STX setup sharing thread (2020)
 

I'm new to the group, we bought a Hankone Edition a month ago with the intent of building it later this year for STX. So far I have a line on a couple used parts, and some thoughts for when the budget opens up a little for the big stuff.

Core setup to look like this:
[Suspension]
MCS two way coilovers, 400 lb springs
Karcepts front bar (used part)
Adjustable rear bar
Keeping the Torsen

[Engine]
HKS EL header (used part)
Tune to match for pump gas

Still a lot to fill in. Comments?

Welcome.
That sounds like a pretty reasonable start. Maybe think about some autox oriented brake pads And a choice on 200 tread wear tires.

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Welcome and congrats on the 86. Check out the Mid Atlantic section of the forum and the BiWeekly Fairfax thread. Good group and a good amount of us autocross with Capital Driving Club and Washington SCCA.

Here’s an example of a full STX build to give you an idea of how far you can take it
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129578

Thanks for the comments and the link, having a build list is very helpful. I expect to put in poly bushings pretty much everywhere over time unless they don't work - sometimes poly bushings bind things up.

No choice on tires yet, there are frequent enough updates that I don't expect to pick a tire until later. It looks like 17x9 is the wheel size of choice, probably RPF1s.

On brake pads, is everyone using the same compound front and rear? Anything to be avoided? Currently I don't expect to do an upgrade beyond pads/hoses/fluid.

Follow the K.I.S.S. method. Lots of people like to throw money at everything thinking it's better. Doesn't necessarily mean it's right.

Look at the FRS cars that all have won nationals, going back to when they were first introduced into STX - you'll see none of them were ever full-tilt prep. To this date - only one even had an OSG (Lugod).

The only bushings you should prioritize is the whiteline insert bushings for the subframe. Every other one, can wait...IMO. This is the only bushing set I've done.

I run DS2500s F/R. I think they're the best overall pad you can get. Many options to choose. I don't think splitting pad compounds is the best idea.

I think the ideal STX setup needs to be built around an OS Giken STX-Tuned 1-Way LSD. I believe the LSD lets you run stiffer rear springs and properly utilize a stiffer front sway bar. Not sure if a 1-Way from another manufacturer will work equally as well.

From the previous STX threads, this is what you want:
- OS Giken STX-Tuned 1-Way LSD
- 5k Front Springs/9k Rear Springs
- 4.2 Degrees Camber Front / 2.8 Degrees Camber Rear
- 22mm Front Bar
- 13mm Rear Bar (Mann Engineering)

That sounds VERY loose...


That said, the math says the normal setup should be really pushy based on ride frequency, so who knows.


I will say, a 1 way diff doesn't seem like a great idea and I have a Giken in my STR car so it's not biased against after market diffs.

Whats the go to front control arm bushings? That are not Whiteline. Sick of their stuff failing. Stock or is there something else?

Rallispec has some STI hardened bushings for the front control arms that I have been eyeing up.
http://www.rallispec.com/mou_bush_rstbkbrz.html

I switched to SuperPro bushings. I've had better experience with those.

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I was looking at those, are they STX legal?

The SuperPro are simply polyurethane, with the metal sleeve section for the bolt, like the Whiteline ones. The polyurethane seems to be a different hardness, though.

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Do you have any pics of them? Are they 1 piece like OEM or 2 piece like the whiteline?

I don't have pictures, and it's been a long time since I worked on it, so I looked up the install instructions.
There are two bushing locations in the front control arms.
The front ones are one piece, the rear ones are two piece.
I forgot that the front ones have a new sleeve that replaces the OEM bushing sleeve, which makes sliding in the new polyurethane easier.

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so what is the maxium camber that i can be running daily? I was running -2.5 front last year then got some indys and was running on the outside edge. So i maxed the plate out for about 1/2 a degree more and i still had a hotter outside than inside. This year ill be running re71rs and figured id even even more but i dont want to shred my dailys.
i was thinking about asking the place to set me at -3 front and keep the back at -2.1 but leave 1/2 a degree so i could max them out at events and not have a huge toe problem

I'm on -4/-2.3 right now and just eating the tire degradation at the front inside on the dailies with cheaper Indy 500s, -3/-2 with an additional half a degree available up front for testing makes sense. I say grab some toe plates and zero out the toe yourself, sure it's extra work but eventually you'll know how much to turn to get it to work.

As long as you toe it to zero, and depending on the softness of the tire, anything in the -3 range should be fine. On regular roads, you normally aren't going to be using that much camber through dynamic camber loss and you will have decreased braking performance... but as long as you are smart, it is fine... in the southern US.

do you have a link to these plate? i thought they only made rear toe arms. is there a calculator on how much toe out you get added with camber? im already running toe out up front so it might just make sense to pick something and 0 it then i adjust it at the event and then ill have toe out. also suspension isnt my forte




yeah i drive this in the snow. not trying to drive to work with -3.5* tilty wheels in the slush.

I assume he means toe plates, as in the alignment tool.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...9&prodid=10270

If you're running your car in winter, it makes sense to just reset alignment to something reasonable and deal with it come the spring.

I run -4.2/-2.5

Debating on more front camber for next year

Has anyone else looked at the 2020 draft rules? It looks like the twins have been moved into STS for 2020.

I see this as well. This would put the twins in a totally different slower pack. (not that I've ever won my class since im out-tire'd and out-skilled)

Whereas I normally race against a few Civic Si, Mini Cooper S, and some 3 series BMW's, now it would be a field of non-si civics, non s coopers, and most any NA compact cars.

M0nk3y has a setup that works, but the front camber previously seemed extreme. Now, I don't think so.

I'm going to go up in camber in front this year. I'll probably be in the -4.1 range.

I switched to 7k springs in the front during the down season, so with the softer setup, I decided to raise my car's ride height. I noticed at national's last year, I was probably the lowest setup, and not in a good way. In a different thread I mentioned bottoming out (tire hitting the top of the wheel well), and I want to reduce that.

With more travel and softer springs, and Yokohama tires, I think I'll have more front grip, so I'll probably need more camber. I measure tire temps, so I'll know if the adjustment helps.

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Hmmm, that doesn't make sense. The stock limited slip diff is specifically not allowed in STS so all the twins would have to install aftermarket diffs????

"STS class: No limited slip differentials are permitted except for factory standard viscous coupler-type units."

I suspect the twins will be moved backed to STX after this is pointed out to the SEB...

Letter sent to the SEB requesting they stay in STX

Doh, looking a little closer, it's just the header on that column. It should have been "STX continued" instead of "Street Touring Sport". The next page has "STS Continued" but that's really the start of STS (it starts with Acura....)

That also means every stx brz setup is illegal as tire and wheel size is reduced.


****Looking at Rules, I think SCCA messed up. The title shows STS but, STS clearly starts on the next page as they always do groupings by manufacture in alphabetical order.

See above:

"Doh, looking a little closer, it's just the header on that column. It should have been "STX continued" instead of "Street Touring Sport". The next page has "STS Continued" but that's really the start of STS (it starts with Acura....)"

I sent a letter to the SEB to point it out...

Perhaps in those letters ask for the 2018-2020 cars to be included too? Right now the STX listing ends at 2017.

STS, STX... I'd still be slow.

oh duh im a moron

Still STX
 

I got an email from Doug Gill confirming the STS thing was just a typo in the column header of the draft rules. The twins are still in STX for 2020.
Barry

Hey guys, so I just picked up a 2013 brz limited this past summer from a friend. I spend most of the summer just driving the car and enjoying it being so busy. This next year I'm planning on getting back into autocross and am just looking for input. Definitely thinking going the stx route, in your guys opinion, what's the best thing to do first on these cars, let's say you have $2,000 for this year what are you spending it on? I have a catback exhaust on the car and a k&n drop in filter. As well as a larger (i forget which sway bar at the moment) and tires I will be going the 71's as I work for bridgestone, tires are dirt cheap. Also I currently have hawk hp+ pads all the way around with decent life yet. So other than that, where are you putting the money? I'm trying to be smart on my spending as I have another project car, (factory five 818) I'm trying to finish this year as well.

Coilovers and alignment, lots of discussion in this thread, last years thread, and the overall stx thread.

Cool cool yeah I've been combing over everything and just trying to prioritize for this year. I feel like on these things, it can get real crazy real quick when you start to add up the modifications. Almost more so than any other Subaru ive owned.

This has been posted elsewhere but fuck it lets throw it in this thread too; budget recipe for an STX build imho

17x9 Wheels
Tirerack brand, ~$668
245/40/17 RE71R
Tirerack $742
Mounted and balanced from TR to my door ~$1410 + taxes

ProParts STX Megan Coilovers (comes with camber plates and front end links)
~$2k shipped with taxes iirc
Whiteline rear subframe inserts ~$50
SPC rear LCA's + Diftech bushings ~$300 (or Whiteline LCA's)
Perrin 22mm Front Swaybar ~$240

Header
$700 name brand short tube header (UEL for da torques n burbles, Tomei/JDL/etc.)
OpenFlash Tablet
$500

Total: $5,200

Buy used and you can cut your total down to <$4k (wheels, first set of comp tires, coilovers, header, OFT).


People will prioritize differently "gotta have X, Y is crap don't buy that" and there are absolutely more expensive parts with measurable gains, but I think that they're in the noise unless you're capable of extracting 99.99% of the cars potential and you're trying to beat someone also capable of extracting 99.99% of the cars potential.

I could easily make a build list >$15k (without resorting to $10k Penske dampers or $4k wheels), but I don't think it's worth it, if I get beat with the above basic parts it's probably because I got outdriven, not outspent.

That being said I'm probably going to plop down $700 for a Karcepts front sway bar (because I don't think my 20mm bar is stiff enough and I can afford to spend an extra $500 on a swaybar) and a $900 set of A052's, might even go for a catback if the right one pops up coincidentally when I find some cash burning a hole in my pocket.

so ive seen people run both whiteline and perrin. whats the difference between the 2 if they are both the same size?

Whiteline doesn't publish stiffness numbers, hole location/arm length, metal choice, construction, heat treating, bend radius could all affect stiffness. They're likely close but I would not claim they are identical so I'm just picking Perrin based off the advice of a few different people and the fact that they publish a real spring rate for their bar.

That's not a IMO build, that's the current national champ build. Teddie's car is a carbon copy of my old car and Jeff Wong's original build. Some parts are slightly different but they all serve the same purpose. And she didn't have the rear LCA's either.

The Whiteline bar is stiffer than the Perrin because bar angles, so you're basically stuck on full soft or it pushes. Depending on your coilovers rates.

I honestly wouldn't be surprised if I'm at -4.5 for this season. I still have to think over some things

FRS CoG is pretty low, I think back in the early development people tried slamming the car. As a result, one of the impacts was snapping axles.

Available shock travel I think is often overlooked as a pretty key important setup tool. One of the reasons I chose remotes on my MCS was the available travel in the rear + not having to run bump stops.

End result is the car can do stupid stuff like this and not get upset:

https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...e0&oe=5EA2E44B


Hole location so the effective rate is different between the two. Personally, besides the subframe bushings I think Whiteline products are absolute garbage. When I first setup my car, I had a whiteline bar on my car. I couldn't figure out forever why my car would contact the right (passenger) LCA and not the left. The bar was actually extruded 0.5" further on the right than the left. Whiteline factory wasn't even aware of the design flaw until I pointed it out to them.

+yokes yes

But some schmuck will claim only heitkotter could win on Megan's ;)

I won't go down that road - however I'll show you this video of final National runs on the East side where Heitkotter embarrassed as all.

You'll see 3 cars:

Ray - who is on KW v3s
Me - MCS 2Way Remotes
Bryan: ProPart Megan

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLZgiePJnws[/ame]

Per Bryan's comment from what HE saw watching:

FWIW - Read as you see fit