!!NEED HELP!! Over tighted pedal nut
 

Hi guys,
I just removed my pedal to install Cusco gas pedal. While I'm putting everything back, It's quite small space for turn the wrench so I keep turn it because I can't feel the tight and accidentally I over tighted the upper bolt. It's broke into piece like the pictures below.
https://i.ibb.co/YPXzLD2/IMG-20230303-182308.jpg https://i.ibb.co/SwYkMx2/IMG-20230303-182319.jpg https://i.ibb.co/f1Ssb7g/IMG-20230303-182532.jpg https://i.ibb.co/bQVBXPr/IMG-20230303-182323.jpg

Any suggestion to fix it?

Oof that’s a tricky one.

You could try and knock what’s left of the stud out and then see if you can bond a new one in there?

You could also drill it out and slide a nut in from the backside, then thread a piece of threaded rod into the nut.

You could also drill it out, install a rivnut, and then use a bolt or threaded rod in the rivnut.

Hard to tell from the pictures, but you may be able to get a rivnut in there that will work.

It's amazing how applicable your signature is to this thread.

lol it's there for me as much as anyone. I have broken so much stuff in my time "learning." :D

Thanks for the suggestions.

Will rivnut fits in side tiny space in the back of bracket?
or just weld a stud in will it work?

Rivnuts are installed from the front side with a special tool, or using a bolt and nut. The hole that you have may be too big though for one so you will have to check/measure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqVez5oyWOE

I don’t have a solution, but for small things like this I like to take an extension and the 10mm socket to use as a compact screw driver.

I do that all the time even though I have a set of nut drivers :bonk:

All day long. Less tools to switch out. Better balance between grip and ability to spin on or off.

Nut drivers have their place but socket+extension is way more versatile. Some extensions are knurled for just that reason.

not really helping at all but just for future reference most stuff "IN" the car are usually only around 20-25 n/m so pretty much a light hand tight. except stuff that's bolted to the frame of the car like seatbelt or seats...

20-25nm is boarder line too tight for those. 6mm mid grade fastener should only be like 8ftlb which is like 10-11nm.

After I did a search for similar problems, there is not much information for me. I will try to hammer the stamped stud out first (maybe with a extractor also) and wish the god of subie is kind to me XD. if not, cutting the leftover piece and drill will be my only option but this will be a difficult job for sure with a little room there and yes like many of you said "ONLY HAND TIGHT ANYTHING INSIDE THE CAR"

It's not so much inside-versus-outside. Everyone has over-torqued fasteners. Everyone has cross-threaded fasteners. The lesson here is to understand that it's natural to want to get in there an really cinch it down tightly so it doesn't come loose. We must learn to fight that urge.

For newb friends I've had under my wing, I put old screws in the vise and had them turn nuts slowly until they strip. Materials vary. Aluminum is super tricky because the threads yield - begin to strip - more gradually than steel.

Use a torque wrench.

That one will be a bitch. Cut the weld stud down flat. Drill & tap to 6x1.0 mm thread. You might need a bottom tap to finish the job but it's doable. Cut a hex head cap screw to the correct length and clean the threads until it starts nicely.

What if I sand surface of stud both in the car and the broke. use JB weld to stick it together and find something like a straw that perfectly fit the size of the stud to hold it while waiting JB weld to set and cure?

I fucked up. Started writing before I saw your third pic, which shows the dilemma perfectly. See my edit. :bonk:


JB weld is only good for wide surface area. It's still just glue.

I just tried to put my pinky finger under the pedal bracket there. It elevated from the firewall and I can feel like there is a flat head stud and the gap between firewall and the bracket is about 5mm. So drill is possible but it can't be tap

You can use a bottoming tap to thread it.

I was such a dufus coming in here, glossing over the posts.


https://i.imgur.com/Wf1WQGM.png

I was looking at it wrong too :bonk:

Need to cut that flush, center punch it with an auto punch, and drill it out. Then try to nutsert it.

Speaking of nutserts, here's plan b. Could even jb-weld the screw head and washer in place.



https://i.imgur.com/31f7Mz5g.jpg

That is a good idea.

I am lethal with a dremel and a short stack of cutoff wheels.

I will ask a cnc shop for making a pedal spacer. Instead of drilling and cutting.

Verus spacer as a reference but use the lower hole of pedal bracket as mounting point of a spacer and flatten of the broke one. Honestly, I don't feel comfortable for cut or drill anything if I have another choice.

That's a good idea! any idea what kind of fastener you plan on using in that hole?

If you need a CAD file feel free to PM me a sketch with dimensions of what you need. I don't have a spacer for reference but i can whip up a 3d file and a basic drawing they can use to make a toolpath.

No idea for fastener yet, maybe just a flange nut.
I will maeaure the clearance again and try to write it on paper first.

Thank you for your help. if I need a CAD file I will PM you :bow:

That’s a good idea. If you can get a CAD file sites like sendcutsend.com is a cheap place to have parts made.

Just FYI you can run about 10mm thick and still use the factory bottom stud to hold the pedal. I am running 10mm spacer and using the factory studs. If you go with a thicker spacer you may need to space out the pedal stop too or you risk damaging the pedal.

Thank you for the information.

If you want to make a spacer like the versus one, with offset studs, you may be able to use the threads on the broken stud as is. you can make the counterbore much deeper, i doubt you need more than 2-3mm of aluminum to get the strength you need out of it.

Just keep this thread going. That's why we're all here. I love seeing someone else's creative solution as much as my own. I appreciate the desire to mimimize irreversible work too!

That's a good idea! I measured it. the broken stud is only 5-6mm left with 2mm thick of counterbore it will be 3-4mm for thead. Is it ok for that?

Rule of thumb is for threaded contact to be as deep as the diameter. Would be close but maybe ok.

If you can get 3 threads on there I would feel comfortable with it.

I've called it good with less and a dab of loctite.

I forgot that lower stud is 25mm long. 10mm spacer is not enough to hide that stud under pedal if I want to make it like Verus (my car is rhd):bonk:

well you shortened the other one somehow :bellyroll:

i got the same problem
2024 anyone can help ?

There are a couple of kind of "Nutserts" out there. There are the ones that have a small diameter expansion and then there are the ones that spread out a lot.

Here is a pic of the large flange type: Split Side Nutsert

You could always just drill out the spot welds on the bracket and put a new stud in there. That's harder though. Nutsert is probably the best way to go.

Be careful and don't drill a hole through the floor.

Bolt part no. 901380002 buy it at Subaru