. At my local track, the bone stock FR-S is only 1 second slower on a 50sec course than the WRX was. My WRX had Continental ExtremeContact DW tires while the FRS was on the stock Bridgestone Turanzas.

Yeah, about the NVH, I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't notice a difference in NVH between the stock bushings and the solid aluminum ones.

Bugeye wagon, what what!

Guess I'm mostly sold on these. Thanks for the review.

Now all I need to get are motor mounts...not solid though.

Ok, slightly failed at my install attempt last night; my fault for not having the right tools.

Means I'll be doing it on the ground tomorrow at the track...

I completely agree with your statement about this car needing more crispness in the steering. It seems like it should react just a little quicker, hopefully with this mod it will. Still building confidence to take on these types of projects, great DIY's like this make it all the more easier. Thank you for taking the time to write this!

Sold. I'll be jumping on the GB. What about these in combo w the psrs bits?

i have PSRS (offset) which adds .5" of caster that are solid and HEAVY metal. heavy for what they are not like OMG i am not adding that weight to my car lol

just like the OP said, even though i am talking about PSRS, they made a VERY nice improvement on turn in and there was no NVH! it seems like all the companies are warning on their parts about NVH, guess they think a lot of us want the ride to stay exactly as it was from the factory. but i have done the PSRS and i have a few other bracing and suspension parts including a drop on an H&R super sports and my brz feels exactly like stock until i get into and start weavin and bobbin

:burnrubber:

Thanks for the info. Definitely two things I want to do to the car. Sorry for a bit of OT there just wondering- if you could get both maybe sell them as a package? OP THANK YOU. DIYs are pretty much how I get anything done... I know I'm not the only one.

So with a puller, the only thing needed is to remove the old bushings and put these in? Excuse my lack of knowledge on this sort of stuff.

Puller, grease, ratchet+sockets and a torque wrench will get 'er done.

Thanks again for the DIY -- got mine installed in an hour. :)

Finally got around to doing this. 2 jaw gear puller, 1 quarter per bushing (spread out the force, my puller's threaded rod OD was just a tad larger than the ID of the bushing sleeve and I didn't like that), and some time later I'm done. Pretty easy install as far as bushings go. My steering wheel is a bit off center, but I'm planning on an alignment in the next two weeks anyhow.

Install: 2/5 hardness, lower being easier.

Review: ?/5 goodness, higher being gooderer. I'll get back to you after some miles.

Is there anyway to self fix the alignment? I'm installing the STX legal ones in the next couple of days

I would assume you center the steering wheel in cabin (perhaps a friend could help), then adjust the tie rods. DIY driveway/garage alignment style.

I wonder if locking the steering wheel with the key out would help it from getting out of alignment?

Did it yesterday:

Here I missed one had to release the six black clips at the sides (edit: seven, one on top too) so when I was in the burrowed shop without tools, I had a bit of swearing, but eventually I managed :p

I made my own press tooling, 1,5" OD pipe 2" long, and a M8 5" threaded stub (mine was too long). Also on the left end, I should have used two nuts at the end tightened to each other so that it doesn't turn in the socket.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4...-4BxKf9R-L.jpg

Did this, didn't need a realignment.

Change in steering feel is pretty subtle, at least now you feel *something* from the actual road roughness other than dead steering weight, not at all NVH to me and my car is stock otherwise so I appreciate daily usability too. Pushing it, I can judge the front end a bit better too. As feel is a very valuable asset, I would do it again despite the rather subtle difference (an non-enthusiast wouldn't notice the difference).

It's been a while. I installed and then got an alignment. Anyone else notice a ping noise or binding and release somwhere in the steering rack after having these on? (during stopped or heavy load steering) I cannot for the life of me find it. I can only guess maybe the bolts are loosening up or the threads got stretched.

There is a pinging noise/feel around 3/4 to 1 turn both left and right with these bushings I think. It's not major and I hardly ever put on that much lock when driving so it doesn't bother me so much.

The bind/release is something I have been asking questions about on the forum but there are no answers yet. I am pretty certain that the steering bushings don't cause this.

Can you elaborate how you did the install with the steering wheel locked? is there enough play in the rack with the bolts that hold it to the frame removed?

Do these play nicely with the new BRZ tS rack bolts?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...13#post1702213

I'm sure they do. Just slightly concerned cause the TIC kit uses new hardware and they say the bushing bore is changed.

Bump for great justice.

I think I'll just get the Perrin Steering Rack Locks :-P

Nice DIY. I installed the Perrin Steering Rack Lock Downs and it does essentially the same thing. Steering is MUCH quicker/snappier. Best mod yet, IMO.

Did this last night, taking some of the advice posted above and used a 2 jaw puller, a quarter to spread the pressure of the puller, and locking the steering wheel before taking the bushings out. Fairly easy install once you get a good position for the puller. I've only had an hour to drive the car but immediately noticed an increased amount of feedback from the steering wheel. Jury is still out on steering response but so far this seems like a nice mod for the money.

Thats a nifty trick thanks for the post

Dagnabbit. Are these even stiffer than the Perrin Lockdowns?

If they are I need some in my life.

Hi there, any idea why the steering rack bolts only tightened to 55 ft-lbs whereas in the manual it is specified to 89 ft-lbs? Just want to make sure before I install my bushing tomorrow. Cheers