Starter Replacement - Stripped Starter Bolt
 

Hey all, my starter went out. Started doing the work today following the YouTube guide posted on the forum. Seemed easy enough, then taking off the lower bolt that holds the starter in was a PIA! Came out crazy stripped and not sure how the damage is on the transmission / engine block.

I'm looking into using a tap but the ones I've seen don't seem deep enough. Can I even use a tap without dropping the transmission?
Would it be a terrible idea to just secure it with one bolt?
Kind of at a dead end at the moment. What do yall suggest?]

What are the length of the bolts? It's possible the transmission has been out and someone put in a bolt that was too short. A longer bolt might catch enough threads to hold.

It's an M10 x 1.25 about 3in long below the head. I'm pretty sure its factory I ordered a set from the dealership.
I did have my clutch replaced about 3 years ago I'm thinking that's when it got cross threaded.

Drop trans and helicoil it. That hole is toast. Sorry.

I died a little inside. :(

Been dead all day lmao
I was hoping there was an alternative but it's looking like dropping the tyranny might be the way.
I know a diy shop I can do it myself about 40 mins away from me.
Would it be dumb to hook up the new starter bolt it down with one bolt then drive out there to do the fix? I'm guessing it'd be fine but now I'm overthinking it a bit

Well, Bubba suggests you get a new bolt, smear it up good with Loctite (Red), screw it in there and see if it holds.

:thumbsup:

(well now, at first Bubba just wanted to weld the starter in place, but, I talked him out of that - :iono:)

That's actually not a bad idea. One screw will be enough for a while. Don't go cinching it down extra tight. ;)

"dropping the tyranny" haha

Here's how I keep the engine from flopping forward.

I've never fixed threads before. If I go that route do I need to up from a 1.25 to a 1.50 or what's the best way to go about that?
I looked into the heli coil and got even more confused ��

You could just leave the starter out and push start the car.

10mm is the diameter. 1.25 or 1.5 is the pitch of the threads. So if the stock bolt is 10mm x 1.25 then you need a 10mm 1.25 helicoil kit. The kit usually comes with a tap and drill bit in the instructions along with the insert tool. I’d recommend looking it up on YouTube. Should be a “how to” or three on there.

Timeserts are also good. Just keep in mind it is really important you drill and tap the threads needed for the repair insert straight or you are going to have problems. Especially a bolt that long.

Just added a link to a knot diagram site in your engine strap thread.

Yesss! Thanks!

+1 Straight hole and tap are critical. If the tap is started crooked, game over.

That metal plate betweent the starter and the bolt entry point. I'm guessing that's a ground for the harnesses so without that pressed against the block the car will probably not start or have other issues?

I can't visualize this right now. I will take a look when I get home, or maybe someone else can answer this before hand.

Not hard to do. A couple of years ago, I stripped out the threads for a timing belt idler on an ej.

There wasn't enough room for a drill. I used a "T" handle on the drill bit and was able to bore out the hole manually. Aluminum is soft so it wasn't too difficult. Tapped it, screwed in the coil, and was good to go.

You don't have to worry too much about getting the hole straight because the existing hole is already straight.

I had a friend strip a cam cap thread on an EJ25 and he got the helicoil off using the existing hole. Was not a fun repair. I can't remember what insert I used to fix it but it was just big enough OD to work. The cam cap bolts on the EJ have a tapered shank so it was super important that it was perpendicular to the head. I have a tap guide block somewhere that I used to fix it.