POP while installing crank bolt, now CEL and TCS!
 

So I installed a fluidampr crank pulley today.




When removing the pulley didn't just come off, the crank shaft pulley spacer came with it.



having never pulled the crank pulley before I didn't know if this was normal or not, so I popped the crank pulley off the spacer and slid the spacer back in after wiping it down to make sure it was clean.


I installed the fluidampr pulley and started tightening the crank pulley bolt with a torque wrench. I started at 30#, then 50# then when on the way to 75# there was a POP and the bolt got real easy to turn.. I backed the bolt out and checked to make sure I didn't break it, it was fine.


I put the bolt back in and torqued it down but stopped at 50#. praying something just slipped and that I didn't actually break anything.




So I put everything back together and went for a drive.. car has a noticeable rattling sound now, like there is a loose bit bouncing around somewhere and I got the CEL and TCS lights on "limp mode" after about 10 min of driving... feels like the timing might be off.







what did I do? is there a piece like a key or something in there that is now rattling around? did I break something in there off?

Hmmmmmm at first I thought you stripped your crank but it kinda sounds like you might have jumped the timing chain. Is your belt still riding nice on the pulley? Did you ever finish torqueing it? Is the spacer loose?

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Pray to the subie gods you aligned the small key to the adapterhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8df9d630a0.jpg


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RUH ROH!


Ill take it back apart and check it out tomorrow. but yea it feels out of time, and that would explain the limp mode.

Zoinks yo

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Ouch

Weren't nutten wrong with your OEM crank pulley - :iono:

looks like there's about to be...

I'm having hell getting the spacer back out, is there a tool or a way to get that bugger out without destroying it? I can get out about 1/2 inch out but thats it.


Regarding destroying it though, where do you order a new one? I will probably go ahead and order a new spacer and the key as well. having trouble finding a place that sells them though..

Probably not. Mines fine. I still would like to put a Fluidamper on it. Just cuz - cool. I do have a certain weakness, though, for fixin things what ain't broke (until I fixed em). :bonk:

It it is damaged, you have bigger issues then just the spacer. The spacer drives the oil pump, that is why it has two flats on it, so you possibly had it misaligned with that. Or as mentioned above, you may have had it misaligned with the key. I would shine a flashlight down when you get the spacer off and make sure you didn't damage the timing chain sprocket and key.

Did you check to see what the CEL's were?

I'm gonna guess that damaging the oil pump is likely

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Well i found and ordered a replacement spacer and O ring.

Still can't get the old one out, it comes out about 1/2 inch and sticks, but now that a new one is on the way I'll try getting more.. assertive with it.

Okay first, DO NOT TURN ON YOUR CAR ANYMORE until you get it checked out/fixed. If you need to move it, roll it or tow it.

I had a similar issue that ended in catastrophic failure. You may have gotten lucky but cant be sure until you look into the crank pulley hole. That keyway holds the engine in time, hearing rattling could be the timing chaining out of time.

When you heard the pop noise was it mechanical at all? Like metal on metal?
Last pic is what you should see if the keyway is still in its spot.

Edit: I forgot to mention just like you OP, i had a hell of a time taking out the crank spacer, it was stuck and this was when my motor was sitting on an engine stand. I kept trying to pull on by wiggling it side to side.

Thanks for all the advice, i still haven't got the space out yet. Too busy a work today.

Misaligned key and keyway. Its a woodriff key so it can rock. Probably busted the timing chain gear on the crank. Something similar happened to me

Alright finally got a chance to mess with it today, the new spacer and o ring came in and I was able to get the old spacer out, it actually came out pretty easy.


I got in there with an endoscope and it looks like everything is still intact, no damage or anything.

The one thing I didn't find was the old key, hopefully its chilling down in the oil pan or somewhere safe.


Like a said the car RAN after I did the screw up so there is nothing catastrophically broken, it just felt sluggish/out of time.




So should I just get a new key, install everything and give it a go? any other things I should check etc etc?


Again I appreciate all the feedback and help :)

I got the fluidampr to HOPEFULLY mitigate some of the vibration I'm getting after installing a lighter weight flywheel

Ok so im trying to order the key but it doesent seem to exist...


https://parts.austinsubaru.com/a/Sub...10-013-02.html




where can I find one? what is its specific name? It doesen't even show up on the diagram or parts list.


EDIT:


Found it after calling a round a lot, kudos to austin subaru..


the part number for the key is 804505060.

Uhhhh. That looks kinda FUBAR.

If the key is missing, then it is out of time.

So what do I need to do other than order a new key? it will just slide in correct?

and is THIS the correct key?

That is an EJ engine. You can tell because it has a pulley for a cog belt. I do not know if it is the same key as our engine which is an FA.

If they key came out, I would want to double check the engine is in time before just putting one in. The keyway looks a bit mashed up to me. If it was running before and will run now then I wonder if you just sheared the top portion of the key off and it is still jammed in there. It is too hard to tell for the pictures. Either way, I would personally want to pull the timing cover and check it.

If I get a minute I will pull the crank pulley off my engine sitting on the stand and take some pictures to compare, but that timing gear looks messed up to me.

Yea the car ran but felt out of time.

I will try to grab some pictures to compare today. The engine is just sitting down in the warehouse and is accessible so I should be able to pop it off and take a peak.

I agree with @NoHaveMSG. At the very least, the timing cover has to come off to examine the extent of the damage. You might need to run compression test to make sure that you didn't bend any valves. I hope you get lucky, find the key and put it all back together.

Weren't nutten wrong wif the OEM flywheel.

:iono:

(jest ah messen wich ya, I hope you get your car up and running - :thumbsup:)

Alrighty update time!


I got the timing cover off today and..


2 teeth broken off of the front timing chain sprocket.. so now I guess Ill order that.




EDIT: so what is the best way to get the old sprocket off? will it just slide off once the tension is off the timing chains?

It should slide off if the chains are removed. If it doesn't there may be some damage to the snout of the crank.

If it doesn't come off I would say a clamshell would be the best bet. I don't think a jaw'd puller will work well. Just don't bite the crank.

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearin...tor-63662.html

Gonna need to do a compression test after all this for sure bro

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Have you checked the timing yet to see if it's out and how far?

He broke teeth so he's gotta be off at least 1tooth

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Well the new parts are ordered, I'll check the timing before i put everything back together obviously.

op might get lucky. In my (bank 1) broken timing chain saga, I had 0 compression on #3 and 120 on #1 but no bent valves. Go figure.


Trouble is here is that he has get it all back together to do a compression test.

Indeed. Then take it all back apart to fix it

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I guess he could replace the sprocket, time the cams, and do a leakdown on each cyl spinning the crank between. It's not that far beyond where he is and certainly not a complete button-up - compression test - teardown cycle.

I don't think it jumped timing, missing two teeth doesn't allow the chain to really move, it's still engaging multiple teeth at any given point in the rotation.

You'll have to check the timing before removing anything to be sure. Please do so and report back.

But that's how the teeth broke when the chain jumped

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Teeth broke because i jammed the wodruff key into them like a total ding dong.