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Xander Performance 2013 frs lsx swap

'bout time this thread gets started.

You can use IMGUR on your phone. There's an app and you can upload photos easily.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clash0901 (Post 3261476)

You can use IMGUR on your phone. There's an app and you can upload photos easily.

I'm having issues with it loading some of my pictures. Doesn't want to upload all of them so I may have to upload to facebook or something and then link them here. :/

Alright guys, I posted a few more pictures working my way up to where I am currently with the LS swap. More of the more recent pictures to come shortly!!

More LS pictures posted. Let me know your thoughts.

Looks like a good time. Solid work!

Nice looks like your using the sikky swap kit. I have been wanting to see a swap with this kit. Interested to see engine, and transmission location compared to the other kits out. It looks like a good product produced by a good company with advanced tools to get it just about perfect.

Got some more pictures posted. Ran into some issues with trans tunnel issues. Had to shave some tabs off of the trans. Shifter spot seems pretty good. I'm going to see if I can get an MGW shifter located at the 6 oclock position. I also have another solution for the hydraulic side of things. More pictures to come!

So far this thread is awesome! Curious, are you keeping the Airlift setup on it?

Is it me, or is that driveshaft not long enough? Looks short

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clash0901 (Post 3263846)

So far this thread is awesome! Curious, are you keeping the Airlift setup on it?

Honestly I have sold the air ride setup and have gone with fortune auto coils.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DustinS (Post 3263861)

Is it me, or is that driveshaft not long enough? Looks short

That's what I was thinking but James at sikky told me that some of these trans have a thick boot that's part of the deal back there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by all4spl (Post 3263869)

That's what I was thinking but James at sikky told me that some of these trans have a thick boot that's part of the deal back there.

Interesting. Mine doesn't stick that far out and I am 95% sure I am still getting a vibration because if my driveshaft not fitting far enough on. Now it has me questioning if my trans really is bad :sigh:

Quote:

Originally Posted by DustinS (Post 3263861)

Is it me, or is that driveshaft not long enough? Looks short

Can second that. Way short unless that yoke is super long.

@all4spl How long is the yoke? You have a good picture measuring of how much is hanging out. I was just wondering how much is engaged. It looks like a game of just the tip, but pictures can be deceiving.

haha Thanks guys, I will pull out when i can and measure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by all4spl (Post 3264177)

haha Thanks guys, I will pull out when i can and measure.

Alternatively yoke pushed in all the way you should only have 1/2” (Or less) gap to your rear diff flange.

update original post with measurements and another clutch master fix.

Thanks for the update. I like the fitment of this kit. I'm not using the same transmission so I don't know how deep that yoke could go in it just looks like it's out a bit to far, but that's based on me comparing it to my setup on my swap. Found you already confirmed fitment in previous post though. Can't wait to for more updates!

I'm currently working on the oil relocation kit for the pan. But I also want to start plugging away at the wiring aspect of this. Does anyone have a FRS ECU pinout diagram? I have spend a few hours looking at a service manual but I have a fuel blank spots and it would sure be easier if someone already did the hard work of labeling each pin.

I also pretty much finished my fuel system. I went with a radium surge tank with a deatschwerks dw400 drop in pump, ran a return line to factory hat for the surge and ran PTFE lines as clean as I could and keep everything in tact.

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...94&oe=60591C01
.5" aluminum sheet for stability of the tank.
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ed&oe=60576930 https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...af&oe=605952CC https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...8e&oe=6057D4EE https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...4e&oe=6058C70E https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...70&oe=6056D866

Also had my buddies over at MGW send me a shifter for this bad boy. :)
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e1&oe=60576667
Here are some updated engine bay pictures showing my Fancy BTR intake manifold. If anyone needs any parts or help, please reach out as I am a dealer for almost anything you need. Especially all of the parts that I have utilized.
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2e&oe=6058FFFC https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...86&oe=60589D5C https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...7a&oe=6056FC2E

Hey man, nice work so far! If you dont mind, I would like to point some things I see on your pics which might be causing some issues in the future:

-As said before, I believe the yoke is not far enough in the tranny. I see a danger of damaging the outbut shaft
-Dont know what size the driveshaft joints are, but since they seem to have the diameter of the OEM diff flange I tend to believe they are smaller then 1330 series, whats too small in my eyes. As well, when using a steel shaft, the diameter of the shaft seems to small to safely manage the rpm at the theoretical top speed a LS3 can make in this car. Depending on rear ratio this is arround 11krpm and up. Even a 100mm steel shaft is not able to handle that as a one piece design. Still, 100mm is more than the tunnel can accept without mods. Only Option is to go 2 piece design, or different material like aluminum or better carbon. (lighter shafts can handle high rpm way better, even if the material itself is less rigid) I also learned this leason the hard way. On the other Hand, the question is if you plan to go that fast. Im living in Germany and for now you can go still as fast as the car is able to. I run into serious issues with my 100mm steel one piece shaft over 250kph.
-The wrapping angeles of the crank pulley and water pump seem very small. This might result in slipping, fast wearing or thrown belt.
-Removing the V bar is, at least cornering performance wise, a highly questionable step in my book. I would highly recommend measures to reinforce the chassis again to regain the lost stiffness. A simple strut tower Bar might not be enough to achieve this.
-Im not sure if the position of the oil filter is good. Never saw one installed horizontal. Sure, will do its Job even in this position, but I could imagine that particles might accumulate on the lower side first. This could result in an unequal pressure load to the filter material which would not be possible in a vertical position. But just theory in this point, not sure about that.

Good luck and keep us updates!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRS (Post 3413467)

-Removing the V bar is, at least cornering performance wose, a highly questionable step in my book. I would highly recommend measrures to reinforce the chassis again to regain the lost stiffness. A simple strut tower Bar might not be enough to achieve this.
-Im not sure if the position of the oil filter is good. Never saw one installed horizontal.

I just wanted to say here that a lot of factory vehicles use a horizontal oil filter.

I also wanted to say that I drove my car for about 3 years before someone on here gave me their support bars. I added them to my car and did not really notice a different. My car was on 200tw tires and was driven hard fairly often (Not track). I don't have a way of measuring how much it would've added at the limit, but I don't get the impression it would've been much.

I know your feedback was meant to be constructive, I'm not bashing you; just wanted to add my experience

No problem, I dont mind any feedback out of expierience. Giving such a Feedback is the same I do... :w00t:

The V bar is there for a reason definately. Its a Chassis stiffness feature which can be found on Many subaru chassis of this familly. I have even seen V bars with sliped nuts after hard curb driving, jumps and also light crashes. They definately take some serious force from the strut towers. Still, you can drive the car without them for a long time, no question about that. But it for sure negatively impacts chassis stiffness. Especially with a heavier and more powerfull engine sitting on the Front axle it is nothing I would like to do. I made many measurements and adapters to keep the V bars in my LS swap therefore. I also can imagine that it is hard to fell the difference in road driving, even fast road driving. But you will feel under serious track driving.

With the oil filter, as I said, I might be wrong. Just didnt see this orientation in any installation jet. But as I said, this doesnt mean it is wrong... :iono:

Edit: I digged a little into that and found out that the orientation is indeed not decisive. Any orientation is fine. So cancel this point, my bad.

Thanks guys for your input. I wanted the filter like this for ease of drain and exchange. Instead of oil covering the filter and my hand, now it falls out of the way.

The driveshaft was supplied by sikky. Will change when I do 8.8 diff. Hope it holds for now.

The v brace needed to be removed as they didn't fit the intake. After removing it fit nicely and I removed firewall mount section for additional clearance. May look into strut bar. Def open to feedback and ideas here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRS (Post 3413467)

Feel free to send me an idler bracket for driver side head and ill fix this 😉

Quote:

Originally Posted by all4spl (Post 3413597)

Feel free to send me an idler bracket for driver side head and ill fix this ��

Just make one as I did. :cheers: Did you check out the belt routing I chose? You can do a similar solution with simple materials. In my case the bracket is not that simple since I needed a very exact idler position to have room for my airbox design and as well a part of the AC Routing is integrated. Thats why I made a milled part from billet material. But I assume you dont Plan to keep AC, so this might be overkill.

You can do pretty much the same for cheap. Just use three simple equal length steel tubes and a 5mm steel plate. Stick long screws through plate and tubes and fix against the left head. Then you need the two GM idlera, one flat one with rips. You can go with the exact same routing as I did of you like to. All Information about that is given in my swap thread. With this solution, you also can freely decide for the exact postion of the added idler by instaling the belt with tensioner moved all the way to the right and then mark the position on the plate. You can then put a threaded hole in the plate at this position.

Edit: Just recognized that I never uploaded a good picture of my routing. Here is one, parts used are Liste in this thread.

https://abload.de/img/dsc_2646n2jeu.jpg

I do plan to run with A/C. What radiator do you plan to use?

I first installed the Skunk2Ultra with integrted oil cooler. But I found out that it is not a good idea to have an integrted oil cooler, since the core area in the 86 is too small to take also the heat of the oil. As well the core design of the Skunk2 is far from ideal. The fins are very wide and do not have the best geometry. So compared to its size it is not performing very good. As well I used the Mishimoto fan shroud, what turned out to be a big part of the issue. The A/C radiator was always a new OEM unit. I ran into serious overheating issues under 30°C and up outside temps when driving slow, Stop&Go, and with A/C.

I then switched to a koyorad aluminium radiator. This is not the best unit you can buy as well, but suitable and a good bang for the bug. As well I did throw out the Mishimoto for the OEM unit, which in fact produces a noticable higher airflow. For oil Im running a setrab slimline cooler mounted under the front crash bar. Its about 600mm wide and 120mm tall. It is also available in a taller Version, up to 240mm I believe. This unit would fit in the same place, but would take most of the direct airflow through the front grill. So I decided for a compromise.

And last but not least I changed the fan switching temp about 15°C down. Im running a OEM GM ECU with mainly OEM settings and they seem to have very high switching points.

After that the car is running OK. Not realy cool with plenty of marging, but OK.

Made some updated posts for you guys. :) Progress is slow but surely.

Very nice work. What manifolds are those? They look like vette manifolds? How's the collector clearance?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Q8D (Post 3503424)

Very nice work. What manifolds are those? They look like vette manifolds? How's the collector clearance?

Everything fits perfectly. And yes c6 manifolds. Pricey, but fit perfectly.