Are GT86 Headlights Plug and Play with FRS?
 

EDIT
I just wanted to put in a quick edit to let newer members of the thread know the answer the question I asked in December. No they are not directly compatible, but it is a very easy fix to be honest.

In this thread Moto-P has provided an excellent source of information on how to repin them to make them functional. So, if you are thinking about getting the lights, but are worried you cannot install them, have no fear. It is actually one of the easier DIY's I have done to the car. I made a quick DIY that you can read here:
Installing GT86 Headlamps on your FR-S

Original Post below
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Hey guys, I am about to order the LHD w/ Eurospec leveling GT86 headlights. For those who have done this, are they plug and play or am going to have to do additional work once I receive the lights? I have tried searching but I am not having any luck.

I guess if no one knows I will have to be the test subject. Thanks guys.

Go to speedhunters. I'm almost 100% certain there was a step by step article they did on using EDM lights in an FRS

Awesome, thanks man, I will check it out. I appreciate the help.

no. wiring harness and connectors are different

yea its a bit different, might need work

I've done it and it's not too hard.
The connectors are different, jdm/eudm is an 8 pin connector (only six live pins), and the usdm is a 6 pin connector (only 4 live pins). So I de-pinned each and put all 6 pins from the jdm lamp into the 6 pin usdm connector. (I don't know the wiring off the top of my head but maybe I'll do a DIY write up.)
Reference: the wiring harness has 6 live pins but the usdm lamp is only using 4 (since High beams and DRLs are on the same line). The two unused pins are live when parking lights or headlights are turned on, so I pinned up the LEDs to those. And now I have full LED DRL and HID low/high functionality.

If you feel okay to take off the bumper and re-pin, it's not too bad.

http://www.garagefrs.com/jdm-headlight-conversion/

you are welcome

plan to do the same later next year

I expected a wiring change, but I was being hopeful there would not be one, however this seems really easy. Thank you very much guys.

How much are these lights going for these days?

Thats.. interesting.. are there no 'brights' with the EUDM/JDM HIDs?

So I looked at FRSgarage and how they did it but I prefer it my way. So the FRS High beams and DRLs are on the same wire. So what they did is plug that wire into the JDM LED DRLs and just left the high beams out. So they only get low and DRL, no high beams.

Instead of doing that, I removed the DRL resistor so that the DRL/high beam wire only works for the high beams (resistor is under the right lamp when you take off the bumper). Low beam wires go to the low beams. And the unused wires turn on the LEDs whenever the parking, low, or high beam lights are on. You lose the DRLs but I just run with the parking lights on.

You can see them here:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20956

There has not been much of a change in price to my knowledge, still about 2k.

Hmm... I like the sound of that. I would prefer that my LEDs be on all the time.

So I am about to order these, clearly I need the LHD euro spec, but do I need the leveling sensor? I am assuming that I do.

Thanks again for all the help and input fellas.

LHD eauro spec is the best way to go. You would likely get the high light cutoff on the correct side. However, I understand that if you order right from the factory, you will get the lamp unadjusted for either side, meaning you wouldn't blind people in either direction but you also don't benefit from a little extra lighting. My lamps are like this. Since I'm not being a blinding jerk to anyone, I don't mind not having the extra lumination off to the side.

The leveling sensor isn't necessary. The default position is the "0" height so it's where you would have your lights set most of the time. (but in case you want leveling, you need the sensor and leveling ecu).

I don't understand why these are still $2k! Hopefully the price will drop next year or the 2014 model FR-S will have hids...

cause it doesnt really need them to be honest. i think ill get white bulbs to make it a bit lighter than the stock halogen yellowish color.

visibility from the halogens is quite remarkable. it cuts a perfect stream for a great distance. i forget to turn my High beams on sometimes.

im going to find someone who can black out my stock headlights without effecting the brights, would be a lot cheaper than the JDM gt86 ones even though those are boss.

I was thinking of ordering the eurospec lights as well. If you order just the headlights, does it come with the bulbs ballasts and harness or do you have to order the one with the ecu and leveling sensor?

Thanks

I'd love a set of the LHD lights. The price needs to come down though.

Ah good question, thanks for bringing it up. I did not think of it. I have actually ordered mine now, so I can let you know when I receive them if no one else knows. I ordered the LHD lights without the ECU leveling sensor.

Yes mine came with bulbs and ballasts.

I emailed Nigel-jdmparts and he responded "The headlight come with everything but the hid bulbs" and he believes they use the D4S bulbs.

I think there is a correction that needs to be made where the Garage FRS says the High beams become LED. Actually there is a socket position changer that pulls the bulb back to high position built into the Japanese LED/HID Headlight and HID high beam can function fine with HID that's in there for the low beam.
The actuator is a simple 12V pin pair, and it can work just fine powering off the high beam leads on the FRS, as the low beam feed that powers the HID is still live in the USA models.

The LED's should stay on Low voltage mode during the night as it is not directional.
And when the resistor is bypassed on the USA socket the LED does work fine in the "high LED" mode at 3.3W as opposed to the "low LED" mode operating at 0.5w for night time, just enough to put the grid as decorative parking light strip.

In short, the USA headlamp sockets and nearby resistor harness (to bypass it and feed 12V to DRL LED pin 12+) under the right front bumper area can supply all the feeds needed to power the Japanese LED/HID lamps as designed.

Here's the pin identification if you anyone needs it.

Easiest and the most reliable way to wire the Japanese HID/LED lamps to Scion FRS halogen systems is to pull the pins out of both light assemblies and re-pin them into the proper socket location on the FRS lamp assembly connector. That way all connections are water-proof and original FRS sockets can be used without cutting most of them or tapping them at all, except one pin...
One can easily find another single pin male/female connector for this... I used the aftermarket HID bulb 1 pin waterproof socket as it is commonly available.
To remove the socket pins, you need to simply yank on the white plastic guide-locks to remove it, then finding the pin lock tabs for each one, move it up and pull gently on the wires from the back of the socket.


Japanese HID/LED (GT-Limited) "socket" pins:
#'s correspond to pin position in the 8 pin socket.

1. Not Used (Empty)

2. White - LED High (DRL 3.3W mode, 12V+ *must bypass the resistor on USA FRS to power this)
3. Green - LED Low (12V+ 0.5 w mode)
4. Black 12 Guage - LED Common GND

5. Red (12guage) - HID Ballast 12V +
6. Black (12 guage) - HID Ballast GND

7. Yellow - High Beam bulb position actuator 12+
8. Blue - High Beam bulb position actuator GND

On the USA Scion FRS 6 of the 7 necessary wires are all in the 6 pin socket, and it's a matter of re-pinning the sockets to proper locations. All of them except the pin needed for the DRL (LED-High 3.3w mode) are there.

To wire the DRL properly, pull the DRL resistor located on the right front bumper just below the horn assembly. Tap into the live 12V side of the harness and leave the resistor unplugged so it does not feed the high beam actuator in the Japanese assembly.

This is done because the USA FRS has the high beam bulb doing tha dual role of DRL and HIGH Beam, and Japanese assembly has LED High mode at 3.3 doing the DRL, and is separate from the actual HIGH beam which is done with HID main bulb with bulb position locator shifting the Low beam to high.

Take the live side tapped wire to the LED high 12V wire on the Japanese headlight assembly so you get full 12V, and at the same time leave the socket off the resistor so it does not feed the High Beam actuator with attenuated voltage that normally powers the FRS high side halogen... (yes I said this twice to remind you)...

On the Japanese headlamp, now you should have 6 wires left, after you connected the white to the DRL 12V circuit (with resistor bypassed)

**I'd just simply remove this resistor altogether as you don't want a shop or dealer plugging it back in. The FRS only needs it so it can under-drive a halogen lamp on high beam at lower voltage during DRL. The Japanese system does not use it, as it has a LED array that is designed for this, separate from the HID high beam.

Now you need to use this USA Scion FRS headlight "Harness side" custom socket diagram to put the pins in the right locations for the FRS socket to be used on the Japanese LED lamp to power the system correctly.

USA Scion FRS lamp assembly socket pin (6 Pin connector)

1. Green (High beam) 12V ----> Blue bulb position actuator 12V+
4. White (High beam) GND ---> Yellow bulb position actuator GND

3. Red - (Low beam) 12V------> Red HID Ballast 12V
2. Black - (low beam) GND-----> Black HID ballast GND

5. unused on FRS headlight but pre-wired on the car (parking GND)--------> 16guage Black LED Common GND
6. unused on FRS headlight but pre-wired on the car (parking 12V)--------->Green LED Low 0.5w mode 12V+

*7 not on the headlight socket, wired separately from the live side of the DRL resistor on the FRS DRL line. ------>White (LED High 3.3w mode 12V for DRL)
* leave the resistor disconnected.


Now you should be done.

Check Operation:

Parking lamp on = Low LED light up.
Headlight on = HID Low beam + Low LED light up.
High beam = HID Low and HIGH should now be lit with bulb relocated by actuator into the proper position inside the projector+ LOW LED lit.
Flasher = HID should power with actuator in high beam mode, and upon releasing the High mode LED also flashes for a split second (latter if the headlight is on)
DRL with all light switches in Off and with car in Reverse or Drive Gears, and parking brake down, engine on = DRL mode LED should be lit with full 5.5w really bright.

There you have it. Properly working like a Japanese GT-Limited 86.

Thank you very much @Moto-P and every one else for that matter. I will be sure to get pictures up as soon as I get the headlights and have them installed.

Seems to be people wiring it wrong where DRL fires up the high beam on the HID and complaining it won't work.. That's because the High beam lead on the Japanese headlight merely changes the bulb position with an actuator and the signal merely triggers the actuator to refocus light in the projector lens, and does not fire another bulb.

Also, I would really advise NOT to wire the 3.3w High LED mode to the any light position used for night time, as it is pretty blinding to oncoming traffic as it is really bright and non-directional. You can't impress people, but merely really annoy them if they are coming at you at night. It's function is DAYTIME Running light... :) The color may be cool white, but what you'd do to oncoming traffic isn't cool at all. Right?

You're welcome. Just be careful and test each wire. I did the best I could writing this and double and triple checked but I do this with ANY wire diagram... Just so I don't blow something...especially expensive LED circuits.

Now always work with killed wires and never with live wire.

Good luck and have FUN!!

looking forward for the pics :thanks:

The japanese headlight is referenced here. Is the wiring the same for the eurospec headlights?

they are the same headlight (IIRC) so i would think it would work correctly.

Yes, the back cover for the lamps have European/Japan/and even USA DOT markings... So I assume they are all built with the same electrical specs, and it should be the vehicle side BCU that is feeding the appropriate pins for the different lamp requirements in each territory for such things like DRL's.

Just a quick follow up. Fedex tried delivering these today but I was not home. I am going to pick them up tomorrow and try to get them in Saturday. I will let you guys know how it goes.

How long did it take from order to delivery?

That's interesting it has Euro, Japan and DOT approval. I'm not 100% about DOT regulations but I thought DOT = street legal for USA, but if they were JDM headlights with the wrong beam pattern then it would seem to be illegal or at least unsafe.

nice you dont need levveling but ballasts not included

Well turns out I told an unintentional lie. The FedEx package that I assumed was GT86 headlights was actually Eibach Springs. I do apologize. :bonk:

I guess the wait continues. I have Eibach springs too but waiting until the spring to install.

this is why im still waiting for these headlights to come to the frs, still holding out for those god damn headlights, I SWEAR TO GOD THAT I WILL NOT BUY FRS WITHOUT JDM HEADLIGHTS.. so yea no frs yet for me

I ordered mine around the end of December from nigel-jdmparts and they said it was a 6-10 week turn around. I am not too worried about it, to be honest I am not looking forward to taking off the front bumper. I have some fog lights waiting to be installed, I will knock them out all at once.

Problem with EDM headlights
 

I received my EDM headlights 2 months ago and installed them like the FRS garage website noted with the LED running off the High beams. Then came across Motor-P posting and re-pinned they with his instructions. Now I have low beams, low led when lights are on but no High led or High beams. I removed the DRL resistor and connected the white wire to the green wire from the resistor. Is there something I'm missing or something I can check? Thanks!

Were you able to solve your high led/high beam issue?

Check to see if your drl resistor wire is getting power. Also, try flipping your high beam wires. I followed moto-sans diagram and found out his high beam wires were reversed.

Thank you moto-p San for your work!