Wonky rear camber
 

So I installed my KW coilovers on Friday. Has anybody had a major differentiation between left and right rear camber. I'm looking at 1.7 on Rear left and 2.7 on rear right nothing appears to be bent just kinda weird.

Hi, its a pity that the camber is not adjustable!! I have -2 at both sides and i search for adjustable camber bolts!! Greets Jörg

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Just ordered White Line Rear arm bushing Kit

Sitting on an even surface? Heavy things inside the car on one side?

Ive put 2 different frs on my alignment rack and none were straight.

In some cars, you can loosen up the subframe and push it towards the side with not enough negative camber and then re-tighten it to make both sides a bit more uniform. I haven't tried on my BRZ but its worked on some others.

Mine is bad too i have -1.4 on the left and -2.5 on the right with just Tein H Tech springs, i am looking at the SPC and GTSpec lower control arms i don't know if i can get my tech's to install the camber bushing kit.

so anyone know what the best rear control arms are?

Im also lowered on kwv3s and have a rear of -1.9 and -2.6. (trying to achieve -1.5 in the rear)

SPCs price looks good but I dont know if they are quality, they dont look as beefy as DME, Cusco, or AP.

Turn In Concepts is using the SPC's which was good enough for me, i haven't had any trouble out of mine.

Same here; love my SPC's and their ease of adjustability.

I also have KWs and installed Cusco arms. I'm sitting at -1.2 in the rear.

Can anyone chime in on dme, AP, or gtspec LCAs? What make AP so much more expensive?

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I would most definitely get Whiteline over AP for roughly the same price. GC and Esoteric have some in the works too i believe. Out of the ones listed in your post i'd go GTSpec.

I have the AP and love them, with every single other arm you have to remove the bolt to the subframe to be able to adjust it. With the AP setup you can just hop under the car loosen the lock nuts and adjust the length of the LCA without removing the bolt. Some people will say that the threaded rod is a weak point, but after seeing the Cusco arms and GT Spec which are just stamped and welded steel vs. the machined block of aluminum with steel fittings that comprise the AP unit, the extra cost is worth it. The Whiteline looks amazing, but i don't think it's even out yet but it would have been my only other choice if it was available when i needed mine. Also AP is red and I like red!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...S/DSC00040.jpg

What about DMEs? I want to wait for whitelines but it would be nice if we had a price estimate b/c if theyre priced over 600 id be turned off

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I would have to agree with being a bit nervous about that design. The threaded rod joint too far in the middle of the control arm and it will flex and fail on the threaded part of the adjustment rod. There's a reason they put rod ends at the very end of the other suspension arms.

I saw a similar setup for upper control arms. Easy to adjust, looked way over-built, but it failed because a threaded rod shouldn't be in any kind of bending moment.

I would rather have the "weak" point (threaded rod) inboard of the shock mounting rather than between the wheel and the shock.

All the force exerted on the shock is going to be from the wheel, if you put the weak point between those two then you have a potential failure point. With it inboard like these the only load it's carrying is the load required to keep the arm in place plus any side to side loads.

I agree with what you are saying, but the in-board rod end design in this case is not as "in-board" as I would want.

My camber was. -0.1 rear left -1.1 rear right. Had the whiteline rear upper control arm eccentric bushings installed.

I used whitelines rear chamber kit. I have a even -2.3 on both sides. I have buddy club racing coilovers. The upper control arm kit is great but the old part is press fitted so its a pain to remove.

-Alex

So whats a good number we should be looking for? I currently have Eibach sportlines and -2 on rear left, -2.4 rear right. Was looking at adding the whileline bushings, will that get me back to .0?

Thanks

You don't want to be at 0 camber, i am about -1.5 on the rear which is pretty conservative but i don't have as much drop as you. What you have actually isn't terrible is that with you in the car?

Thats with the printout the dealer gave me, how can i check with myself in the car?

It won't change much with your weight in the driver seat but if it closened the gap any at all i probably would be ok with it. What's the toe look like?

Do we really need more than a degree or so of static camber in the rear with the multilink setup? They're supposed to have better dynamic camber curves than a McPherson correct?

Nathan

threaded rods just scare me now.. i once had an R34 GTR go off in front of me on some touge when his rear ikeya formula adjustable arm threaded rod end sheared off. scared me for life.

This is the printout from the dealer.

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/.../alignment.gif

Get some oem camber bolts for the front you need some negative camber up there. Rear is a judgement call I'd probably get some spc lower control arms to bring it back down to -1.8 or so.

I have the oem bolts on order. Once i get those in, think i should take it back to the dealer for adjustment? Or just tweak myself?

I was also thinking of swapping this all out for new coilovers, so thinking i will hold off on the rear arms. Hate to spend that money and then just switch it out in a few months. Probably be selling these eibach springs shortly. Thimk i am just better off with adjustable coilovers.

The downfall of springs, most people do end up switching eventually, i got something that would last me 6-12 months while waiting on the coilovers i want to come out.

You don't have to go back to the dealer, you can if they won't charge you again but a tire shop with a decent alignment rack can do it too.

You'll still want the rear arms if you get coilovers.

- Andrew

The rear camber for these (or any cars) should take the tire, spring rate (or effective wheel rate) as from the front and rear into consideration.

With sport springs, I set most people up with front ofset strut mounts (the whiteline, etc) and the whiteline camber bolts.
Most people who want a sporty alignment will end up with between 1.2-to-1.8 rear negative camber.

I was able to get almost even rear camber on KWs at -2.0 L and -2.1 R. I don't have any rear adjustment either, it just happened that way.

I made that mistake on my last car. bought springs then wound up with a nice set of coils about 6 months later. So this time I just went straight to coils!

The way the geometry works on the FT86, the camber when lowering is important, but rear toe is super important as well.
I have been selling quite a few GT-Spec toe arms (I like their construction) to get rear toe dialed.

Alignment is so important, we had adjustable arms on our car before we change the springs and shocks at all! I think many people would be surprised to see how fast you can go with the stock suspension: the take away is that alignment is what makes everything work.

Does this mean that rear toe is not adjustable from the factory? I always thought it was.

it is

This thread is scaring me...I've been on the edge of buying BC Racing Coilovers w/ the extreme drop kit for a long time, I have the money, something's just been holding me back.

I want to get rid of that hideous wheel gap, but doing that is going to cause me to have some whacky ass camber that I can't fix without dropping $500 to be able to adjust the read camber, am I right?

How much does changing the length of the lower rear control arms effect track width? Is track width effected more or less with the adjustable bushings vs. the lower control arms? I'm more worried about doing this right, but I don't know if one way is really better then the other.

I like those SPC control arms, they're so simple and the price is down right cheap for what they are.

Decisions decisions.

Will these be necessary / enough to correct the front and rear camber while on KW v3s

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA326

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA416