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-   -   Lightest Stock Size Wheels (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148900)

Lelandjt 02-22-2022 03:28 AM

Lightest Stock Size Wheels
 
I'm looking for the lightest wheels with the exact same width and offset as the stock 17s. Feel free to list 18s too for anyone looking for those. This doesn't seem like a difficult find but searching through old posts some wheels are no longer available and others are 8" wide or slightly different offset. Coming up empty searching retailers too. Am I being silly wanting exactly 48mm offset?

I just want bronze wheels that are lighter than stock but don't change the tire shape or suspension geometry.

Jianlun 02-22-2022 03:43 AM

Rpf1 17x7.5 et48 silver 6.93kg 3797758048SP
Rpf1 17x8 et45 gold 7.1kg (tyre rack), 7.3kg (oem brochure) 3797808045GG
Tc105x titan 17x7.5 et45 6.8kg
OZ Alleggerita HLT 17x7.5 et48 7kg W0182320176
BBS RF 17X7 et48 6.4kg
BBS RF 17X7.5 et48 6.6kg
Ce28n 17x7.5 et50 6kg
Ce28sl 17x7.5 et48 6.8(unconfirmed)kg
Ssr gtf01 17x7.5 et48 7kg (potentially discontinued?) Sgd630
Advan tc4 17x7.5 et45 7.5kg sgd537

stock is 7.5 et48 so i exercised some +/- hahaha.


your best bet is OZ Alleggerita, many colours avail in tire rack.

Lelandjt 02-22-2022 04:02 AM

I thought stock is 7" wide. It seems like offsets between 43-50mm are okay.

dragoontwo 02-22-2022 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lelandjt (Post 3506370)
I thought stock is 7" wide. It seems like offsets between 43-50mm are okay.

The 2nd gen cars are 7.5" stock. That being said, the Alleggerita in 17x8 are under 16 lbs.

timurrrr 02-22-2022 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lelandjt (Post 3506367)
I'm looking for the lightest wheels with the exact same width and offset as the stock 17s. [...] others are 7.5" wide or slightly different offset. [...] Am I being silly wanting exactly 48mm offset?

I just want bronze wheels that are lighter than stock but don't change the tire shape or suspension geometry.

Yes, changing the offset to a lower value won't hurt if you're only changing it slightly (et45? maybe even et40?). If anything, it will improve how the wheels fill the wheel arches.

As others have already pointed out, gen.2 stock wheels are 7.5" in width.
Won't hurt to consider 17x8 either. It will also be better for 225/45R17 tires when inevitably you change your tires from stock.

Also note that stock Primacy HP look narrower than many other tires in the same dimension.
225/45R17 SX2's will look less stretched on 17x8 than stock tires are on stock wheels.

AndyRC 02-23-2022 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lelandjt (Post 3506367)
I'm looking for the lightest wheels with the exact same width and offset as the stock 17s. Feel free to list 18s too for anyone looking for those. This doesn't seem like a difficult find but searching through old posts some wheels are no longer available and others are 7.5" wide or slightly different offset. Coming up empty searching retailers too. Am I being silly wanting exactly 48mm offset?

I just want bronze wheels that are lighter than stock but don't change the tire shape or suspension geometry.


How about these

https://www.toyota.com/content/dam/t..._Ebrochure.pdf

Slightly wider fitment by 5mm but Toyota are recommending it and only 17lbs , I’ve not seen a part number yet but look the same as the TRD ones sold for the GT86

Lelandjt 02-23-2022 04:17 AM

Thanks for the suggestions guys. It's weird that all my searches came up with 7.0" width for the 2nd Gen.

daiheadjai 02-23-2022 06:28 PM

For the price and the weight, it's pretty hard to beat RPF1s...

timurrrr 02-23-2022 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daiheadjai (Post 3506688)
For the price and the weight, it's pretty hard to beat RPF1s...

Konig Hypergram?
It's cheaper right now, and might be stronger.
Haven't compared the weight though.

Varelco 02-24-2022 11:56 AM

You limit your options trying to keep the same offset. One of the lightest wheels available...

17x8 ET42 TWS T66-F 13.93 lb

These are labelled specifically for 86/BRZ fitment

https://www.tws-forged.com/tws_t66-f.html

Lelandjt 02-24-2022 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Varelco (Post 3506824)
You limit your options trying to keep the same offset. One of the lightest wheels available...

17x8 ET42 TWS T66-F 13.93 lb

These are labelled specifically for 86/BRZ fitment

https://www.tws-forged.com/tws_t66-f.html

Yeah, I realize now it's okay to go down to 41ish offset, but I wouldn't go higher than 48. That's a very light suggestion!

timurrrr 02-24-2022 04:00 PM

May I ask why you need lightest wheels possible?

Are you ok to potentially sacrifice the strength of the wheel just trying to chase down the mythical "lightest wheel = fastest acceleration"?
Are you really going to feel the difference of a few % worth the risk of bending the wheel on every pothole?

lostinmysenses 02-24-2022 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlkTrax (Post 3506389)
https://enkei.com/shop/wheels/racing/rpf1/

Part# 3797758048 Finish - SP Size 17x7.5, ET+48 Bolt- 5x100 Bore -73 Weight (lbs)- 15.25

^^^ Fits your request for the Exact same Dimensions of the OEM wheel. Paint or Powder coat to color?

This is the Lightest Wheel for SCCA Solo Street Class I've been able to find ; that is widely available, and not a one off, or overpriced (less than $300) unobtanium.

I sent an email to APEX To see if they would make a Specific Auto-X Wheel, 17x7.5 +41 that's Hub-centric and hopefully lighter than the RPF1, They were looking into it, was the response.

OEM Wheel(s) 17x7.5, 18x7.5 +48
Ideal Street Class wheel - 17x7.5 +41 with 225/45-17 Tire

2022 Street Class Rules:
Any type wheel may be used provided it complies with the following:

A. It is the same width as standard and as installed it does not have an offset more than ±7.00 mm (±0.275”) from a standard wheel for the car.
The resultant change in track dimensions is allowed.

B. Wheel (rim) diameter may be increased or decreased 1” from the standard part. This change may be applied to the front, rear, or both axles.

What are the advantages of running a +41 offset vs +48? Does it have any effect on handling characteristics?

timurrrr 02-24-2022 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lostinmysenses (Post 3506924)
What are the advantages of running a +41 offset vs +48? Does it have any effect on handling characteristics?

Slightly wider track => slightly less lateral weight transfer in corner => slightly more grip.
Also slightly compromised suspension geometry => slight negative impact on steering feedback.
Also arguably better esthetics.

daiheadjai 02-24-2022 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3506691)
Konig Hypergram?
It's cheaper right now, and might be stronger.
Haven't compared the weight though.

Damn - the Enkeis were still cheaper when I looked at the Hypergrams late last year... I'd have gone Hypergrams otherwise.
Seems the Enkeis are about 2lb lighter for 17x9 (dependent on offset).

And the change in steering feel by going for a more aggressive offset is a great point: I had a set of PF-01s 17x8 +35, and the first thing I noticed was how the new wheels worsened steering feel/responsiveness.

lostinmysenses 02-24-2022 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3506928)
Slightly wider track => slightly less lateral weight transfer in corner => slightly more grip.
Also slightly compromised suspension geometry => slight negative impact on steering feedback.
Also arguably better esthetics.

If you don't mind, could you explain the slight negative impact on steering feedback? Would that mean a lighter steering feel with less input feedback?

Also, would there be a benefit to equalizing track width front to rear? For example, running something like +43 in front and +48 at the rear (or +41 and +46 to take advantage of the lower offset limit)?

timurrrr 02-24-2022 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lostinmysenses (Post 3506943)
If you don't mind, could you explain the slight negative impact on steering feedback? Would that mean a lighter steering feel with less input feedback?

Wider track pushes the wheel outward, adding leverage to all forces acting on the outside edge of the tire, and reducing leverage (or even changing from positive to negative!) to forces action on the inside edge of the tire. Google what "scrub radius" is, there will be pictures to help visualize it.

As an example, there is this nasty area in the "left turn pocket" at one of the intersections near my home where I frequently need to stop on a red light. With stock wheels and tires it's just annoying, but with wider tires on lower offset wheels (et37 in my case) the steering wheel tries to turn left because of those bumps, so I have to hold it while stopping the car.

On the flip side, I know people who have successfully tracked cars with et30 effective offsets and set some very decent lap times :P

Quote:

Originally Posted by lostinmysenses (Post 3506943)
Also, would there be a benefit to equalizing track width front to rear? For example, running something like +43 in front and +48 at the rear (or +41 and +46 to take advantage of the lower offset limit)?

Depends on the goals. Not a bad idea to increase the front and rear track equally vs stock, or you can fine tune the balance of the car by using different wheels or spacers.
That being said, perhaps a better strategy would be to maximize grip by maximizing the track width on both ends individually (depending on the regulations, geometry of the car and suspension, tire size, scrub radius considerations, etc.) and then fine-tune the balance with anti-roll bars.

Lelandjt 02-24-2022 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3506900)
May I ask why you need lightest wheels possible?

Are you ok to potentially sacrifice the strength of the wheel just trying to chase down the mythical "lightest wheel = fastest acceleration"?
Are you really going to feel the difference of a few % worth the risk of bending the wheel on every pothole?

I don't. There are other considerations but I value lightness and want to be looking at that end of the spectrum. I probably will go with the GR wheels even though they're 17lbs because they can be on the car when I pick it up. Otherwise I have to buy tires and TPMS as well and sell the stock wheels/tires/TPMS.

Racecomp Engineering 02-25-2022 10:31 AM

17 lbs is plenty good.

If I were dailying the lightest wheels possible where I live, I'd be replacing them frequently because roads are that bad.

If I were tracking more often, I'd also have to think about replacing them more frequently. And wheel strength is important on track too (not just weight).

As it is, I use what are essentially tarmac rally wheels which are not the lightest but very strong.

RPF1s are a good all-around choice on the lighter side and should hold up well in a 17 inch size.

- Andrew

Lelandjt 02-25-2022 01:58 PM

Speaking of how offset affects suspension and steering geometry: It's weird that Toyota settled on 48mm for the stock wheels but 43mm for the GR accessory wheels. I get the benefit of wider track. How it lines up with the fender and how it works with the suspension and steering is an unknown but you'd think one would be better than the other in those categories and that's the size Toyota would use.

lostinmysenses 02-25-2022 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3506962)
Wider track pushes the wheel outward, adding leverage to all forces acting on the outside edge of the tire, and reducing leverage (or even changing from positive to negative!) to forces action on the inside edge of the tire. Google what "scrub radius" is, there will be pictures to help visualize it.

As an example, there is this nasty area in the "left turn pocket" at one of the intersections near my home where I frequently need to stop on a red light. With stock wheels and tires it's just annoying, but with wider tires on lower offset wheels (et37 in my case) the steering wheel tries to turn left because of those bumps, so I have to hold it while stopping the car.

On the flip side, I know people who have successfully tracked cars with et30 effective offsets and set some very decent lap times :P



Depends on the goals. Not a bad idea to increase the front and rear track equally vs stock, or you can fine tune the balance of the car by using different wheels or spacers.
That being said, perhaps a better strategy would be to maximize grip by maximizing the track width on both ends individually (depending on the regulations, geometry of the car and suspension, tire size, scrub radius considerations, etc.) and then fine-tune the balance with anti-roll bars.

Thanks! That all makes a lot more sense now.

So the drawbacks from a slight change in scrub radius are offset by the benefits of running a wider track (more grip), correct?

That means it would be more beneficial to run the lowest allowed offset (+41) at the front and rear and fine tuning with sway bars?

Just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly.

timurrrr 02-25-2022 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lostinmysenses (Post 3507154)
So the drawbacks from a slight change in scrub radius are offset by the benefits of running a wider track (more grip), correct?

The benefits of running a wider track are objective/measurable, but also small.
The downsides or change in steering feel are subjective.

What's best is thus subjective.

Most people won't actually notice the increased levels of grip, but neither will they notice the change in steering feel from widening the track by just a few mm. They might start noticing at +10mm per side or so.

daiheadjai 02-25-2022 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3507180)
The benefits of running a wider track are objective/measurable, but also small.
The downsides or change in steering feel are subjective.

What's best is thus subjective.

Most people won't actually notice the increased levels of grip, but neither will they notice the change in steering feel from widening the track by just a few mm. They might start noticing at +10mm per side or so.

This is very true - I went from the stock +48 ET to +35 ET, and the difference was very noticeable from the moment I pulled out of my parking spot - the car felt comparatively numb. I actually regretted it almost immediately (despite the better looks and grip).
A more conservative shift (like going to +43ET) would probably give you the grip benefits of wider tires, while also maintaining more steering feel.

aycz86 02-25-2022 09:14 PM

Looks like 17x8 +43/+45 is the safe bet for stock suspension then? I was confused on the setup but I just want a little better figment at stock suspension for a while. Going to go 17x8 with either +45 or +43 in a wheel I like wrapped in 225/45r17. Am I missing something here?

jflogerzi 02-26-2022 12:03 AM

Another vote for hypergrams. They have been my track wheels. All has been good and they look better than RPF1s

Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

dalte2 02-17-2023 01:42 PM

ET of the 17" GR86 wheels
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jianlun (Post 3506369)
Rpf1 17x7.5 et48 silver 6.93kg 3797758048SP
Rpf1 17x8 et45 gold 7.1kg (tyre rack), 7.3kg (oem brochure) 3797808045GG
Tc105x titan 17x7.5 et45 6.8kg
OZ Alleggerita HLT 17x7.5 et48 7kg W0182320176
BBS RF 17X7 et48 6.4kg
BBS RF 17X7.5 et48 6.6kg
Ce28n 17x7.5 et50 6kg
Ce28sl 17x7.5 et48 6.8(unconfirmed)kg
Ssr gtf01 17x7.5 et48 7kg (potentially discontinued?) Sgd630
Advan tc4 17x7.5 et45 7.5kg sgd537

stock is 7.5 et48 so i exercised some +/- hahaha.


your best bet is OZ Alleggerita, many colours avail in tire rack.

I've read somewhere that the 17 OEM wheel is a 45ET on the GR86 and not 48ET which is what the BRZ's have (and 1st gen 86). I suspect what I read may be wrong, but am trying to confirm. Are you 100% sure the 2nd gen GR86 is an ET48 wheel? I autocross and the difference between ET48 and ET45 will dictate if I get a 7mm or 10mm spacer as I intend to get ET48 wheels. In autocross, I can 7mm wider than OEM. So, if OEM is ET45, and my new wheels are ET48, I can go with 10mm spacers. If OEM is ET48, with my new wheels at ET48, I will get the 7mm spacers.

Thank you. Car is due to arrive at dealer next week..... so excited.

PBR 02-24-2023 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3506900)
May I ask why you need lightest wheels possible?

Are you ok to potentially sacrifice the strength of the wheel just trying to chase down the mythical "lightest wheel = fastest acceleration"?
Are you really going to feel the difference of a few % worth the risk of bending the wheel on every pothole?

I have the TWS T66-F. It's a proprietary aluminum alloy. Forged & stronger than most other brand's alloys. So you can have your cake & eat it too with this wheel. I'd agree with you for flow formed, etc.

timurrrr 02-24-2023 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PBR (Post 3570002)
I have the TWS T66-F. It's a proprietary aluminum alloy. Forged & stronger than most other brand's alloys. So you can have your cake & eat it too with this wheel.

Sure, strong light wheels do exist (and yes TWS are niiice), but they also cost more than double the price of similar size Enkeis or Konigs.
And you'll need to pay double again if you eventually need replace one or a few due to some unexpected track/highway nastyness.

And will you actually see enough of a performance benefit to justify such a difference in price?

Lelandjt 02-24-2023 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3570016)
Sure, strong light wheels do exist (and yes TWS are niiice), but they also cost more than double the price of similar size Enkeis or Konigs.
And you'll need to pay double again if you eventually need replace one or a few due to some unexpected track/highway nastyness.

And will you actually see enough of a performance benefit to justify such a difference in price?

It's a matter of perspective. For me lighter always = better. If carbon wheels were made in our size I'd buy them. I'd certainly never be caught with alloy wheels on my bikes!

PBR 02-24-2023 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3570016)
Sure, strong light wheels do exist (and yes TWS are niiice), but they also cost more than double the price of similar size Enkeis or Konigs.
And you'll need to pay double again if you eventually need replace one or a few due to some unexpected track/highway nastyness.

And will you actually see enough of a performance benefit to justify such a difference in price?



I'm going for feel. What these cars are all about imo. And i can afford it if anyone questions my thought process. Worth it to me. Im not an exterior decorator. I'd rather add lightness over anything else. Former shifter kart racer so some of us can tell and enjoy the minor differences even if others can't. 3/4 have curb rash. Bought to use, not post.��

dragoontwo 02-24-2023 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lelandjt (Post 3570020)
It's a matter of perspective. For me lighter always = better. If carbon wheels were made in our size I'd buy them. I'd certainly never be caught with alloy wheels on my bikes!

Carbon ≠ always lighter.

Ernest72 02-24-2023 09:07 PM

Crappy roads where I live does not always work out for lighter wheels.

Yoniyama 02-26-2023 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timurrrr (Post 3506900)
May I ask why you need lightest wheels possible?

Are you ok to potentially sacrifice the strength of the wheel just trying to chase down the mythical "lightest wheel = fastest acceleration"?
Are you really going to feel the difference of a few % worth the risk of bending the wheel on every pothole?

A small (+/- 3lb) difference in wheel weight is very hard to discern. I installed on my 2018 RRZ, Volks Racing TE37 that weighs about 11.5lb each, and the difference is significant. Also, lighter wheel is not always weaker.

I used Enkei RF1 before, but it bent after going through a pothole at moderate speed (less than 20mph). No problem with the TE37 so far.

I also installed 2-piece front brake rotors, saving another 4.9lb per corner, but that's another story.

Go for the TWS T66-F if you can afford them (and you will be my idol)!

PBR 02-26-2023 08:51 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoniyama (Post 3570203)
A small (+/- 3lb) difference in wheel weight is very hard to discern. I installed on my 2018 RRZ, Volks Racing TE37 that weighs about 11.5lb each, and the difference is significant. Also, lighter wheel is not always weaker.

I used Enkei RF1 before, but it bent after going through a pothole at moderate speed (less than 20mph). No problem with the TE37 so far.

I also installed 2-piece front brake rotors, saving another 4.9lb per corner, but that's another story.

Go for the TWS T66-F if you can afford them (and you will be my idol)!


RPF1s will bend. Personal experience.tire weight is a big deal too.

_____That_-_GUY_____ 03-01-2023 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PBR (Post 3570209)
RPF1s will bend. Personal experience.tire weight is a big deal too.

That's pretty gnarly. What'd you hit? A lesser wheel probably would have broke instead of bending.

PBR 03-01-2023 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _____That_-_GUY_____ (Post 3570654)
That's pretty gnarly. What'd you hit? A lesser wheel probably would have broke instead of bending.

Houston roads and something hard. Bending is better than breaking but RPF1s are definitely a bit soft.


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