K-Swap Owners Thread
 

Introduction

Hello Everyone,

I think we will have enough members on here buying the KPower swap kit that we should have an owners thread for anyone doing a K-swap. We can use this space to post links to our build pages, whether that is in the Engine Swaps section or in the Member's Car Journals section, or off forum on FB, Instagram, etc. We can use this space to post pictures of our completed swaps, to post our track times, dyno charts, etc. And finally, I think this thread would be a great place to discuss specific K24 NA or FI modifications. What cams are best for high power/track or for the street? What compression pistons should I go with for a higher compression NA build? Stuff like that. We can pull the knowledge from other forums here, as it pertains to developing the K24 for more power or for better performance.

Some guidelines: what I hope will not be in this thread are entire builds. Let's not clutter up this thread will long timeline builds over multiple posts and pages. Create another thread in the Engine Swaps section or Member's Car Journals section, and link it here, and I'll add it next to your name. Also, I hope we can keep the KPower Industries K24 Swap thread or Pure Automotive's thread going with swap-specific questions. If KPower introduces a turbo kit for their swap, or if they release a BMW transmission swap package, then announce and discuss those things there. Keep as much of that content in that thread, so it remains a compiled and comprehensive resource. Again, let's try to keep this thread be a thread for completed swap pictures such as engine bay shots and shots on the track of the cars in action, and for videos of the engines running, videos of the cars on the track and videos showing different exhaust notes, to give a few examples. Let it be a place to discuss development of the K-series engines.

Introduce yourself here or PM me with what K-engine you swapped, if you used a swap kit or not, what engine management you used, etc, a link to your build if you have one, and I will add you to the list.

Thank you for keeping the conversations respectful,

Justin Irace

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Threads

KPower's Swap Thread - https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143987
Pure Auto's Swap Thread - https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131767

Stores

https://kpower.industries/collections/kpower-86-swap
https://www.tf-works.com/k-swap-kit/
https://www.pureautomotiveperformanc...shop/#k_series
https://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com
https://4pistonracing.com
https://www.kseriesparts.com
https://www.hondapartsonline.net

Forums

https://www.k20a.org
https://honda-tech.com/forums/k-series-153/
https://www.clubrsx.com/forums/k-series-swaps.109/

Manuals

http://redliners.ru/manuals/Acura%20TSX.zip

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KPower Industries Swaps

@Irace86.2.0 (K24 Turbo Build)
@ML (K24 SC Build)
@funkjaw (...K24)
@captain awesome (...K24)
@User_86 (...K24)
@redlined600 (...K24)
@Ebush (K24 NA Build, IG:ebush86)
@visbits (K24 Turbo)
@hedtrip (K24 NA Build; IG:trip_skywalker)
@RedReplicant (K24 Build)
@zuldajin (K24 4Piston NA)
@Kelse92 (K24 Build)
@suvig93 (K24...)
@traffic335 (K24 Turbo Build)
@moosefro (K24...)
@Submarinesonce (K24 Turbo Build)

Custom Swaps

@solidsnake11 (K20/K24 Turbo Build--Stock ECU/ECUTEK)
@DIY (K24 Turbo Build)

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Compatible Parts List

...Content to come...

KPower Industries K24 Swap

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/11...g?v=1635878007
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/11...g?v=1630359901

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TF-Works Swap

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-4337...81426944-o.jpg
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-4337...093862.jpg?c=2
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-4337...294532.jpg?c=2

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Pure Automotive Swap

https://live.staticflickr.com/1761/4...0bd42490_k.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4884/...d35fc851_k.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7906/...fdd76e75_b.jpg

As most of you know, I am doing a KPower Industries K24 swap using a K24A (JDM TSX) RBB engine with a custom turbo kit on the Haltech Elite 1500 that comes with the swap package. I'll post a picture of the engine bay and dyno when everything is finished. My Stage 1 goal is 350-400whp. I will either do a gen2 transmission swap for a refresh and stay modest with a mild bump, or I will do a CD009 or BMW transmission swap and move to Stage 2 power of 450whp+, but the long term plan is Stage 3, which is going full stupid with a built motor (piston, rods, ARP headstuds, port and polish, cams, springs, etc) after the CD009 or BMW transmission swap and a larger turbo for 700whp+.

Worth mentioning: I still have a second goal of doing an ultimate NA build on a Miata or Lotus or something super light that is a sports coupe. A RF Miata with a carbon fiber fixed top and with the convertible motors removed is the most likely candidate. The ultimate engine choice would be some small displacement V8 like a Synergy V8, but realistically, I high revving K24 from 4Piston is the most likely choice. I'm sure KPower will eventually do a kit for the ND. Someday...


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/atta...1&d=1628630427
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/atta...1&d=1643425577

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145419

I have a 2017 86 and am using the Kpower kit and will be doing the basic k24a2 for now. Eventually I will do some cams and possibly a 4 Piston head. I don’t have a build thread on the forum but I do have an Instagram that I’ll add a picture to occasionally. My Instagram is ebush86

Nice build. I like the relocation of the fuse box. Motor looks good. :cheers:

Thanks, I wanted to delete the ABS and figured relocating the fuse box would be the best way to keep it fairly symmetrical looking up front. I was able to relocate the fuse box without having to do much wiring work, I think I only had to extend about a dozen wires.

I'm already tagged in here but thought I'd post a recent photo.

Built to WTAC rules for Pro-am time attack class
K24A3 engine
AT Power dry sump
BMW ZF320 5-speed
BW EFR9174 twin scroll turbo IWG with electronic actuator low mounted
100% self built in my garage

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...09088f5f_c.jpg

So bad ass. :respekt::bow:

JDM K24A
2013 FRS
ECUMaster EMU Black with custom harness semi-utilizing KPower PNP Bridge.

Lots of stuff from KPower, mostly mount stuff!
Boostlab BL54X BB turbo
DW300C pump setup as a return system.

How does it drive and handle with the tall engine and without the chassis braces?

I don’t have a build thread on here, but figured I’d chime in and say that I received my Kpower kit today. I’ve got the engine ready to drop into the car, but not without some little issues along the way. I had to modify the trans adapter to fit my k20 starter (ordered from rock auto). I also had to shave down two spots on the block to get the passenger engine mount to fit perfectly. The intake manifold had some aluminum shavings in it, like a decent size pile of them. And the oil pan baffle bolts were not completely tight. I took some pictures and pointed out the modified areas and posted those on my Instagram @Ebush86

Saw your pic of the starter on your instagram. You have a k24 starter so looks like Rockauto sent you the wrong one.


I like how you mounted the Haltech goodies. Going to do the same for mine I think while I wait for the flywheel to show up.

Yeah, I have the K24 starter too. I figured I could grind down the adapter plate and transmission or just buy a new starter and hope to get a discount with a core trade.

Kpower says the K24 starter has a wide snout that creates interference with the transmission. Sounds like they may be implying that this could make the transmission not sit flush with the adapter plate and twist off the clutch or something, so to avoid having people grind the transmission bellhousing and avoid the temptation to force the K24 starter in position, they require the K20 slim snout starter and created a smaller opening on the adapter, so only the K20 starter would fit.

I would mount the adapter to the transmission without attaching it to the engine and mount the K24 starter to the adapter and look inside the transmission or feel for contact/interference.

I also like the mounting point you made for the Haltech. I’ll probably do that with some rivnuts and maybe an aluminum plate if I need reinforcement.

The K24 starter (2004 TSX) is 1.6KW and the RSX is 1.1/1.2KW. The K24 starter has an internal solenoid which is ideal and compact... I modified my adapter to fit the K24 starter and I took the grinder to the transmission to clearance the inner edge of the casting to clear the starter snout... the K20 starter IMO is junk.

Just wanted to clarify that the starter on my engine has an external solenoid. 6 months ago I asked David which starter I should order, he told me to order a k24 starter. So that’s what I did. That “k24” starter had an internal solenoid. The k24 starter with internal solenoid fit better than the recent starter I ordered that is supposedly k20 and has an external solenoid. After my modifications I never tried the k24 starter but I’m sure it will fit.

I did go ahead and clearance the trans just incase but I don’t think I needed to.

I grabbed a K24 starter because that is what I was told that they would be using, but I'm guessing grinding down the bellhousing was less desirable than just buying a K20 starter for them, so it is that much more plug and play.

I do see that your starter is external and looks like the K20 starter in their photo. I think I will be just using the K24 starter and making modifications. I'm not too worried about grinding down the inside of the bellhousing.

I just love how they have you remove spot welds and hammer the body but won't have you grind/file down the inside of the trans to clear the starter your probably already own.

Anyone else have the awesome issue where you’ll never be able to drain the oil because the drain bolt it basically touching the subframe? I posted a video on my Instagram.

What part of Cincinnati are you in @visbits? I’m in Hamilton, maybe once my cars done we can meet up or something, would be cool to check out the turbo setup
On yours.

I feel like of these questions and comments would be better served in the Kpower kit thread.

Did you email them, and did they get back to you? I had planned on driving a few miles down the street to Fujimoto’s distribution warehouse to see if I could pick up a valve for this build. I had one on my FA20, and I won’t be going back. I will probably hammer the subframe and do a valve if it will clear. Weird that they didn’t design that better. Even in their writeup it is clearly blocked by the subframe.

That's a pretty major oversight. I may look into a valve as well some hammering or notching as well.

That is terrible and totally unacceptable for a $800 oil pan.

I kinda forgot that this thread was just a general kswap owner thread and that the other is specifically for Kpower. Didn’t email them but David commented on my Instagram post and told me to email him. Not like he can do anything about it at this point. Oil pans on the engine, and the engines in the car. It’s not coming out unless I need to replace the clutch or if the engine blows. I’ll just get one of those oil extractor things To suck the oil out.

I don’t think a valve would work down there as there just isn’t any room between the current bolt and subframe. Best bet would be to install a new drain bolt. And maybe even a dipstick right there on the oil pan since our normal dipstick is pretty useless. Took me 3 minutes to install the dipstick. Just hits the baffling inside the pan.

Hammer a crucial part of your car?
Why not relocate it, especially if you have a tig?
Buy a bung, drill a hole, install bung, hold it in place with a smaller bolt and two washers,
spot weld it two or three places, remove bolt and run a bead around it or you can fuse it. Bolt and washers are not necessary but helps transfer heat if your a amateur tig welder.

They may have built the pan with a tube crossmember in the proto car.

http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDyNrNw26y0

I already did hammer the subframe; we have to in the directions. Now, I'll just do it some more. The subframe already has bends and curves and holes. What is the difference between one more? It would actually be easier for me to cut, sand and MIG weld a recession in the subframe than for me to TIG weld the oil pan, but I don't really think it is necessary; I'll have to see. I'm not sure, but the current spot for the oil pan could be the low spot.

I kinda half-heartedly put up a post where I will keep track of mine. Waiting on the KPower kit to show up then I'll add more.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149422

For reference for this thread, these are the final numbers. Depending on what the new GR86 transmission proves to hold, I may do that or a CD009 or BMW transmission, and I will likely do cams, rods n pistons and at some point go back to the dyno to turn up the boost.

You literally addressed every concern I had about the platform..
Weight
Engine
Engine placement
(going to) double A arm
114.3

Awesome build!