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Engine oil extraction on BRZ
Hello all,
Couldnt find much info on the specific problem i'm facing, really appreciate any valuable inputs. I have done 2x Engine oil change myself using the extraction method. (i do not have equipment/space for the drain plug method) I am using a Hand Pump with 1/4" (OD) tubing thru the Dipstick opening. Both times, i face difficulties sucking out all (or most) of the oil. I may suck out the first 1L easily, then have to twist & turn the tubing, and also pull out & re-insert the tubing for another 1L and so on, it can go as deep as 1.2m from the Dipstick opening tip. (i tied a cable tie at the 1.5m mark of the 2m tubing) I tried reading other drivers experience, Looks like few people actually face this issue (or they didnt share it). I'm using quality PU tubing (use in Semiconductor pneumatic line), Have Oil fill cap removed prior extracting. My first time, i warm up the oil temp till its 50deg Celsius, while the 2nd time, i didnt warm-up the engine, but both times i face similar issues. With 2 persons, 1 pax pumping the lever & the other pax twisting/pushing/pulling the tube, it takes about 2Hr to extract 4.7L (both time). I suspect another 0.1L inside the pump. Before i start, the Oil level is around Max in the morning when engine is cold, from my experience, its around 5L ± 0.1L. I'm happy with 4.7L, just hope i can do it much faster. Is it because the dipstick need to go thru many section of the boxer engine to reach the oil sump ? Compared to other non-boxer engine that have more "direct" route ? Is it possible to insert the tubing thru the center hole after you remove the Oil Filter ? (not sure if there is anything like waterpump in between) I tried looking at quite a few FA20 engine overhaul, but just couldnt figure out where the dipstick "route" to the oil sump is. Many Thanks. |
Unless you made a typo, you still have ~0.8 L used oil in the engine. The capacity is 5.48 L
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Why not just get a fumoto valve with the nipple so you can attach your hose and drain from the bottom?
https://www.fumotousa.com/images/pro...106N-LC-10.jpg |
Why not just get a fumoto valve with the nipple so you can attach your hose and drain from the bottom?
https://www.fumotousa.com/images/pro...106N-LC-10.jpg |
Hello Guys,
The last 0.5L of the used oil doesnt bother me. I'll probably clock less than 8k km a year since i not working now and i change it at least once a year. Regarding the Oil Capacity, i believe there is some ambiguity on the Manuals. If you follow the Owner Manual (both Toy/Subi), it state: "to wait five minutes or more for the oil to return to the oil pan before checking the oil level." If you top-up to Full on hot engine, That means by the next morning, the dipstick will be around 120-130%. (after dealer servicing, i always get this reading on the next morning) I suppose this scenario will account for the 5.4L in the Spec. But if you follow the BRZ Shop Service Manual (which i do), it states: "To prevent overfilling of engine oil, do not add oil above “F” mark when the engine is cold." In this case, i believe you will only have ~5.0-5.2L in your engine. For the Fumoto valve, can your arm reach it without jacking up ? My head cannot clear the chassis. Best Rgds |
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I have always used a Pneumatic/Manual Fluid Extractor to change my oil. What l do is remove the dip stick tube so I can use a larger diameter tube when sucking out the oil. Doing it this way was faster than draining with far less mess. All it takes is to remove the 10mm bolt at the top of the tube and then pull it out (friction fit). After doing this for years all I had to do is refresh the o ring on the bottom end of the tube as a precaution. With the volume markings on the side of the extractor I’m satisfied that I’m get the same volume as if I had used the drain plug. All so I should mention that the tubes that came with the extractor are made from a very stiff material and can be easily push deep into the oil pan.
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Do you need to cut the tube at an angle to suck the bottom of the pan? Any other trucks for this? What pump do you use? I’ve always thought this may be a nicer way to change oil, but I’ve never taken the plunge past a fumoto valve. |
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for both transmission and engine pan is a bit lower than the plug. So you should get more out doing topside vacuum extraction.
many have had great experiences using the marine extractor https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32427 https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15329 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xe3QzaYCPa4&t=187s |
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https://www.princessauto.com/en/6-li...t/PA0008381725 |
Yes ... removing the Dip Stick housing should be straight forward with just 1 10mm nut/bolt.
Will try out this method if i still face difficulties sucking the oil. For those that have been using this method, does repeat removal warrant to replace the oring (at the bottom of the housing) from your experience ? I certainly hope they can at least last 3x removal before replacement. Thanks :thumbup: |
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use 4x2 wood to climb up your vehicle then you can reach fumoto valve. that's what i do
spending 2 hours pumping for oil change is not convenient. I will rather jack up the car and finish it in 30min |
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The 2Hr+ are mostly spend on "oil exploration" rather than sucking.
Even with my cheap setup, If the sucking is continuous, i estimate it will takes <10min. https://www.lazada.sg/products/i1903...Flag=true&mp=1 (The original tubing too soft, collapse easily. I'm using 1/4" kink-free PU tubing) |
This is like the nth time this subject has been posted.
Since I purchased my car used back in March, 2014 I have never had the old pan drain plug off. I have used this oil extractor: https://www.amazon.com/America-5060T.../dp/B001445IZ8 I remove the dipstick, as in the video in post#13, and insert the larger hose in the hole. I get a little over 5 quarts of oil out. Put a thin film of silicone grease on the dipstick o-ring and install it. Change the filter. Fill it with a 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 0W-20 oil, run the engine for a few minutes and then top it off with a little more oil. Never timed it, but it takes ~30 minutes total. I have not changed the o-ring on the dipstick yet, so far no leaks. Still using the same rubber gaskets that came with the oil extractor. I put a thin film of silicone grease on them also. I had to get a new vinyl hose, ~$0.45 a ft. at Ace Hardware. The original one became hard and brittle. I'm going to get a 3/8" ball valve to replace the plastic clip which after repeated uses does not work well. Here's a good review video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65MMnubY4DA |
I tried using a 12v oil pump on my car a couple years ago. It worked on the BRZ but you had to push it in-out to try and vacuum up the rest of the oil. This risks scaping off plastic bits into your oil. When I tried it on my old 90's Toyota Camry it ended up snagging and biting the end off the tube. In the end I decided it was not worth the risk getting stuck in the tube.
With a fumoto valve I can get the job done much faster, less effort, less risk. |
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+1 for Fumoto. They even come with nipples! Who doesn't like nipples!?
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https://i.pinimg.com/736x/92/c5/bc/9...meme-maker.jpg On topic - I live in a condo, so when I had my BRZ, I bought the Mityvac to do the oil change without needing to jack up the car. It honestly took so long that I ended up selling the Mityvac after a few oil changes, and this was WITH removing the dipstick tube to allow using the larger-diameter tubing. |
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