Powertrain options for track only
 

I have a track only BRZ with a tired motor and trans on its last leg. I got plenty of time out of it, so it's time for a powertrain refresh.

All I really care about is reliability and then cost.
I'd rather pay more for more reliability, to a reasonable degree.
Increased power isn't much of a goal, if any.

So what does everyone recommend here? And where should I get it from?


What year engines will be compatible? I have an early 2014, and it has the 2013.

Best reliability would be to swap in a stock Honda K24 or a Ls motor.

That’s a lot more than I care to get into and this trans doesn’t need more power. I’d just buy a c5 race car at that point.

Look at Element Tuning in Fla.

What year transmissions can I use? Is it just the gearing that changed?

What’s your budget

I guess it depends. I figure I can get a new bottom end for around $2k. It’s the heads and trans that I haven’t much looked at lately.

If you are happy with it just throw another shortblock at it and call it a day. Maybe add an oil pan baffle for some extra protection.

I am going through this now. Want a K swap, can't justify the cost yet. I'm just going to do a leak down and comp test, tear it down and check the rod and main bearings. Replace what needs replaced and send it.

You can have the heads re done. I went with an IAG shortblock for good measure.

Mine is smoking a good bit and my mph/lap times are down about 4 seconds too. Pretty sure I'm on borrowed time at this point.

I can't imagine I'd really need aftermarket internals for stock power, but what did that run you?

It's really shocking how expensive a low mile long block is. I thought for sure I'd be able to grab a 30k mile crate for like $3k. More like double that for double the miles.

Anyone know what year engines and transmissions I can use?

Transmissions are effectively the same across all years

Long block can be used across all years, but you will need to swap a few things from your old motor depending on year. There are some threads around here if you search the motor year you're swapping and the base year.

I would personally not touch a motor that has been opened by anyone since it left the factory on these cars since they are already kind of hand grenades, but your mileage my vary. I went K24 and sold my 30k-ish mile motor as a long block for $3k.

I think prices for these motors are higher than expected because they effectively only came in BRZ/FRS/86, cutting the donor pool significantly.

Yeah, I been down that road. Got an engine from a "master" Toyota tech. It was a mess. Threw a rocker but don't think I can attribute that to his work but the FIPG job he did was awful, he must have used 2 full tubes of it on that thing. It wasn't going to be long of this world.

it was 3,200. They also machine the block for better oiling. Way better bearings than stock also. I wanted bulletproof. Lol I call it my Toyota boxter. Overengineered like a Toyota motor.

So as an update, I couldn't find a better option than just a straight up new crate bottom end. I guess that it's hard to argue with +100 hard track hrs for $5k- maybe even 200 come to think of it.
As far as transmissions go, there seems to be an issue with McCloud clutches not 100% disengaging and killing synchronizers. Going to switch out something else and try again.

I've found in my experience, that almost all clutch difficulties are install error, not the actual clutch.

Use a hardened steel clutch tool, or even a sawed off input shaft from any Subaru manual transmission, rather than a flimsy plastic tool that will flex.

Thanks!