Is my 86 healthy??
 

I looked at my diagnostics with the OFT v2 tablet and wanted to know if everything’s running fine. I had it parked and idling while I ran the diagnosis. But as far as under the hood goes I’ve only added JDL UEL headers, a GrimmSpeed CAI and the Remark x FT Speed Quad Catback exhaust. I’ve had the tune on for some time. And I do my regular oil changes every 3-5k miles.

Better do a Compression Test and Blackstone Lab oil analysis.

What do you see that leads you to make that recommendation?

:iono:

You don't see it? I see it.

From what I can see, none of those things on the OFT indicate there's a problem.

I think the better question, is why are you asking if it's healthy? Is it characteristically doing something wrong? CEL? Running rough? Weird sounds?

If not, a compression test and oil analysis will tell you more.

OP, Teseo's just yanking your chain. ;)

While driving, glance at your long-term fuel trim and knock correction for the most important indicators. LTFT should be within +/- 5% -ish. Shouldn't have any knock correction.

Looks golden at idle.

OK, soooooooo, ya wanna share what you "see"?

:confused0068:

I see a smoothly idling engine. ;)

Numbers on a screen! duh!!:bonk:

Uhh... Advance multiplier is 0. That seems bad. You normally want that at 1. (Edit, unless the tune has IAM set to 0, but that seems odd for an OFT tune)

OP, take a log and post it to datazap or something. Screenshots don't actually tell anyone much of anything.

Also an oil analysis will tell you how the hardware inside the engine is doing.

Edit:. Wow, how'd you screenshot stft at 0? That's normally all over the place.

Depending on injection mode it could go to 0 on stft I believe. That's why you usually log injection mode too.

IAM at 0 is weird. I almost think there is an issue with the OFT reading correctly. Possibly need to unplug and reconnect the OFT and the cable into the OBD2 and check again. If it was actually at 0 on IAM it would feel really really sluggish.

Hey, you're right!
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126500

I even knew about that at one point... :bonk:

I see that now! Thanks for linking threads. :cheers:

"Now cough ...
Again ... "

Am I dying?

Yes. We all are

:(

some of us slower than others

No, it’s not running rough or anything but when I first tuned it to the stage 2+ tune the car felt a little more snappier. But when I look at it that was when I still was running stock tires and wheels. Now I’m running Rays Gram Lights 17x9 38+ and Falken Azenis 245/240ZR17. But I did my last oil change less than 3k miles ago and it’s so clear it’s hard to see on the dipstick lol

I mean it was at idle, should I reconnect it to the OBD2 and drive for a bit then look to see where it is? I’ll definitely look into this as I wanna have the car for as long as possible.

It doesn't matter. Depending on tune it should default to an IAM of 1, or .7 if it is a V4 tune. Do you know what you flashed your car with and what your calid is? It sounds like an issue with the tune though the car runs fine, it is just not logging correctly. It's in the thread @Spuds linked. Read the responses by steve99.

I'm going to start with basic info, apologies if this is stuff you already know.

So, the OFT has software that allows it to interpret the 1s and 0s coming across the CAN bus. Not all BRZ/FRS/86 ECUs speak the same language across that bus, even though they use the same interface. ECUs in different regions and different model years have different CALIDs. The CALID determines, among other things, how messages are sent across the CAN bus. Example: If the CAN bus were a book, the CALID would determine whether it is written in English, French, or Spanish. The OFT is supposed to be able to read from any CALID for the twins, but it needs to know what language it it reading first.

This is important to know because there might be an error with one of the CALIDs in the OFT. Particularly if the OFT doesn't have the latest updates from openflash. It's essentially missing a word from it's vocabulary in one specific language. I think a lot of these were fixed over the first few years, but the OFT may need to be updated to get those fixes.

Step 1 is to find the CALID for your car. The OFT should be able to tell you that from the vehicle information(?) screen. My car is in pieces right now so I don't know the menu exactly.

Step 2 is to find out if there are any known issues with that CALID and confirm the OFT is using the right one. My guess is yes and yes, but weird stuff can happen.

Step 3, if step 2 checks out, connect the oft to a computer connected to the internet, then open the "openflash manager" software. You can get it from the openflash website last I checked. This should update your OFT software if you let it sit for a while.

Step 4, is to plug it back into the car and see if that fixed anything.

Once you are able to do that, let us know how it went. Good rule of thumb, advance multiplier should be 1 or 0.7 at first, or at least not 0. There may be further steps needed to get your OFT all set up. Once it is fully set up, we can help you interpret the readout and logs.

Also to take a log at Full WOT and some driving logs. Look for bad AFR's, Knock corrections alot, Falling IAM Value. Use this app to read the Log. All this can be done on the OFT

https://datazap.me/

Did you get the jab?

Those were going to be my follow on steps once OP has the updated software. First order of business is to make sure the software is reading right. Logs are useless if you aren't logging the right parameters.