Installing Dynamat on doors: OK to leave the black glue?
 

I am attempting to install Dynamat for the first time in my doors, and I removed the plastic moisture barrier per the instructions, but the adhesive left on the door is so soft and sticky that it's a pain in the ass to try and remove. The more I try to scrub it off (after using some adhesive remover) the more it seems that I'm just spreading it around. Is it OK to just put the Dynamat over the adhesive?

Yup, just leave it. Butyl sticks to everything and so does dynamat.

:happy0180: Thanks!

Let us know if it takes away that terrible rattle of too much bass.

HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!

I did some selective Dynamat around the speakers in the doors and now that all the rattles keep popping up I will be adding a full job to my to do list.

I just did this on my BRZ and the doors are now rock solid. Next up is that rattling rear :sigh:

Are there any instructions for doing a full dynamat on a brz?

Instructions

Strip everything out that bolts or snaps in place
Place Dynamat on metal
Reinstall everything that bolts or snaps in place

Needs pics.

can you link what you ordered? i've been looking at this:

Dynamat Xtreme Door Kit 10435
Xtreme Door Sound Dampening Kit with Four 12" x 36" Pieces
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA15Y0AE3155

would that be enough?

I'm curious about the same thing in case i went for a full dynamat door job.

I was planning on just putting dynamat around the speakers and some on the outer door skin. Then installing dynaliner over the doors between the inner door skin and the door panel. That should kill the rattles and help the audio quality a bit shouldn't it?

Guys, guys, guys!

Dynamat is just a brand name product for CLD. If you are buying Dynamat, I sincerely hope you have considered at least one of the handful of other brands out there that perform the same as, if not better than, Dynamat for a (sometimes MUCH) lower price.

I'm installing GTMAT right now on my FRS. 25ft^2 of GTMAT Ultra (80mil) cost me $60 shipped & no tax from Amazon.[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008L3ZRZQ/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]link[/ame] The kit also comes with a little roller than really helps with installation (you need to buy it separate with Dynamat - another $15).

The 25ft^2 should be enough to make a difference.... installed in the two doors, the trunk lid, and some light use under the spare tire... it really all depends on how much weight you want to add to a light sports car. For the doors, I have about 30% coverage on the outer skin, and 30% coverage on the inner skin (focused around the 6.5" woofer). Websites on this stuff says the important thing (besides eliminating rattles) is to separate the air from the front of the woofer from the air behind the speaker. That's why I bought some "For Rent" signs and duct-taped the few holes that exist on the inner skin. I'm still looking for something similar to Dynaliner for between the inner skin and the door card. Be careful not to overdo the trunk liner or else the auto trunk release may not open the trunk cause its too heavy. Make sure you also take care of the rear license plate/frame cause that is a very common source of rattles.

Here's a "work-in-progress" photo from Saturday.... I can post some more of the finished product later.

If you pulled off the moister barrier you should cover the whole door. The Dynamat will then act as a replacement barrier.

Yeah photo doesn't show I finished product.

Dynaliner would be better to replace the barrier. Leave the CLD on the outer skin.

Here is the near-finished product on the passenger side. I sealed the open holes with pieces of a "For Rent" sign and some duct tape and then some additional application of CLD (FTMAT).

I really like the way the 6.5" speaker sounds now with the holes sealed. I also really like the sound of how the door shuts. With the driver side undone and the passenger as it is right now, I can really tell and hear the difference.

I think I should probably try to put a layer of Dynaliner (CCF) in between the inner skin and the door card. For those of you guys that have done it, does CCF make that much of a difference? Not sure if I'm going to do MLD though as recommended at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/.

ccf didnt make much if any of a difference for me. Personally I dont think all cars need cld,ccf, and mld. most are fine with just cld.
I did the dynaliner because I had it already, but I really dont think it was needed.

Since I didn't answer the OP's question: yes, it's fine to leave the black glue. However, it is ultra super duper easy to take that black glue off if you still have your moisture barrier sheets - the "glue" tends to stay stuck to the plastic moisture barrier so you can just dab it on to the "glue" that is still stuck to your door and pull it away. The "glue" will stick to itself and if you pull it off quickly enough, you'll have no black stuff on the door.

For most of you I'm guessing that you're dynamating for the improved audio and that's a great advantage but what about the outside road noise and improved cabin quietness even over things like road noise or a loud exhaust?

Necro-thread - anyone have a DIY on this for taking the doors apart? I know, remove it all, wrap it up, put it back together. Right, got it.

I'm wondering if there are any tricks to getting the door panels off/on without breaking clips or fasteners.

Screwdriver with tape on the end. Wiggle it under the silver inlay of the door handle... from the bottom or from the side at the bottom. Lever that tab out, and swing the inlay upward. Slip it out of the upper slot.

Undo the 2 bolts and using a panel popper or gently pulling every 6" around the side, bottom and other side. Lift the assembly upward. Find the electrical clips and unclip them. Find the door lock cables and fiddle with them until the balls come loose (hu hu hurr).

No major issues with this door, just be slow and gentle until you get comfortable with the layout.

Search is your friend: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...highlight=door

TIL I suck at searching.

Thanks.

I HAVE 75FT OF DYNAMAT ,AND STILL TOOK OUT MY 3RD BRAKE LIGHT :popcorn:.......................

I am still in the process of gutting my interior. Trunk is done to include the entire rear deck...and the SOB is still rattling! That 3rd brake light is a crappy piece of engineering. I think separating the assembly and Gorilla gluing it is my final answer before shooting it in the face.

Roof, floor, firewall, and tunnel are the next two days of work.