My Brz rear cambers are little off. Should I realign?
 

Hi all!

I just got an alignment after installing front camber bolts and Eibach prokit Spring, but rear ones are little off

im at -2.12 left and -2.03 right (stock spec -1.92 to -0.42)

Should I get rear camber bolts as well and realign the car?
I am just a daily driver and sprited driving once in a while. No racing

For your information, here is the total spec of my car:

https://ibb.co/BP2SD2d

That's fine for DD, you actually want a few degrees negative for better handling.


My fronts are -3 and rears are -2.

i didnt attach my current spec here it is

with uneven camber of a little bit in the back the car is going to slightly pull to one side but nothing crazy. since its in the rear i don't think you can fix this with bolts, you would need an LCA set to get them even. Over such a small difference i wouldn't stress it unless it really bugs you not being 100% straight.

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/whit...B#.XUSjPOhKiUk

with this, it will fix the uneven camber. Confirmed by the manufacturer.

I'm still thinking what to do.

I would leave it as is, not even 0.1 degree difference! MANY stock cars are almost 1.0 degrees off in terms of crosscamber and they drive fine. You're good.

edit: looking at your alignment sheet, did you have them zero out front camber with the bolts? they should be negative.

Yes , I installed camber bolts front. Why do they have to be negative?

OE spec and Prokit spec are 0.00 deg(+/-0.75deg) and -0.2 deg respectively.

isn't 0 fine?

You install bolt kits to be able to add some negative camber, not to adjust back to 0. OE spec is to make a car understeer, under all conditions. Someone in the government decided cars are safer if they plow in to the barrier rather than spin. Performance wise, that's a terrible decision.

Any reason they didn't measure caster? While not adjustable, it's nice to know nothing weird is going on.

Getting your toe set is definitely the most important, I would deal with the camber as well. As negative as the bolts will go in the front, should be -1.5 or so. LCAs in the rear if you do want to dial it back a bit, your cross camber is good though.

Thanks, I will realign front to be -1.5. Any recommendation for rear degree?
I will get Rear Control arm - upper inner bushing soon.

The rear bushings aren't bad but adjustable control arms are easier for alignment techs aka cheaper to adjust and to install. The SPC arms are fine for most and are cheap, $200 or less.

Typically on these cars you'd want more negative camber in the front than the rear but i wouldn't stress about it.

Get the Moog arms for the rear, they're identical to the SPC and Whiteline rear LCAs, but cheaper. You're shooting for a very minimal amount of negative camber in the rear, at least 1 degree more in the front than the rear. So if you are setting the front to -1.5 (which is good for a daily driver) you should set the rear to around -0.5. Main thing is to ensure your cross camber is zeroed out when the adjustments are done and that toe is taken care of appropriately.

What tires are you running? Some tires prefer more camber than others. For most common 300tw class tires though I wouldn't go more than -2 in the front. Front camber bolts usually max out around -2.5.

Rear camber -2.12 left and -2.03 right ? I wouldn't bother, even more so if DD only.
Now if toe would be different side to side by 0.1, i would. But you won't feel much of a difference by 0.09 camber, which also can be slightly further reduced if you sit in car.

It's good to have more negative camber in the front than rear, but I still wouldn't go under -1.5 in the rear for a fun street car.

Your toe is fine. -1.5 camber front and rear will be fine.

- Andrew

Stock tires. I might set it up at -1.5 front, -1.0 rear

Thanks, Andrew!

-1.5 front ,and -1.0 rear is good too , right?

I wouldn't go less than -1.5 in the rear.

Didn't you say its better to have front to be more negative than rear?

Why do you recommend front and both to be same?

Even camber won't be horrible on the street. I would take even if you are keeping the front down to -1.5. If you were getting up into the -2 and higher in the front then you start to dial less in the rear.

Take Andrew's word for it more then mine. He is the professional. lol

It's better to have more front than rear as a general rule, but less than -1.5 rear is IMO not good if you happen to be limited up front.

- Andrew

i c. I will leave my toes as now, and set up -1.5 front , -1.5 rear.

Thanks for your advice, Andrew!

by the way, did your advice take account of lowered spring (Eibach Pro-kit) and I'm a daily driver with just occasional sprited driving (no racing, autox)?

Alignment looks OK except they should maximize front camber.

Do not worry about whether you have more camber in back, it is not a big deal, particularly for street. Your rear camber numbers are fine, you don't need to get adjustable arms (which I think are WAY overprescribed BTW...).

All you need is to have them dial in more front camber, as much as you can get with the camber bolts as while maintaining ~2-3mm clearance between suspension and tires/wheels. Keep toe minimized, close to zero. The zero front and 12 arc-minutes total rear (0.2 degrees total) is fine, you could go less rear toe, half what you have now or even down to zero, but where you are now is likely OK...

Thanks.. I'm thinking to -1.5 front , -1.5~-1.3 rear.

Do I need to consider lowering spring for this alignment spec?

Like.. ideal alignment spec can be different if I have lowereing spring?

I have Eibach prokits now

As stated before, you can leave rear camber alone IMO...

no.

IMO "ideal" alignment spec is going to be a fairly broad range as far as camber is concerned. Being lowered will naturally give you a smidge more camber in the front and quite a bit more in back, IMO that's fine...