Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375733)

Hey guys, wondering how I should proceed. I'm lowered on springs about 1.2 inches. In the front I already have a 14mm camber bolt in the bottom strut hole that is maxed out and the 14mm crash bolt in the top strut hole. Which gives me about -1.8 camber. I would like to get around -2.5.

So my question is, should I replace the 14mm crash bolt that I currently have in the top hole with a 16mm cammed bolt and run camber bolts top and bottom?

Or should I slot the top hole of the bottom strut Mount?

Or should I slot the 3 holes at the top of the strut where the top hat mounts to?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

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Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375733)

Hey guys wondering how I should get more front camber. I am lowered 1.2 inches on springs. Have 14mm cam bolts in the bottom hole and crash bolts in the top hole. Currently maxed out a -1.8 camber. Would like to achieve -2.5.

So the options I have come up with are,

Option 1, Run a 16mm cam bolt in the strut top hole in addition to the 14mm cam bolt I already have in the bottom hole.

Option 2, slot the top hole in the strut and continue to use the 14mm crash bolt in the top hole along with the 14mm camber bolt in the bottom hole.

Option 3, slot the 3 holes where the strut mounts to the body. However I'm of the understanding that camber at the hub is more desirable than camber achieved at the top of the strut.


Forgot to mention that I do not want to run camber plates as they are far too expensive.

Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by finch1750 (Post 3375753)

find a different alignment shop. You should be able to get -2.5 from that set-up, or at least very close to it.



I dont believe option 1 will benefit any more than current. Option 2 could but I don't think it's necessary. I dont know that I would cut my strut tower in any way like Option 3

Originally Posted by TommyW (Post 3375759)

Camber plates are much better than screwing around with bolts plus you have a lot more options.

Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 3375760)

DO NOT start cutting slots bigger in the structure of your car or strut.
Save up your money to buy camber plates and do it right or leave it as it is for now.
This is not a 1999 Civic sedan!
Why are you after so much camber anyway? What size wheels/tires are you running?

Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 3375760)

DO NOT start cutting slots bigger in the structure of your car or strut.
Save up your money to buy camber plates and do it right or leave it as it is for now.
This is not a 1999 Civic sedan!
Why are you after so much camber anyway? What size wheels/tires are you running?

Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375758)

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. Everyone else seems to be getting more camber than me. I installed and set the camber myself as well as aligned it using the string method. I only loosened one strut bolt at a time and tried to find all the camber I could by loosening the top nut, pushing the rotor in then tightening the top nut. Then undoing the bottom nut, pulling the rotor out then tightening the nut. I think I may need to loosen both top and bottom bolts at once and push the rotor in at the top while pulling the bottom of the rotor out at the same time? Reason why I did it one at a time is cause I only have one set of hands. [emoji28]

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Originally Posted by finch1750 (Post 3375786)

the bottom bolt is eccentric right? That means you gain camber by turning it not by pulling/pushing the hub. You got the first part right about adjusting the top bolt first.

also getting camber from plates is fine. Sometimes its the only way

Originally Posted by RToyo86 (Post 3375772)

Pedders top mounts are an option.

Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375789)

Yes bottom bolt is an eccentric bolt. I'll try again and see if I get more camber.

Do you perhaps think it could be from my drop that I'm not getting enough camber? From my understanding our cars being a MacPherson design in front and only gains camber up to 1" of travel anything after we lose camber? So if I'm dropped 1.2" could that be where some of my camber is going?

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Originally Posted by Ashikabi (Post 3375795)

I suspect you're just not adjusted properly. He's right about the eccentric bolt, you have to turn the bolt to change the camber position, not pull on the hub.

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Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375797)

That could very well be it. I'll be double checking my work. I do remember rotating the eccentric bolt thru it's whole rotation multiple times and measuring the distance between hub and a fixed point to verify max camber. Thank you. [emoji106]

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Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375733)

Hey guys wondering how I should get more front camber. I am lowered 1.2 inches on springs. Have 14mm cam bolts in the bottom hole and crash bolts in the top hole. Currently maxed out a -1.8 camber. Would like to achieve -2.5.

So the options I have come up with are,

Option 1, Run a 16mm cam bolt in the strut top hole in addition to the 14mm cam bolt I already have in the bottom hole.

Option 2, slot the top hole in the strut and continue to use the 14mm crash bolt in the top hole along with the 14mm camber bolt in the bottom hole.

Option 3, slot the 3 holes where the strut mounts to the body. However I'm of the understanding that camber at the hub is more desirable than camber achieved at the top of the strut.


Forgot to mention that I do not want to run camber plates as they are far too expensive.

Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by HaXx (Post 3375800)

i dont blame you, i just looked at ftspeed and camber plates are between 300-400 USD. you might look into onimade camber plates. 200+25 shipping USD. Im not sure if you can use camber plates on stock struts. i know you might not ilke them bc theyre a stance product, but for what they do vs how much they cost...



just another option that you might not have considered...



https://scontent-bos3-1.cdninstagram...MjMyMA%3D%3D.2

Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375762)

I was under the impression based on my reading that camber added via plates isn't as desirable as camber via the hub due to something called SAI? I don't really understand it, it's just what I read.

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Originally Posted by TommyW (Post 3375815)

That is Steering Axis Inclination. I does have SOME benefit is certain applications as far as scrub radius however when introducing negative camber that way the tires will most likely hit the struts

Originally Posted by RToyo86 (Post 3375772)

Pedders top mounts are an option.

Originally Posted by Muskoka800 (Post 3375826)

I use Pedders top mounts which are good for -.75 along with the 14mm camber bolts (bottom hole) and 16mm camber bolts (top hole) and have achieved -2.75 front camber (aligned by Alex at Burning Rubber in Oakville).

Using a pyrometer, the tread surface shows very similar values all across during 8-10 lap sessions at TMP. This with Conti Extreme Contact Sport 245-45-17.

Using Blox LCA's adjusted at -1.5 rear camber, similar even temps are found out back.

After about 6-7 lapping events these tires, which wear incredibly slow, show dead even wear across their width.

Originally Posted by TommyW (Post 3375815)

That is Steering Axis Inclination. I does have SOME benefit is certain applications as far as scrub radius however when introducing negative camber that way the tires will most likely hit the struts

Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375841)

Gotcha, I just had a look at the strut to tire clearance. Looks like I still have several mm left at -1.8. Getting a little close though.

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Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 3375760)

DO NOT start cutting slots bigger in the structure of your car or strut.
Save up your money to buy camber plates and do it right or leave it as it is for now.
This is not a 1999 Civic sedan!
Why are you after so much camber anyway? What size wheels/tires are you running?

Originally Posted by strat61caster (Post 3375851)

99 civics had double wishbones up front.

https://imageapi.partsdb.com.au/api/...TKVPEJbUCSnYS7

I wouldn't bother tracking with less then -3 degrees of camber up front unless I really wanted to destroy a set of tires. Competitive autox setups are around -4 degrees camber up front.

Originally Posted by RToyo86 (Post 3375772)

Pedders top mounts are an option.

Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 3375852)

Just a "lets butcher a base sedan Civic to make it cool" reference. Was not intended to be accurate nor truthful.

Originally Posted by strat61caster (Post 3375886)

Mustang factory service manual has instructions for slotting the struts to gain camber.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/thr...uctions.54909/

Originally Posted by strat61caster (Post 3375886)

Mustang factory service manual has instructions for slotting the struts to gain camber.



https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/thr...uctions.54909/

Originally Posted by TommyW (Post 3375845)

Let me know what your specs are



Tire size

Wheel width

Wheel offset

I'll tell you what you can get away with

Originally Posted by Tcoat (Post 3375887)

This is NOT a Mustang.

Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375888)

My old E46 was factory slotted at the top mounts. And I see plenty of autocrossers slot top mounts/struts.



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Originally Posted by yzf219 (Post 3375881)

So I double checked my bolts and I'm pretty sure they are installed correctly. I marked the bolt head to show where the lobe is. I referenced the SPC instructions and they seem to be installed correctly can anyone please verify. My bolts aren't SPC they are DORMAN bolts but the theory is the same. Thanks
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Originally Posted by HaXx (Post 3375898)

i know some track people use a camber bolt in bottom and skinny crash bolt up top giving you adjustment from both holes but somehow they dont catch flack, realistically its fine, and so is slotted struts, but who am i.

Originally Posted by TommyW (Post 3375845)

Let me know what your specs are



Tire size

Wheel width

Wheel offset

I'll tell you what you can get away with

Originally Posted by finch1750 (Post 3375753)

find a different alignment shop. You should be able to get -2.5 from that set-up, or at least very close to it.



I dont believe option 1 will benefit any more than current. Option 2 could but I don't think it's necessary. I dont know that I would cut my strut tower in any way like Option 3

Originally Posted by HaXx (Post 3375898)

Heres what i would have you do



keep the bottom oem bolt in the bottom hole, and put the camber bolt up top and push the top of the wheel in.



I have learned a fair amount about how people run double digit camber. while we are idiots, we're not stupid. they ALWAYS anchor the bottom hole with the bottom oem bolt. you dont want 2 sketchy connections. people running big camber will get their adjustment from the top hole, either slotting inward, or in your case with a camber bolt, but the bottom hole is ALWAYS oem, that is the anchor that we dont mass with.(im not going to bring up FLCA in this thread)



i know some track people use a camber bolt in bottom and skinny crash bolt up top giving you adjustment from both holes but somehow they dont catch flack, realistically its fine, and so is slotted struts, but who am i.



many people do many different things, different bolts in different holes, but i recommend having the bottom be your anchor. hey, im not a fan of slotting struts either, thats why i got the onimade camber plates.



with the oem bottom bolt in the bottom hole, and an eccentric bolt up top, that will give you camber that is appropriate for the ability of most track enthusiasts.