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Sound deadening
Can anyone comment on the effectiveness of Dynomat sound deadening? Does it really make a difference to "punchier" bass and better sound quality?
I've been quoted $300 inc. installation. |
It does make some difference. Take a look at brownbread and fatmat too.
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And raammat is also another good alternative
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as well as www.secondskinaudio.com awesome products.
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300$ for dynamat installed is very good, dynamat is on the top of the list, it's not cheap.
I have looked at other products and most of them suck . |
From my experience i stay away from any tar related products, especially tar Mats. but thats just me.
What your trying to ultimately achieve is altering how vibration travels to fit your needs. Which is different than just dampening sound. If you want to get cleaner sounds from your audio equipment, then a mat will do just fine. If you want better acoustics for your audio environment then id suggest going for a spray. Foams and Insulations are too bulky, to heavy, and only really absorb sound waves, not necessarily absorb vibration. |
what the clown said
;) first you have to establish what you want sound deadning and vibration control addresses specific issues but generally they are secondary to simply adding moar powa (amp) what are your goals? |
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To more specifically answer your question, yes. A given speaker (or "driver") can only be as good as it's signal quality, amplification, and acoustics. Sound deadening can very much affect acoustics. Compare listening to a fantastic home speaker system in an empty subway, or in a nice, quiet living room... Huge difference.
Most of the vibration absorbing materials used today are called "CLD" (Constrained Layer Damper). They're a super sticky layer of butyl backed by a thin malleable layer of aluminum. Good quality materials will stick extremely well to damn near anything, as well as forming to curves and ridges. Closed cell foam layers and vinyl materials all have their purpose, and if used in the correct applications/locations your car can be made to sound as dead quiet as a nice luxury car. Most people end up adding 2-6 sq ft CLD to each door skin/structure with a dense foam pad or acoustic tile on the skin behind the door speakers, and then 4-12 sq ft to the trunk area if vibrations are a problem. At minimum, you'd ideally want to add some CLD to any area of the body or interior panel that vibrates or resonates. Small patches usually do the trick, don't need to cover everything. See if you can get an explanation of what they're doing, because "installing Dynamat in the doors" leaves a lot of gray area... |
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Operating in an area where I knew less than nothing I decided to research who did and found Don at Sounddeadenershowdown to be highly regarded as an expert. Contacted him and he provided a listing of all the materials I'd need as well as detailed instructions for installing. Have never been happier -- my car sounds like I'm inside a refrigerator, only with a headunit going -- don't hear another thing.
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I contacted don twice , never got a reply 😢
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+1 on talking to Don at SDS. Here's a link to his website:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi As for me, I'll do CLD tiles and MLV on my doors, floor pan & trunk. I already have 68 sq ft of MLV and 50 sq ft of dampener, so I have more than enough. |
Yeah, I had a hard time getting emails back from Don too. I think I got 2 replies for about five emails. The last three were attempts to order with no response. I finally gave up and ordered just enough Dynamat from Amazon to kill the resonance vibration in my doors caused by the speakers. About 1 sqft on each door and 1 sqft on each door card did the trick for me. The emails I did get from Don were very informative.
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From that sounddeadener website what do you guys recommend for buying? I want to control sub vibration (in near future once crutchfield updates site lol) mainly in truck area and doors..
I ask because on that website i got hit with like a bunch of different types. |
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