Cusco FSB with master cylinder brace - A heads up for AT owners
 

FYI
Got my Cusco front strut bar with the Master Cylinder brace today and upon installation found that the MC side requires removing a wiring harness clip and bracket and relocating a small harness.
I basically had to shove it underneath the MC piston chamber and zip tie it for now until I can come up with a better way. I probably should have just left it floating which I may do. I don't think it would do any real harm, I just didn't like the idea of it resting on the brake lines.

I can't imagine it's going to be any different for the BRZ.
I apologize if this has been covered previously. I did do a cursory search.

A top view of the clip and bracket.

http://i.imgur.com/ruwky.jpg


Moving the harness under the master cylinder piston chamber.

http://i.imgur.com/nuuW1.jpg


Here you can see, even after relocating the harness, the strut mount/MC brace will not sit flat without removing that little metal bracket.

http://i.imgur.com/7N4P5.jpg
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*UPDATE*: As requested, I took some photo's of how/where I located the wiring harness for the AT. It ain't pretty, but it works.

http://i.imgur.com/qCvkK3Z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MuFHI25.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ad7Mc4l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aHwJBvM.jpg

Thanks for the post. Mine arrived today, with the catch can... I went to install it then i remembered i left my socket set at my buddies house from when i was tearing down a yaris... FFFFFFffffffffffff lol.

Hmm, there doesn't seem to be any mention of having to relocate anything on the BRZ...:iono:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOAF2i5OWLo"]Cusco Strut Tower Bars - Unboxing, Install and Review - 2013 Subaru BRZ | Scion FR-S | Toyota 86 - YouTube[/ame]

I have the same bar with MC on my BRZ. No issues as mentioned above.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

The plot thickens....

Is that wiring harness even present on the BRZ?

Ohh ghaaawd I hope this doesn't result in a derp moment....

That is odd. On ours we had no issues at all.


http://content.rallysportdirect.com/...e/IMG_8456.jpg
http://content.rallysportdirect.com/...e/IMG_8462.jpg


Let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Rick

I'm guessing it does not. Never noticed that before..

Hope it's an easy fix for you though :)

Thanks,
Rick

Yeah it only delayed the install like 10 minutes.
I need to identify what it is.
It may have something to do with the automatic trans.

I installed it in my FRS (6MT) and no issues. Like you said perhaps it is on auto.

Mine is one the way and I have an AT. I hope there won't be any surprises. BTW, did you guys have to cut anything for the rear bar?

i believe you do have to cut your trunk mat a bit

I have a BRZ AT and there is a bracket and line that, indeed, needs to be moved/relocated, but from what I can see it doesn't seem to be too bad. I can probably use some zip ties to get it out of the way, but it does seem that the bracket has to be removed. :(

I guess most tuners just don't test their gear for AT's. :thumbdown:

Okay, then it's settled. Must be for the AT trans.
Yeah, it was no big deal.
It was a WTF moment, and then it took all of a few minutes to test the possibilities, take a few pics and move on.

Rear mat required a small piece to be trimmed away on either side of the bar. If I had to guess, I would say the piece I notched out was roughly 2" x 3"
It does require some patience for rear bar install, unlike the front bar.

I'm holding off on the rear strut bar indefinitely for now. In my experience the rear has been overkill. Especially for street use only.

Yeah I agree, but it looks so sexy! ;)

Did you trace where those wires go? I'm assuming that it is for the AT, but now I'm curious.

-Zach

I tried. It originates from the driver side firewall and goes to the top what looks like the top of the auto transmission.

Ok, I just installed the Cusco front strut tower bar w/ the master cylinder brace. Got a few questions and an issue...

1. Doesn't the car need to be lifted to unload the struts and then the bolts tightened? I remember being told to do this for my other strut tower bar installs in the past.

2. The red button that braces the master cylinder isn't attached to the bolt that pushes against it. Isn't there a chance that the vibration from the car/motor will loosen the bolt and the red button come loose and lost? Makes me a little nervous seeing it like that. What have you guys done for it? Have you seen signs of any loosening? Issues?

3. I hand tightened the strut tower nuts. How hard do you need to tighten these?

4. How hard/tight do you need to brace the master cylinder?

5. I dropped, and lost, one of the washers that goes on the 8mm allen bolt that holds the tube to the strut towers. Anyone got an extra? Without it the bolt just spins free.

Otherwise, the strut tower bar looks awesome. I'll let you guys know how it feels/results once I get some seat time with it complete. :thumbup:

1. I have heard this before somewhere, but I never bother to do it, as I figure the main point of the bar is just to tie the towers together to prevent movement, and once the bar is on, it will do just that regardless of the chassis load during the install.

2. I made sure ours was plenty snug, and then gave it another quarter turn to almost press the master cylinder into the firewall, I felt that was good enough and nothing was going anywhere lol.

3. Those will be 14.5 ft/lbs

4. I did not notice any torque specs, but according to my Rick hand-Torqueometer I would say 30ish Ft/lbs is what I did ours to.

5. I am assuming this is the lock washer correct? If so you should be able to pick one up from your local hardware or auto parts store :)

I dropped the nut when doing ours and spent a good 20 minutes fishing it out from the undertray lol.


Thanks,
Rick

1. No just install on a level surface
2. Just crank it nice and tight
3. Tighten them nice and tight. Don't go crazy using your body weight. Tighten them as much as you can by hand, then give them a good half turn or better with rachet
4. See number 3, but tighten a full turn or better with rachet
5. Take the existing washer you have and go match it up at your local hardware or automotive outlet

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Thanks guys for the quick replies. Makes me feel better.

So all of you guys haven't seen the MC brace nuts get loose after regular use of your cars?

Do all strut braces require modification on AT cars or is only because of the master cylinder brace? Sorry i didn't read the thread thoroughly it's late lol.

Yes, but it's really not a big deal. All you have to do is unscrew a bracket and re-route a wire.

Mine's still tight after a few hundred km driving.

you should raise the car and take the load off the strut towers. Install and torque bolts down then lower the car on the wheels. This will put more tension on the bar. Especially important on strut bars that don't have an adjustable preload feature.

No. As you stated it is due to the MC brace on this particular product.

Somewhat unrelated questions- did u guys actually torque to a specific spec? I just tightened till it was tight, not sure if i should bother torquing it or something. Didn't think it really mattered since its basically cosmetic.

A quick update. That flat washer for the bolt that ties the bar to the two strut tower bar is an 1/2" flat washer. I picked up a bag of 4 for like $1.99 at the local Home Depot.

Also, what I've been told is that you have to unload the suspension to install a strut tower bar. Since when the car is in the air the struts have no tension in them. I'm getting my first oil/filter change tomorrow along with my Perrin CBE installed. I might ask the guys, while the car is up, to re-torque the strut tower bar with the suspension unloaded.

I do not want to talk above my level of knowledge, but I'm 95% sure I read somewhere that Cusco said not to install the brace with the suspension unloaded. Gave all sorts of technical advice about how the goal is not to put extra stress on the bar, but rather to brace the car in its natural state, yadda yadda.... I'd love to find the exact link to where I read that, but I spent a whole evening reading up on strut-tower bars online before installing mine, and there were dozens of sites I was reading info on. Honestly, I'd call Cusco and ask them.

Personally, I installed mine while it was flat on the garage floor: the bar went on quickly and easily, no problems, and seems to be doing its job just fine (i.e. I can feel the difference in handling with it up there).

I don't mean to bring up an old thread, but wanted to ask. Can anyone who installed this strut bar on an AT show me where they relocated the harness clip and bracket? I picture or something would be great.

Thanks for any help!

I've added pics per your request to the OP.
:cool:

Perfect...the pics are very helpful...thank you.