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FA24D (new GR86) into FRS GEN 1
I’ve seen some older threads…people converting to talking about KSWAPS etc.
Keeping it strictly about the FA24D, what’s needed? New ECU? Sensors? 1st Gen Transmission will work? Looks like the exhaust mounting points are the same so I can keep my PTuning headers 💪 No one bring up Kswap bullshit. If I wanted a Honda I’d buy a Honda. I want more power in the first Gen and this is the answer (hopefully). Boost comes later but the goal is FA24D swap. What’s the requirements? 🙏 |
There is a thread right below yours for this https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147462
Also, the answer is that no one knows what is required for the motor yet. First gen transmission will work. |
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Saw on eBay the motor and trans were $7500. Seems like a rip off. Hopefully I can get my hands on one and figure it out. |
Won’t work. Get a K24 and do a kswap.
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If you want an fa24 get a gr86...
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Just wait for a few years
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From what I’ve researched doing the fa24 long block swap is very similar to converting from 13 to a 17 engine. The transmission and everything works just fine, but it’s the small changes that are the problem. For example the trigger wheel, camshaft position sensors, etc. they are slightly different to the point where it makes the swap very tedious and annoying. If you got the fully assembled long block with appropriate harness and ecu there’s a good chance it should be no problem, but nothing is concrete yet.
Tbh I was very interested in the fa24 swap until I realized that there are just too many unknowns to make it worth it at this point. Unless your racing in a class which having a fa24 is legal but a k24 or FI isn’t then honestly just stick to the fa20 for now. With time this swap will become more feasible. |
You're wasting you're own time and money for 20-30 more horsepower that still doesn't have the internals (rods) to support a full tilt turbo or supercharger upgrade. Meanwhile, I'm over here with an HKS supercharger feeling pretty good.
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I say it may be cheaper because to get the predicted reliability for a given horsepower, the FA20 might require internal upgrades, where the FA24 might be fine from the factory. For instance, the 350whp/275wtq seems to be about the limit for the FA20, so for many people, even if they don't want more power, they may try to stay significantly below that, or they may do a built engine, which isn't disable or cheap, respectively. The FA24 due to the extra displacement will make 350whp with less boost, and it is starting with significantly beefier Pistons and rods, so the reliability factor in theory should be much higher. If the swap was reasonable then I would have considered it over the K24. https://i.postimg.cc/s22Ksv5L/001.png https://i.postimg.cc/Dyvc7PxL/002.jpg |
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FA24 FB25 pistons
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I'm interested in fitting new sleeves to an FA20 to run the 94mm pistons |
Possible candidate
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I think this is an FB25D piston. It's the only picture I've been able to find.
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Swapping a Honda K24 into the 86 has been nothing but a disaster chasing problem after problem and personally witnessing about a dozen blow up in S2000's, NB Miatas and 86's since last year. Also the FA motors were never designed to withstand forced induction applications. These are free revving NA motors designed with light weight internals. |
There is a FA24 short block swap running in MN. Car is using FA20 heads and ECU. Made almost identical HP to a stock GR86 on the same dyno.
I believe the car was on track this weekend too. |
Still i m not understanding how doable is this swap, fa24 short block into restyling fa20 with fa20 heads?
Did someone here figure out what s really needed? |
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would be nice to have some details about how to make it work(:
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RSMotors, if you want to creep their FB
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My concerns would be valve clearance. Are the valves the same diameter and in the same position and angle on both motors? The piston crowns are different between the two motors. I could imagine the valves being larger and maybe further apart on the FA24.
Besides that, the larger bore sleeve might partially block the coolant jackets on the FA20 heads. |
pistons hit the heads, yea but i dont what they did to fix that
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I came across some comments by Ronnie the other day about it, he said that you just gotta get creative and that he used FA20 heads. Can't find them now that I'm looking though.
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The crank position sensor was asked about on their post but they were a big cagey and just said "they made it work". but it was done with a stock 2013 ECU so thats hopeful. We just have to figure out what they did.
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I believe RS has for sure 3 cars running with FA24 swaps, and another shop(ASM) did one in WI.
I believe one of the FA24 cars will be at Gridlife this weekend running in club TR |
Just remembered I posted this a while ago. Who’s got a guide? I want to pull the trigger on buying a GR86 engine. 😊
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Same here - the price on used FA24s seem to have cooled off some and I'm interested in swapping to my '14.
I found this guide on NASIOC. It's specific to the FA24DIT, but there is useful information there. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...qrl9R-vJA/edit I'm following this outfit in Japan. There are some more clues there. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...qrl9R-vJA/edit Mostly I am looking for information on the FA24 cam sensors, crank position sensor, injectors, and a few other sensors (temp, pressure, etc.) and interfacing them to the FA20 ECU. Quote:
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Just did a quick search, and there are some used FA24 complete motors out there for sale in the $6-7K USD range. While they still ain't cheap, they're getting to be in the range of E.G. buying an Edelbrock supercharger, though adapting the wiring harness, etc. to connect to the FA20 ECU will certainly run more labour costs than the supercharger install.
You can also apparently order a new, complete long block now for around $8,600 USD. I still think this will be the way I'll go eventually if I don't just call it a day after my headers and tune in a few months and spend those funds on track time instead. ;) |
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So explain this to me like I’m an idiot. You’re saying the FA24 long block is what’s needed? Short block I actually replaced recently on my 14 FRS as I had a leaky cylinder 3 causing stalling at red lights and major idle issues. Long block is untouched from the repair. |
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I just mentioned the availability of the long block because they weren't available when folks were first talking about this swap, and for comparison with the price of used complete motors. ;) EDIT: and for those who aren't clear, a long block is generally just an assembled block and heads and usually doesn't include any of the intake / exhaust manifolds or ancillary bits and pieces, sensors, etc. |
I talked to a shop this weekend who’s already done this swap. They’ll do a swap, complete with a new FA-24 long block, for around $7k. This assumes your car is in good working condition, as they use existing parts from your car. If it wasn’t so far away (the shop is in WI and I’m in VA) I’d probably already have my car there.
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Is this ASM? Sounds pretty reasonable to me. |
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"Current total price is about $7k for a full fa24 swap. That’s including a new OEM FA24 block. That price also is assuming your old engine is in running condition as we have to reuse many of the original parts." If I was a little closer I'd already dropped my car off. They're booking 4-5 weeks out and turn time is 1-2 weeks. |
Wow. Impressive. You'll probably need FA24 headers though, right? Or at least not the stock FA20 ones?
A good FI kit with install & tune will set you back nearly as much. More power, yes, but nowhere near the same reliability. |
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A header tune on the FA20 will almost get you to the FA24. I haven't driven one but I expect the GR86 to be a lot of new car hype. Let's see what happens when the dust settles. MY car is SlOw... lol |
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