Another FA24 swap
 

It's here. Ready for install. Hopefully we'll get some cooler weather so it won't be so miserable working in my garage.

Best of luck! I am looking forward to this one

This is going to be a sick project! Can't wait for the updates!!

Definitely interested in this swap!

Any plan for oiling upgrades?

Make a build thread, so we can use it as reference ��

Setrab 46 row cooler. I may remove the oil to water cooler.

It's in the car. Rear motor mount bolt hole was clearance by RS Mtrs but still kind of close with my motor mounts. RSM modded crank sensor, mount, and wheel. Another member sold me the vacuum booster line from an auto car. I had to bend the mounts and tubing for clearance. I had to fab a top bracket for the DI driver.

Per RSM, I will need to modify my alternator bracket. Everything else looks to be bolt in/plug in.

honestly seems not too bad for a swap/50hp upgrade if your engine is blown

Plenty of clearance for my turbo kit:)

It's running. A couple of minor hick ups Throwing a P0341 sensor A code. I've contacted RSM. Per RSM: I used my alternator mount (after mild modifications) but my accessory belt is loose. Prolly need to source 22+ one. Steam from coolant spilt on header.

Looks like I've got to source an alternator mount. Not enough tension on the belt using my modified FA20 one. RSM zip tied a washer to one of the forward facing AC compressor bolt holes. The one closer to the center of the engine. Sure enough, there was a gap when I went to mount the compressor.


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ME33zrThmE0

Should I ever frag my original engine, this will be my solution. It's a no-brainer.

Maybe I missed it, which ECU are you using?

Pretty sure it's the stock ECU.

It is my stock 2013 ecu.

The loose belt was caused by using my 2013 belt. The water pump pulley on the 2022 is smaller than the 2013. Just my luck, none of the local part stores stock the 2022 belt nor the 2013 intake cam position sensor. I ordered both items from RockAuto and will get them next week.

Offset and center hole size on the pulleys are different so the 2013 pulley won't work on the 22 engine.

Are other pulleys same?
I'd like to reuse my electric water pump on FA24 so the water pump pulley might not be an issue.

My 2013 engine was blown and stock FA24 was sourced. I wonder how RS Motors kit solved the CPS target wheel interference.

Attachment 225551

Check their FB pages. There are pictures of their cam trigger plates. All of the other pulleys look the same.

Ah, I meant the crank position/angle sensor and its target wheel.
I already have two sets of stock cam gears. No more cam plates, please.

Look back on page one of this post. There is a picture of the trigger plate and pickup.

Other posters have speculated that RSM puts the crank trigger plate in a press and flattens it out. Maybe he takes it out to his parking lot and runs over it a couple of times.

Swapped intake cam position sensors Pass to driver's. My P0341A did not change. Now, I've got to dig a little deeper. RSM is available to help but from afar. I found a diagnostic procedure for a 2013 Outback. I'll try to replicate it with mine.

I was working on hooking up a new oil cooler. I thought I would reuse my lines but I kept getting shiny bits when I flushed oil through one of them. Ordered some new AN10.

I've read that and it's hard to find the difference of a few millimeters by comparing pictures of different angles. But it is clear that the target wheel in your picture has enough gap over the right-side cover.

It should be the easiest way to bent the target wheel and make a sensor adapter for that.

Attachment 225560

Possibly caused by the gap between the sensor and the cam trigger plate?

Attachment 225561

Thanks. Good suggestion. RSM has made a bunch of these plates and I'm sure it's all cnc machining for consistency. I'll rule out a wiring issue first.

Got my new belt. Fits like it was made for the car...Oh yea, it was. Lesson: you can't use the 2013-2016 belt on the FA24's

I tracked down the P0341 code to a loose wire in the plug to the sensor. RSM is sending me a new pigtail. None of the local part store had the right one.

Still getting P0341. RSM sent a replacement plug. I installed it and continuity was good on all 3 wires. Cleared codes but CEL came on when I started the engine. My Actron code reader shows 2 P0341's. One is listed as "pending".

I drove the car around. Got it up the 200* oil temp. Cleared the codes and my CEL was off when I refired the engine but it came back on when I blipped the throttle. Same 2 P0341's.

I saw a clip of a guy on Youtube who said it may take several drive cycles for some cars to clear a code once the problem is solved.

I'll drive it around this week and see what happens. If it doesn't clear, I'll do some datalogging.

Still getting P0341. RSM sent a replacement plug. I installed it and continuity was good on all 3 wires. Cleared codes but CEL came on when I started the engine. My Actron code reader shows 2 P0341's. One is listed as "pending".

I drove the car around. Got it up the 200* oil temp. Cleared the codes and my CEL was off when I refired the engine but it came back on when I blipped the throttle. Same 2 P0341's.

I saw a clip of a guy on Youtube who said it may take several drive cycles for some cars to clear a code once the problem is solved.

I'll drive it around this week and see what happens. If it doesn't clear, I'll do some datalogging.

I've driven around this week. No change in the P0341 code. The engine runs really well, good power. Today, I tried use my Ecutek stuff to datalog but I couldn't get it to connect to my ecu. I've read where their cables can be dodgy. I'm going to see if someone in my area has a scan tool. Maybe I can figure out where my issue is without throwing parts at it.

I don't like this. Wish I could attach my OBDLink to verify that your VVT is operating properly (slewing). Do you have TechStream?

I don't have Techstream. I was hoping using Ecktek logging would give similar information. I'm going to try my Ecutek again with a newer laptop and also check around my local car community for some help.

The car runs great. No drivability issues at all. This leads me to believe that the vvt is operating correctly and the ecm, for some reason, likes this code.

Alternator and bracket
 

If you do one of these swaps, get the 2022+ alternator AND bracket.

You can trim the old bracket and almost make it work with a 2022+ belt but mine always had a slight squeak similar to the "crickets". RS said to shave the bracket to move the alternator back 1/8" but then I didn't think the idler pulleys would align.

I found a 2022+ bracket thought I was home free. The 22+ alternator is slightly different. I made it work but ended up using a 2013 belt.

The P0341 is still a problem. RS said he is going fly out here to fix it.

https://motor-fan.jp/weboption/artic...nc09_a75i5483/

They did similarly.

I ran my FA20 alternator and bracket just fine

What modifications did you make? Can you post a picture or 2?

watching this thread. May I ask on the cost of the motor?

reading the thread and hope everything is well

Thanks for asking. My car is fixed and I'm waiting for RMS to tune it and then ship it back to Va. The saga of the issue is here:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154967

The saga is over. My FRS arrived home earlier this afternoon.

Now that the FA24 is tuned, the car accelerates like a bat out hell. No dyno printout as the car was road tuned.

RSM is great to work with and stands behind his product. If only certain a customer was a better diagnostician.

What ended up being the issue? Ron mentioned to me that he had an issue with a tuner doing something wrong resulting in a cam position issue, was this your problem?

edit: nvm, just saw the other thread lol. defective sensor out of the box, wack. not unheard of though.